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Gareth Blackstock

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  • Occupation
    Other
  • Location
    Australia
  • My Gear
    Pentaflex 16, Cinema Products 16R, Krasnogorsk K-3, Bell & Howell 240, Canon 814,1218, Pathe webo 16mm

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.mishkin.yolasite.com/, http://canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com/

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  1. Years ago i shot some very nice images with my K3, i used an asahi pentax super takumar 50mm M42 mount. Look around the net, tons of nice lenses M42 and many old russian ones too. The original K3 zoom lenses are pretty respectable..
  2. Hello, i reckon that if you film in a way that is an effective work around, then you may be happy with the results. Shoot for 20 sec at a time, short conversation, easier to synch later. Avoid long shots. Use cardiod mic, or lapel, mics that do not pick up everything are best. Experiment with sound deadening products, i included a link of the blimp i made years ago http://www.mishkin.yolasite.com/super8-camera-blimp.php There are many ingenious work arounds that film makers have used since the early days... just takes alot more effort...
  3. ah, thanks for putting that in, I had forgotten that very important bit of info..... it has been awhile... so I suppose unless there is some DS-8 film around, a reloadable cart is not as sought after as I thought.. my bad, Gareth
  4. While looking around for old camera gear, i came across a reputable seller in Ukraine selling KS carts, old stock. I cannot remember the reputation of re-loadable carts.... Be cool to buy some 16mm stock, buy one of those old 16mm film splitters and reload your own carts with some alternative stocks, or shoot some nice expired 16mm stock. https://www.ebay.com/itm/374003608343?hash=item57145a2b17:g:ba4AAOSwFZtgQURz
  5. Thanks for the feedback guys. I am pretty confident the image seen in the viewfinder will be replicated onto the film. For a couple of reasons: As I am getting old and wear glasses now, I often rely on measuring tape to ensure my eyesight is not letting me down, even though I set my diopter to my eyes, I find myself relying on measuring distance and less on my eyes. Also, as the layer of spray paint is the same as the original layer of silver paint, there should (in my limited knowledge of opticals laws) virtually no difference in the magnification of the image. If there were imperfections in the spray paint, perhaps tiny puddles or craters, then yes the image would skew I think. it is a good point about shooting footage before a big shoot, or with a camera with unknown history, I am thinking the common practice Eric is noting may relate to scratch tests, lens collimation, functions of the camera all working, tight spots in loading or magazines with light leaks, etc. Perhaps some early film rental houses were fast and loose with maintenance to preserve profits in a tight time and it became film industry 'lore' to check cameras? I am hoping that people reading this might dig out those buggered corroded viewfinders and have a go repairing the silvering... and perhaps get a camera happily running again... Thanks guys..
  6. It is unfortunate when a seller misrepresents their items or even worse, uses distance as an excuse to blithely ignore decency, ie refunding money or items. I have been buying from sellers in Russia, Ukraine, and a few other old Russian states for a while and I have been pretty happy with the results. I have found that as long as one clarifies what one needs, ask questions, and be forgiving of google translations, then most of the sellers are good to deal with. One thing I have learnt from purchasing online, do not buy camera equipment from humid /tropical areas unless you can see high quality photos.... I have found oxidisation, fungus, and heavy corrosion on items that have not been scrupulously looked after.
  7. Now, they say the proof of the pudding is in the eating, so the below image is a picture from a smart phone looking through the viewfinder. I tried to light the scene to best portray the result, and I think the image speaks for itself, clearly, rust-oleum "mirror finish" goes a very long way to repairing corroded silvering in prisms that are used in viewfinders. As a note, I imagine there are numerous methods of replacing silvering from the back of mirrors, and perhaps those processes last longer and may offer a more professional result. However, such methods may require the sort of expertise that is not common these days, or require expensive ingredients, or require specialised glazing skills. Perhaps in the 80's and 90's when re-silvering was commonly offered by businesses, their services were cheaper and a better alternative to what I have done. Well that was then, and these days I think most people using old technology like cine cameras are not keen on spending large amounts of money on them unless they are making money with them. Doing this has saved me from purchasing a replacement viewfinder for around USD$200.
  8. In the above image you can see the spray paint repair in the left prism, it is a slightly lighter coloured silver. The prism on the right is a different angle, and shows a very nice match. The below image is an attempt to show the quality of the reflection compared to looking directly at the writing. To the undressed eye the reflection looks pretty good, a little imperfection can still be seen.
