James Millward

Hi guys, I know someone who has some old (almost 30 years old!) VFX footage in 65mm He has three reels, and would like to transfer them to Bluray/dvd for viewing. Is there anyone that could do this? or recomend a company? He is in Texas I believe. Thanks guys James

Thanks for the reply John At that price, I may as well keep hold of it and shoot something in the summer. Thanks again James

Hi guys, im deciding whether its worth seelling or not? I bought it new two years ago with the inetention of shooting super 8, but i havent shot anything so far! So its unused, and comes with all the stuff (filters, box etc) All runs smoothly at different speeds and appature works fine with batts or on manual. If its not worth alot, ill keep it for when I do decide to try it out. What price do you think, im based in the UK?? thanks James

I have a Eumig Mark 610D which was my fathers from new. Its working well, but can only run upto 18fps. I want to shoot some 24fps stuff, and am wondering if you guys can reccomend solid projectors to look for (capable of 24fps)?? From what I understand, my 610D is a well respected projector. So should I get another Eumig? If so, what make to look for?? Thanks guys James

Many thanks for the replys. I am really interested in the technology that was used in the early days of CGI. What processing power created the shots we see in say the Abyss, T2? Were these Workstations along the lines of SGI or onyx? What were the specs of these machines? Is CGI today done on specialist workstations (im talking ILM Level), or are they just very high spec PC's Really interested i this guys James

I have wondered this for a while now. Presumably, the each cell of film has to be scanned like I would do with a photograph? If so, what res do they scan at? 2K if so, does that mean that when watching a film in the theatre, I am only seeing 2k? (not that not matters as such, jusy curious). Now, when the shot is complete, how is it transfered back to film? Is it printed, like you or I would print the photgraph in the earlier example? If so, what kind of machines do this? again 2K? Im also interested in how this was done in the early days of CGI (say T2 1991 ish). What res were they able to capure and print at in those days? Thanks guys James

I havent shot a roll yet, but there seems so many things that can go wrong with super8 shooting that I am thinking of getting my cam serviced before I even put a roll through. I have a wind up Kinoflex which I bought new (old stock) 2 years ago. Im wondering as it hasnt done any work since manufacture (say 93), im wondering if it should be serviced? I am also considering buying a canon 814xl or 1014 so might get them both looked at. So who would tyou reccomend in thr UK? I know of Seandeancameras. Also, what shoukd be checked ona serviced? Lube of gears? Correct running speeds (18/24 etc)? Lens collomation? Light meter/appature checked? What else guys?? Thanks James

Many, many thanks for the reply guys. I hadnt even considered the light loss associated with the VF. I will run some test soon, just trying to get a solid plan together so I dont waste film. Does anyone know the sutter angle on a windup kinoflex? A few sites have the shutter speed at 24fps as 1/48 BUT I have read elswhere that the shutter angle isnt 180. So how can it be 1/48th?? Lastly, which is preferable, slightly under exposed, or slightly over exposed?? im talking in terms of what could be done later in post to correct. Thanks again James

Just got my first light meter, which I will be using for super 8. The thought crossed my mind as to whether all f stop numbers were equal to each other across different formats? eg lets say I had Super8, 16mm and 35mm camera next to each other. All camera were using 100 asa film, and all had the same shutter angle/speed. I then took a reading at it said 2.8. Does then setting all the cams appatures to 2.8 mean the same exposure will be achieved on all the cams?? ie 2.8 on 16mm is the same as 2.8 on super 8, and is the same as 2.8 on a still camera (given the same asa/shutter etc). Thanks guys James

Lol, no I havent got money to burn. I would have beens eriously put out if I had had to bin it!! I just wanted to make sure that I knew what I was in for after processing. As I say, Im a complete beginner, so will probaly make alot of mistakes. I need to know which are my mistakes, and which are the films. Thanks guys James

Thanks for the replys guys. Im in the uk, so it hasnt been hot at all. So if its affected, it will come out red? Im new to film shooting, so I could make alot of mistakes. When I get my film back from processing I need to know if what im seeing is down to my error, or is as a result of knackered film. I will pop it in the fridge, and send just one for processing. If it comes back red, ill know its no good? Thanks again James

Hi, guys, I still havent got round to outting my first ever super 8 rolls through my cam. In fact it has been nearly seven months since I had my Eltachrome 64t delivered!! I dont know why I didnt, but i didnt store it in the fridge, so it has been in the house (and thus subject to all the fluctuations in temperature) since then. Should i throw it away nad re-order (costly mistake!), or will it be ok?? Thanks guys tbip2001

Just though, am I right in saying that when I put my 64t film into the cam I should make no adjustment to the cams settings? Instead, I input the film speed into the meter and that determines the correct apature to shoot at (in theory)?? How do I quantify the controls on my cam in terms of F stops values?? My Kinoflex/quarz only has 0 and +1/+2 -1/-2 If my meter throws up say F8, how does this equate to my cam?? Many thanks James

