Gareth Blackstock

I have just uploaded the final edit of my film "Eve's Song", although there are a couple of minor things yet to fix, It is ready to start having the sound and dialogue added. I would be interested in what comments people might have, as always comments are handy as a way of thinking harder about why I have done things a particular way. Hopefully the film is interesting enough to be watched for the full 25 minutes. Not exactly a short film as I intended, but not too bad for less the $2500. Cheers, Gareth

I do not know of specific web pages where you might get information, either do a search or visit this page, http://mishkin.yolasite.com/international-super8.php And follow the links to various sites in the right hand column. There are hundreds of information sources out there, this forum included. Best way to go aboout it is to buy some film, reversal, and shoot. Set the exposure to auto, it's on the side of the camera, and see how you go. Meanwhile, do lots of reading. good luck, Gareth

Hello, I think you have a great camera for one, I have used my CM400 many times. The images will be quite sharp as the camera uses a 150 degree shutter, whereas cameras that use 185 and up shutters I feel give a slightly fuzzy image. But these results will vary greatly depending on light, lens, film, et all. The camera should run happily without film with little risk of damage. To see if it the shutter is working, open the film door, point the camera at a bright light, pull the trigger, and try to look at the light from inside the film compartment, if you can see the bright light flickering then the shutter is working. The camera works! The exposure setting on the side of the camera, in auto mode, should move as you point the camera at different strengths of light. For most uses leaving it on auto is fine, but if you point the camera from bright to dark with auto on, you will notice a poor transition when you watch the result on a projector. good luck. Gareth

Thanks for the feedback, I am quite happy with the interior shots, we used 2 1000watt work lamps without barn doors. I wanted to get a good hard light to simulate a hot sun outside. For the film I decided to stick with 100D throughout, and compensate with harder brighter with the low asa indoors. One thing I am very happy with is the lantern, I re-wired a 500watt bulb into the body, and it worked really well I reckon. cheers

I have just uploaded a 10 minute version of the film "Eve's Song". We finished shooting around four months ago in the north of Victoria, Australia. The film was shot entirely on Super8 100D silent film. Dialogue, thankfully little of it, is yet to be added, as is the sound track. The full version is 26 minutes, and will be cut down to around 15 minutes for entry into short film festivals. (possibly shorter) The film was shot using a Canon 1218 and canon 814. The 10 minute version can be seen via: Individual frames can be seen via: http://mishkin.yolasite.com/eves-song.php I hope people will have a look and let me know what they think, positive input is always a good place to start.. ;) I think 100D is a great film, sharp will awesome colour rendition, I hope it lasts a long time.

I had a similar problem, and discovered replacement bulbs from lighting specialists were very expensive. Then I remembered that many motorcycles are 6v, so for around $2.40 I purchased the correct wattage bulb from a motorcycle shop. it has worked great for the last three years! try doing that, cheers.

I am in the midst of editing my film "Eve's Song" and thought to upload to youtube a short selection of clips from the film. I used 100D through out and am very happy with the colours and grain levels. It is a great stock! Remember the compression of youtube does no favours. So far the film is looking to be 27 minutes long, so not really a short film, but I will be editing a version that is closer to 8 minutes. In a roundabout way, the finished product will be maybe 35 minutes, but the gag reel(shot on MiniDV) is an hour and probably more interesting.....maybe I will not let people see that.. http://mishkin.yolasite.com/eves-song.php

I have shot a little sound with super8, and found it to be pretty good with the right preparation, although I never shot any sequence for longer than 20 seconds, the synch drifted a lot after that point. have a look at this webpage, http://mishkin.yolasite.com/sound-recording.php it might be helpful concerning sound recording. I use a Mini Disc, which is great! most people shy away from using Mini disc because it uses compression, but apparently the only sounds that are compressed are those too high or low in the frequency for the human ear, therefore not affecting the recorded track's quality. I may be wrong in this, but it is what I have been told. I made up a blimp for my super8 camera, and it is excellent, barely a noise. And it was cheap, built from easily available materials. (it however does look like a camera from the early 1920's) below is a link to the blimp I built. http://mishpics.yolasite.com/super8-blimp-designs.php When you have recorded your tracks, and you do hear some camera in the background, you can download one of the many free sound programs off the net, and remove much of the offending noise, it is imperfect though. good luck, and have fun. cheers

I have to say, this is by far one of the most interesting conversations I have had on a forum in a long time, a pity it is over pointless stuff. in reply to your ill researched, ill thought out remarks: "Needles" probably will not contact you, you seem to be the type of person who offers more critism than help, despite your cache of sound film. I hope this thread has not stung him into thinking all super8 shooters are opinionated, over bearing idiots. Also, who are you to judge who will and will not make a positive contribution? What is your contribution? What have you done? Will people remember your contributions? Or will they remember you as a cuastic, and angry person? get a life, you git.

