Jim Train

Really? You widened it in the camera itself? I haven't got my camera to hand but I am not sure how I would feel about doing it in the camera and I believe the 1014 has a plastic gate so I am not sure if that would make matters worse or better. When you say you used deburring do you mean you sanded it down or used a cloth afterwards? I am not entirely sure what you mean. I have never heard of anyone widening the viewfinder, that is interesting, it would be very helpful if I could do so. The instructions you uploaded on dismantling the camera are great. Jim

Hello, At the beginning of last week I decided to finally take the plunge and widen the gate of my Canon 1014 but I got nervous and stopped as I didn't feel that I had gained sufficient advice and info to do the job properly. Has anyone here widened the gate themselves and if so would they mind passing on the information as to how to do it correctly? Thank you kindly for your time, Jim

Thanks guys, will keep that in mind in future.

A bit of a no-brainer for many here I'm sure but the truth is that I am not sure if it is okay to shoot film straight out of the fridge - not the freezer! Kids were playing the other day, something hilarious happened and I grabbed a cart from the fridge then thought, "hmmm.. I wonder if I need the make any exposure compensation for cold film" then thought "hmmm... I haven't a clue." Just shot the film as is. Thank you

Thanks Rafael, that puts my mind at ease and so I will ship the film off to be processed and transferred.

I was trying out some macro filming of my daughter asleep and found myself having to use the focal length ring rather than the focusing ring to get the shots in focus, is that the correct method? It is my first time using the Nizo Pro to shoot in macro and I am not sure if I have just film 3 minutes of blur. When adjusting the focal length ring I could get her sharp in the frame but the (distance) focusing ring seemed to have no effect whatsoever. Thank you

My understanding is that when the shutter is held open for the time lapse function on say... 6fps, the film advance rate combined for all 6 frames during the second equates to somewhere close to 2/8's of a second which is why Nizo have stated that in intervalometer mode a setting of 6fps gives a shutter speed of 1/8. I thought that made sense but made I am wrong in my assumption that the film advance per second in this example would add up to 2/8's. For judging correct exposures a shutter speed of 1/10 ro 1/8 won't make a catastrophic difference and so I plan on shooting some tests with different exposure levels to try to suss out once and for all what the likely shutter speed rate are. I will report back once I have the transfer.

Lord, that sounds complicated! I am approaching 60 and only started using editing software last year so I am somewhat daunted but the undertaking to transfer 18fps footage. Will the telecine company be able to assist in this or should I just perhaps transfer the footage as 24fps? I didn't realize it was so complicated to get 18fps footage into an editing programme.

Interested in this as well. Anyone have anything to offer on the subject? I have several family films shot at 18fps that I would like to have transferred and I plan on editing them using Premiere Pro, am I doomed?

Interested in this as well. Anyone have anything to offer on the subject? I have several family films shot at 18fps that I would like to have transferred and I plan on editing them using Premiere Pro, am I doomed?

Thank you for all your help!

Thanks! Have a family party coming up so am going to shot a cart of time lapse tests. Out of curiosity what happens if you shot in Auto B mode or using the intervalometer mode with the shutter NOT in the fully open position? Have you ever done this intentionally or by accident?

To get an idea of what I am referring to concerning shutter speeds and time lapse, you can go to the following Wikipedia Time Lapse explanation and scroll down to the part about "Short Exposure Vs Long Exposure Time Lapse." Here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Time-lapse

See I still don't get this. I have just had another read of the manual and if the shutter is to remain open for the entire time lapse (aside from when the frame advances) that must surely means that any footage shot using a slow frame rate of 1 or a few frames per minute would HAVE TO be shot in low light otherwise the footage would be completely overexposed. I mean if you are shooting at 1 fpm seemingly the shutter stays open for 1 minute for each exposed frame, for 2 fpm the shutter stays open for 30 seconds for each exposed frame etc... meaning that when in the (non Auto B) intervalometer mode, you would be better off selecting an aperture yourself that would be suitable. For example, if I wanted to shoot a time lapse at 2 fpm I would need to make sure that I use a very small aperture in moderate to bright conditions otherwise the film will be totally overexposed at a shutter speed of essentially 30 seconds for each shot. Do you get what I am saying? I thought in the inter mode the exposure would always be spot on but now am not sure at all. Has anyone reading this ever shot a time lase of 1 or a few frames per minute in moderate light and if so how did the footage look?

The frames per minute does speed up and slow down on my camera as I turn the dial i.e. the clicking of the shutter changes speed fine. My issue is that, when you look through the opened film door or listen to the shutter, it is apparent that the length of time the shutter stays open for does not change. You can see that through the film gate that the shutter seems to open and close for the same amount of time when it is set to 1fpm or 6fps. Given what the manual says, when looking through the film gate you should see the shutter stay open for 1 minute when set to 1fpm but that is not the case on my camera. Like I said, all of this leads me to believe that on intervalometer mode, the shutter speed is set and does not vary. The only thing I can think is that the shutter speed change only kicks in when the camera is loaded with film but if that was the case the aperture needle should move when you turn the intervalometer dial to different settings as you would obviously need a much, much smaller aperture if you were letting in anywhere near 1 minutes worth of light (in most situations.)