Many thanks for the reply. One thing I am confused about is the difference between setting the exposure of the camera to match the film speed and setting the apature for the scene you are shooting. On a 35mm slr lens you have focus adjustment and apature adjustment actually on the lens, AND I can set the camera for the correct film speed im using via a different knob. But on my super 8 Kinoflex/quarz I only have one knob which ranges form 0 to +1/+2 and -1/-2 Presumably this is the same as the apature control on a 35mm slr? Can someone explain the difference between settin the cam for the film stock, and adjusting the apature?? Thanks again James

Many thanks for the detailed explonation! It is very much appreciated, as I dont have an english manual. Ive posted a reply above, would you comment on it please? Your experience is invaluable to me. :) Many thanks again James

Thanks for the reply. I havent got batteries in for the meter because I was going to use manual exposure only. If I take the lens off, I can see the system you describe. In auto mode (obviously I have no baterries in so im not expecting it to work, the v shaped blades come in when the cam is upright and fall out the way when turnd on its side. Is this correct?? So when the batteries are in, and the cam set to auto, the blades should come fully in when exposed to bright light, and move out of the way when I point the cam into the dark?? HOWEVER, when I put the cam in manual mode, the blades come fully in, and do not move when I change the apature value manually (using the wheel on the side). Shouldnt it open and close as I turn the dial, even if there are no batteries?? Last question, I can see the blades move in an out from the right side of the cam BUT what is the black needle comming from the right of the cam?? This needle basically sits in between the 'V' of the iris blades and doesnt move at any time!! Many thanks again, let me know what you think. James

I Purchased a Quarz Kinoflex wind up cam from ebay maybe 12 months ago. It had never been used, and I have not used it until now. Im getting ready to put my first rolls of super 8 film ever through the cam, but before I waste my Ektachrome 64t there seems to be something odd about my kinoflex When I run the cam at low speed (9-12) and look into the gate, there is an obstruction over the inmage coming from the left hand side. Kind of like a thick needle with a blunt end. Sometimes its right in the middle, and sometimes its up or down a bit. Then after some messing, the image in the gate becomes very small (ie not filling the gate), its only filling a small circle in the centre of the gate. Ive run the cam very briefly at higher speed, and its the same. Is my cam broken?? If so, what is wrong and can it be fixed?? Many thanks Jim

Im looking for a low cost light meter to use with super8 and maybe later 16mm. I havent got a lot to spend, but I figure it will save me alot of wasted film if I can get one and learn how to use it correctly. Im looking at the sekonic Twinmate L-208 or the 398A Are these meters suitable for my use. The 208 is cheaper, so would like to go that route if the 398A isnt going to offer anything more (to me at least) Can either of the meters be set to 64 asa (ie for Ektachrome 64t) Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks James

Many thanks for taking the time to reply guys. It is much appreciated. I must confess, I am still a little confused, but I think im getting there. I will be shooting on reversal film (ie Ektachrome 64t) to begin with so it sounds like thre need for correct exposure is more detrimental. I cant afford to waste film, so i'm going get a light meter and run some tests. Can I ask, what test shots you shoot? I understand the idea of shooting 10 secs and 0 then 10 secs at +1, +2 etc to see the effect it has on the film in relation to what the meter has given me, BUT what CONDITIONS would you try the above with?? ie Bright sunny day Overcast day Dark afternoon Dark rainy afternoon Bright sunny day indoor Overcast day indoor no lights Etc etc?? Am I on the right track? There are so many different lighting conditions, and lux levels, where would you sytart if shooting test rolls?? Lastly, Does adding a filter to the lens, say when using tungsten film outdoors, change the asa of the film? Is it still 64asa?? Or do I need to change the setting on the light meter?? Many thanks again James

My dad put his first roll of super8 through his camera in 1967, and in 2008 im about to do the same!! Ive got some rolls of Ektachrome 64t coming, but what I dont want to do is waste them with aimless shoting. I want to learn to expose correctly and shoot some test footage on these test rolls under different lighting conditions. Ive read various things on light meteres but I must confess I am still confused. Have I got the folloeing correct: 1) I input the film speed in to the meter (ie 64 asa) 2) I take a reading (relfective or incident) 3) Push the button, and the meter will tell me the correct 'stop' value to shoot at?? I will be shooting on a quarz windup cam. does this work with 64t?? or doesnt it matter as long as I use an external light meter and follow the proceedure above?? What I dont understand aswell is how does the light meter know what is 'correct' exposure?? Lets say I shoot a bright sunny day and the meter says to shoot at f8 then I shoot a dark basement and the meter says to be wide open. WHat is the meter trying to do? Is it trying to provide the same illumination through to the film for both scenes? BUT what if im shooting a dark scene the chances are I want the basement to maintain its dark look (for atmospherics). If I expose at the reading the meter gave, wouldnt the basement scene appear too bright?? How does the meter know what is 'correct'?? Hope you can help guys, many thanks Jim