  9. Well, time to report back with the results: Originally the issue is that the silver paint from the rear of the viewfinder prisms wears away after a number of years largely rendering the viewfinder useless. After getting the prisms out as per the above simple method, I found that the adhesive round pad placed there by Cinema Products causes the silver paint to corrode, right in the middle of the prism. I experimented with silver cellophane which appeared fine, but once the viewfinder was reassembled, the tiniest imperfections in the foil surface were magnified and therefore blurred the image seen in the viewfinder. So that didn't work. Next I tried rust-oleum "mirror finish" I have seen a few youtube videos of the results and was impressed enough to buy a can and try it myself. While the prisms are very hard to replace, or simply non-existent as spare parts, I considered using spray paint as suitable as it would not damage the surface as nail polish remover is the easiest paint remover. So, I set up a rig to hold the prisms and expose only the side I wanted painted, and after applying the spray paint, a minimum of 5 very thin coats, and around a minute between each, perhaps sooner on a warmer day, I was very impressed with the result. I considered that while the paint was drying the result was impressive, however, I wanted to wait until I could put the prisms back under magnification in the viewfinder before I got excited with the results. During re-assembly of the prisms I remembered one youtube video suggesting that even when dry, not to touch the paint as it will be stained with a finger print and require the spray paint to be removed and re-applied. So, after re-assembly of the viewfinder I was very happy with the image in the viewfinder, to the extent that I struggled to notice ANY difference between the factory coating and the spray paint I had applied. I have attached pictures to attempt to show the final result. I firmly believe that using this spray paint to replace mirror silvering that has corroded is a great solution to an otherwise expensive repair, or even more expensive replacement of hard to find viewfinders.
  10. I am always willing to try non-destructive solutions to the problems I come across, and if the results are not useable, then simply using a mild solution to remove paint is hardly great effort. I think scraping paint off a glass prism is likely to do far more damage than what i am attempting.. Admittedly, going to such lengths on a camera that is potentially a few chemical processes away from oxidising itself into a great display piece seems over doing it, but then time and effort expended is relative to what else I could be doing... I have been stuck in my house for 3 weeks now and am getting over covid myself, so I've plenty of time. I've already souped up all my son's remote control cars, am rust proofing and re-painting a 40 year old car trailer, I put a mezzanine in the rabbit hutch, and I am a few days away from braiding the dog.... So if the paint doesn't work I'll simply drop it off at the glazier, they will do the job, could be around $120 give or take.... as gathering aluminium and silver salts would be difficult in a small country town..
  11. Hello, Well i did some research, seems diy telescope enthusiasts grind their own mirrors and send them away to get coated, quite a process.... and seems expensive, not the actual coating, but setting machinery, couriers, subcontracting it to another business, etc is very expensive. More than i paid for the camera... i found a glazier who could do it for $80 just to get started, a few weeks wait, and most likely cost more. Soooo... i will try some rust-oleum mirror finish, the results from sceptical consumers is encouraging... https://www.pinterest.com.au/pin/527836018827709534/ And if the images in the viewfinder are still not useable, then off to the glazier i go. It will be cool if it works though, the paint may help keep cameras in use for a little longer... Ill keep you posted, Gareth
  12. Hello, Thanks for the tip, no harm in emailing them... do you have experience in getting prisms recoated from edmunds optics? I will email and see if its a service they offer. So far with other businesses the result has been at least a few hundred for the job, or the job is too small and not worth the hassle... I'll check edmunds though. Thanks, Gareth
  13. I figured I would add to this topic my own adventure into repairing a dodgy CP viewfinder. Mine was pretty bad, unusable. After trying many methods, including a big stick, I tried the persuasive approach... nail polish remover. Worked a treat. After removing the glass I discovered that mine too needed re-silvering. I will be trying some Rust-oleum mirror effect spray paint in the coming days to see if I can repair my viewfinder.... they are pretty expensive second hand... If I succeed I will add the results... I also emailed Jay to see how he faired with his attempt..
  14. Here is the link to a User Guide for the Kinor 16 CX. There are some things in it that are not covered in the previously posted manuals, some info comes from the internet, and some comes from using the camera myself. Either way I hope it is useful to someone, and I needed something to do while "locked down" https://www.mediafire.com/file/eugmxtqibcoowl0/Using_the_Kinor_16_CX-2M.pdf/file As always, if I have missed something, please send a PM and I can get onto it, Gareth
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