After reading david savetsky's diatribe I thought that this discussion had to be a joke, so I looked up his previous postings and discovered that all he ever contributes to discussions is that he has film for sale, usually in a very condescending manner. I have come across this type of person many times, they usually sit at the back of any discussion, only ever coming forward to deliver their words of wisdom in a way that puts everyone else in the discussion, down, and then gets angry when people do not fall prostrate at his feet, such is the weight of his knowledge. I too can safely say that in the past twenty five years I have come across people who would likely know more than you, and yet be approachable, and therefore impart much of their knowledge to keen listeners. Usually those who know as much as you, are humbled in their demeanor because they realise a person never stops learning. That is why my occupation is listed as "student" People come to forums for many reasons, some to ask basic questions, some to challenge current opinions, some to impart knowledge, and some to keep up with whats happening. If you have no intention of posting anything other than advertising for your own film stocks, why not just send a private email, instead of using the opportunity to put someone's opinion down? Unfortunately I have become the type of "poster" I loathe, taking over a thread to argue a point. But sometimes the arrogance and rudeness of people like you deserves a reply. Sorry to "Needles", but there is much info on the web concerning shooting with sound. Opinions and attitudes like David's intimidate people who think they know less and would look a fool if they posted a reply contrary to yours. When often they know more because they are open to ideas contrary to their own. David, Take your 35 years of experience with a teaspoon of maturity, and grow the bloody hell up!

3.my...the suggetions you make are more expensive and more time consuming. any way it seems you are part of the problem. How are these suggestions part of the problem? If you have a better system, stop being deliberately evasive, and offer an opinion. If you did not intend to do so, why not send the origional posting a private message? rather than offer a decent solution you make suggestions which are labor intensive telecine and post sync when that is all eliminated with sound film to begin with. How will telecine be avoided with sound film? you try to paint a negative picture by avoiding the goal which the original post tried to achieve i.e make a sound movie.anyway what can one expect from donn under The suggestions offered were quite viable alternatives, whereas you have offered none. Also, New Zealand is NOT "donn under", AUSTRALIA is "down under", and people of both countries take great exception to ignorant gits who get that bit wrong. cheers

Why not try using a mini disc recorder? they are cheap and record digitally. Although it may be difficult to synch up the sound with the footage, but considering most cameras on fresh batteries are a little faster on 24fps, if you shoot a dialogue scene for say only 20 to 30 seconds, synching will be easier. I built myself a blimp that was near 100% sound proof. http://mishpics.yolasite.com/super8-blimp-designs.php http://mishkin.yolasite.com/sound-recording.php I think mini disc recorders are the ideal solution to small budget filming, records CD quality, light, cheap to buy, and runs on AA batteries. can you ask for more? cheers

Hello, I have not come across many Super8 camera repairers, but I have two links for you: http://www.cameracheckpoint.com.au/html/8mm-movie.html http://www.duallcamera.com/ If you are confident, there are a couple of websites that cover D.I.Y repairs: canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com http://www.nakanocam.com/index.html Although, try shooting a roll as a test, some cartridges are bad(rarely) Good luck, and if you find a good repairer please let us know, cheers

I know you are not the one advocating personal repairs, I suggested that as you had a greater interest in cameras being repaired professionally, then maybe you should compile a list of businesses that carry out such repairs. And I can understand the disappointment of buying a camera to discover it does not work, but then surely it would have been advertised as "not working", and if you buy it in that state, you are taking your chances, that is why they are usually cheaper. You make a fair point of suggesting repair shops next to "do it yourself" tips, but I will not be researching such shops, as from an Australian perspective, the costs of postage would negate the value of the camera. If you have such a list, pass it on and I will put it on the website, but it will be without a "warning", as I beleive it is perfectly reasonable for people to repair their own equipment, and I think that level of independence should be encouraged. If you carefully lubed at least one of your cameras, you would be able to shoot again with them, servicing can be expensive. cheers

well I have purchased quite a few cameras that were not working, and with some simple fixes, I was able to get them working again. So that's one junked nizo to my five repaired, good enough odds I think for people to attempt simple repairs on their own defunct cameras. http://canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com/ Have an actual look at the website, you will discover that I do not use a soldering iron, nor do I remove circuitry. Merely removing covers and cleaning can hardly be considered intence surgery. For a person who followed my examples carefully to completly bugger their camera is more the fault of their doing a step wrong, than my examples. And I did, a few years back, find someone who STILL FIXED cameras, it cost me $140 to be told the camera was a dead one, and it came back with a cracked casing. Also, as I live in Australia I was not going to send a $100 camera overseas for repair. However, I have listed a local repairer on this site: http://mishkin.yolasite.com/australian-super8.php Obviously not the one I had previous experience with. And in response to your last comment, as you find home repair to be detrimental and risky, why not compile your own list of repairers? I am sure it would be quite handy.