I am struggling to get my head around my Nizo Pro's time lapse function in regard to shutter speeds and how it detects the light levels. In the manual it says that the intervalometer has settings from ranging from 6fps to 1fpm and that at 6fps the shutter speed is 1/8 and at 1fpm the shutter speed is 1 minute. However, when I turn the intervalometer dial the aperture reading doesn't vary and when I open the film compartment and shoot a few frames, the shutter opens and closes for the same duration regardless of where the intervalometer dial is; the number of frames taken changes fine but the shutter speed appears to remain constant. I am really confused by this and can't think where I am going wrong. I had wanted to shoot a 30 minute sequence using the intervalometer in a room where a reading of 1/4 would be spot on but the camera aperture reading given when in inter mode is the same as when in normal auto 18fps mode which to my mind means that the shutter speed in inter mode is actually 1/40 (the same as 18fps auto mode.) I can't use the Auto Bulb mode for this sequence as the light level in the room would be too high and the Auto B would have run through the entire cart within a matter of minutes. Am I getting something wrong concerning the intervalomter shutter speeds? This has been driving me up the wall all week! Thank you for your time

Thank you for your reply Justin, it is appreciated. I am still unclear about a few things though. Once I have shot my footage I can choose to have the film telecined at 18fps or 24fps allowing for a choice in playback speed, is that correct? Will the 18fps option will give me a bit more film length albeit at a slower pace?. Also, if I shoot scenes in different light levels at night, how does that affect things? If I am shooting in a dark area where the camera is shooting at 1fps and the next scene is a bit brighter and comes in at 6fps, that means that darker scene will play back on the finished film with faster moving objects, is that correct? Finally, I believe that, with the Nizo, you are able to set your own intervals and exposure with the shutter open rather than using the Auto B function, how does this work and what is the benefit? Sorry for even more questions but I am really keen to get shooting but want to be clear before I spend the little money I have on film and transfer. Thank you, Jim

Hello, I have borrowed a Nizo Pro camera for a short shoot and would like to use the camera's Auto B mode to capture some slightly abstract footage. From my understanding, this function operates by keeping the shutter open for as long as is necessary to expose the image (for up to 1 minute) whilst shooting a time lapse sequence, is this correct? If that is the case, what would happen if I was to shoot footage with people moving (slowly) during the shot, would it be a complete mess or would I possibly be able to achieve some cool, abstract footage where people could still be picked out? Any advice on using this function would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I don't have a hood for my 1014 but need one asap, would the likes of the ones below be suitable? I am just worried about buying a different hood to the one that came with the camera in case I run the risk of vignetting. Is there anything else I need to be aware of? Thanks http://www.digital-cameras.com/xpp-b_w_67m...amp;amount=0.00 http://www.picstop.co.uk/Camera-Care-/Hama...-67mm/Feed_8093 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/67mm-Collapsable-WDE...1QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks, that's fantastic advice!

I'm not sure whether I should start a new thread for this as I can't seem to find it having been discussed elsewhere, apologies if I have missed it. I was considering modifying my 1014xls to shoot Super Duper 8 but am not ecstatic about the possibility of vignetting as over the next 12 months I will be doing a lot of shooting in low light conditions meaning that I will be shooting close to wide open a lot. I have been wondering about cropping the image in post (the material won't be projected) and was wondering whether anybody had any experience of this? Would it be possible to mask the viewfinder so that the image is closer to the final 16:9 image?

Hello, This is my first post, however I have been reading through many previous topics and have learned a lot of valuable information and been a bit overwhelmed at times with what is seemingly a mountain of knowledge that I will have to acquire over time. Anyway, I am about to shoot my first ever super8 stock and I'm a bit nervous about it. I have photographed for a while but am new to all of this. A local theatre company want me to shoot footage of their rehearsals and build up to the opening night of a new production that they are putting on. Most of the footage will be shot indoors in available light and so I am going to use either 200t or 500t. My first question is whether there is a big difference between shooting 500t as is or pushing the 200t by a stop? I'm not hugely concerned about grain as I want a raw look to the film but I really want good contrast and deep blacks if possible. Given that this is my first shoot and I have never used a super8 camera before I was going to shoot in auto exposure mode seeing as the lighting conditions will be quite straightforward - is this a bad idea? Also should I overexpose the film by a 1/3 of a stop as I have heard that this improves the image quality of these film stocks? The film will be telecined and edited using Adobe Premiere or something along those lines and so rather than use external filters (at times I want the material to look cold and sterile, other times warm and comfortable) I was just going to handle all of this in post, does that work well with super8? Finally are there any other big issues that I should consider before shooting? I have read through many posts and articles in books and feel that, given that the shooting environment will be quite safe in that it will mostly be normally lit rooms with people talking and acting within, as long as I don't do something stupid everything should be okay. Sorry the final question is whether about the fps - I won't be recording sound in camera so is there any reason to shoot in either 18fps or 24fps? The finished piece will be online and on a dvd. Thank you for your time, Jim