Jim Train

Really? You widened it in the camera itself? I haven't got my camera to hand but I am not sure how I would feel about doing it in the camera and I believe the 1014 has a plastic gate so I am not sure if that would make matters worse or better. When you say you used deburring do you mean you sanded it down or used a cloth afterwards? I am not entirely sure what you mean. I have never heard of anyone widening the viewfinder, that is interesting, it would be very helpful if I could do so. The instructions you uploaded on dismantling the camera are great. Jim

Hello, At the beginning of last week I decided to finally take the plunge and widen the gate of my Canon 1014 but I got nervous and stopped as I didn't feel that I had gained sufficient advice and info to do the job properly. Has anyone here widened the gate themselves and if so would they mind passing on the information as to how to do it correctly? Thank you kindly for your time, Jim

Thanks guys, will keep that in mind in future.

A bit of a no-brainer for many here I'm sure but the truth is that I am not sure if it is okay to shoot film straight out of the fridge - not the freezer! Kids were playing the other day, something hilarious happened and I grabbed a cart from the fridge then thought, "hmmm.. I wonder if I need the make any exposure compensation for cold film" then thought "hmmm... I haven't a clue." Just shot the film as is. Thank you

Thanks Rafael, that puts my mind at ease and so I will ship the film off to be processed and transferred.

I was trying out some macro filming of my daughter asleep and found myself having to use the focal length ring rather than the focusing ring to get the shots in focus, is that the correct method? It is my first time using the Nizo Pro to shoot in macro and I am not sure if I have just film 3 minutes of blur. When adjusting the focal length ring I could get her sharp in the frame but the (distance) focusing ring seemed to have no effect whatsoever. Thank you

My understanding is that when the shutter is held open for the time lapse function on say... 6fps, the film advance rate combined for all 6 frames during the second equates to somewhere close to 2/8's of a second which is why Nizo have stated that in intervalometer mode a setting of 6fps gives a shutter speed of 1/8. I thought that made sense but made I am wrong in my assumption that the film advance per second in this example would add up to 2/8's. For judging correct exposures a shutter speed of 1/10 ro 1/8 won't make a catastrophic difference and so I plan on shooting some tests with different exposure levels to try to suss out once and for all what the likely shutter speed rate are. I will report back once I have the transfer.

Lord, that sounds complicated! I am approaching 60 and only started using editing software last year so I am somewhat daunted but the undertaking to transfer 18fps footage. Will the telecine company be able to assist in this or should I just perhaps transfer the footage as 24fps? I didn't realize it was so complicated to get 18fps footage into an editing programme.

Interested in this as well. Anyone have anything to offer on the subject? I have several family films shot at 18fps that I would like to have transferred and I plan on editing them using Premiere Pro, am I doomed?

Interested in this as well. Anyone have anything to offer on the subject? I have several family films shot at 18fps that I would like to have transferred and I plan on editing them using Premiere Pro, am I doomed?

Thank you for all your help!

Thanks! Have a family party coming up so am going to shot a cart of time lapse tests. Out of curiosity what happens if you shot in Auto B mode or using the intervalometer mode with the shutter NOT in the fully open position? Have you ever done this intentionally or by accident?

To get an idea of what I am referring to concerning shutter speeds and time lapse, you can go to the following Wikipedia Time Lapse explanation and scroll down to the part about "Short Exposure Vs Long Exposure Time Lapse." Here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Time-lapse

See I still don't get this. I have just had another read of the manual and if the shutter is to remain open for the entire time lapse (aside from when the frame advances) that must surely means that any footage shot using a slow frame rate of 1 or a few frames per minute would HAVE TO be shot in low light otherwise the footage would be completely overexposed. I mean if you are shooting at 1 fpm seemingly the shutter stays open for 1 minute for each exposed frame, for 2 fpm the shutter stays open for 30 seconds for each exposed frame etc... meaning that when in the (non Auto B) intervalometer mode, you would be better off selecting an aperture yourself that would be suitable. For example, if I wanted to shoot a time lapse at 2 fpm I would need to make sure that I use a very small aperture in moderate to bright conditions otherwise the film will be totally overexposed at a shutter speed of essentially 30 seconds for each shot. Do you get what I am saying? I thought in the inter mode the exposure would always be spot on but now am not sure at all. Has anyone reading this ever shot a time lase of 1 or a few frames per minute in moderate light and if so how did the footage look?

The frames per minute does speed up and slow down on my camera as I turn the dial i.e. the clicking of the shutter changes speed fine. My issue is that, when you look through the opened film door or listen to the shutter, it is apparent that the length of time the shutter stays open for does not change. You can see that through the film gate that the shutter seems to open and close for the same amount of time when it is set to 1fpm or 6fps. Given what the manual says, when looking through the film gate you should see the shutter stay open for 1 minute when set to 1fpm but that is not the case on my camera. Like I said, all of this leads me to believe that on intervalometer mode, the shutter speed is set and does not vary. The only thing I can think is that the shutter speed change only kicks in when the camera is loaded with film but if that was the case the aperture needle should move when you turn the intervalometer dial to different settings as you would obviously need a much, much smaller aperture if you were letting in anywhere near 1 minutes worth of light (in most situations.)