Hello, I am encouraging people to have a go at fixing their defunct cameras to help them shoot some film through it. it would seem a shame for a camera to rot in the closet simply due to corroded battery contacts, or some other simple fix. And if they ruin the camera for good trying to repair it? no loss, it is not as though the thing was running perfectly before hand. And, if you look at the website, I give lots of warnings and tips on the care that should be taken. I always encourage people to have a go repairing things for themselves, two reasons: the money they save, and the fact that they are potentially depriving a rip off merchant of hard earned money. cheers

G'day, I have just updated my site to include some details on repairing the Canon 1218 camera, as well as the 814 and 1014. http://canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com/ I have also updated my main site concerning details of Super8 stock purchase, process and transfer in Australia and New Zealand. http://mishkin.yolasite.com/ I hope the links are handy, cheers

Hello, I faced the same problem when I wanted to shoot super8 with a recording device. Most people said a thick blanket would suffice, but as I had time, I built my own, and I was amazed that it blocked almost all sound! I made up a little website attempting to deal with sound recording with super8 for the budget restricted, it is at: http://mishkin.yolasite.com/sound-recording.php I also made up a page showing pics of the blimp I made, total cost around $50. Depending on the mic you use, and distance, this camera/blimp set up is perfectly silent. http://mishpics.yolasite.com/super8-blimp-designs.php good luck!

A really good point has been raised concerning the lights, they get very hot! use a centrally located power board so all lights can be switched off between takes. I cannot stress enough that your work lights have either glass or wire covers over the bulbs, I have seen a blown one, and it looked like some one had poked a toothpick through molten glass! Also watch out for wall paper, it will get scorched very easily. If anyone does the umbrella thing, you have to use heat proof paint as used for car engines, and with everything, do not put it too close to the light. Purchase a fire extinguisher, a small one, just in case. reason being: a friend followed my instructions on making me a reflective beach umbrella while i was shooting, he failed to buy the right paint, suffice to say, once dried we set it up, and within 7 minutes or so it turned into a giant fireball, luckily I had an extinguisher! If you have trouble setting your F-stop, just set it to 5.6, but be very sure you only shoot what is well lit, to get an idea of what the tri-x might receive light wise, put on some very dark cheap sunglasses, what you can see, so to the camera. I realise this might cause a lot of consternation from other forum visitors, but at the least, it gives a person a good understanding of where the shadows begin. Also, it will only really work with tri-x, indoors, under lights. And, yes, I have used this method with good results. Good luck, and remember to shoot 18fps, and 24fps if panning quickly. cheers

I have shot tri-x at night and it turned out very well. I used two 500watt tungstan work lamps, one for the back drop or back wall, and one bounced off the inside of a beach umbrella painted with chrome heat paint, or the ceiling. even your movie light will be sufficient as long as it is close to the person, it will be grainy too. make sure your light has either a glass shield or wire over the filiament in case it blows, never handle the filiament, or bulb with your hands, use a clean cotton rag or gloves. the smoking is probably dust burning. using reflectors is a good way to go to get hard lighting over a broad area, just glue tin foil, or aluminium foil onto a large piece of cardboard(a broken down moving box), if that is too hard a light, paint it white. while using one light has many limitations, bounce light of surfaces to make up for it, or buy another work light. good luck www.mishkin.yolasite.com

Welcome to shooting super8, I hope you find it to be a great format. concerning cameras, there are so many available in Australia! Chinons are good, Yashica are very reliable, most Canons are good, reliable, but high end models can be too expensive! Sankyo does a great camera, reliable! Whatever camera you get, keep it cheap until you know what you want to do. Make sure it can shoot 18fps and 24fps. Make sure it runs! If buying off ebay, ask them to put some AA batteries in it, otherwise they will say they "are selling it for another person, therefore don't know if it works" Putting batteries in the camera is not testing it. 100D film is fantastic for colours and low on grain. E64 is a grainier film, but more lifelike colours. Plus-x and Tri-x are great films too. I made up a website awhile ago just for Super8 users in Australia, you might find some of the links handy. www.mishkin.yolasite.com goodluck Gareth

hello, I read your post, the website below might be helpful. If you feel adventurous you could take it apart yourself, or try finding a repair shop. goodluck http://canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com/ cheers

Hello all. I got around to replacing the lens on my canon 814. Now she is ready to shoot to see how the repairs have gone. The 1014 is still a work in progress. http://canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com/ As before, feedback is welcome, but i hope others can make use of the pictures. Soon i will put the pictures into a powerpoint that can be downloaded for easier off line viewing. cheers

G'day. It was suggested I make up some pdf's that people can download from the site. I uploaded two powerpoint presentations, the files are smaller, less than 1mb each, and they are not protected so people can enlarge the pictures if they need to. I hope people can download and place them on other websites so they might stay online for a long time. http://canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com/ cheers, Gareth

G'day. Well I figured as the camera was dead, instead of it being an expensive paperweight, i would give it a go. The process worked when i repaired a 1218 using the same methods... luckily all went well, the camera works now, just have to replace the lens, will let you know how that goes. cheers