Dominik Muench

thank you, will give that a try tomorrow morning.

ahsooo, that explains it *g do you guys have a recommendation for how to get high quality screen caps from quicktime or avi files ?

yep that works, thank you :)

hi stephen, yes pal, i tried that too, the pixel stretching in photoshop works, and if i open the saved file it is in the right aspect ratio, however only in photoshop, if i open the image file in any other picture viewer its still 4:3 squeezed.

hi guys, i have a small problem with final cut, im trying to export some still frames from a projekt as jpegs, which works fine, however even though the projet is in 720x576 anamorphic or in 1024x576 widescreen (original footage is Super16mm), all the exported images are squeezed in 4:3 :/ what am i doing worng ? thanks for the help.

that would be interesting indeed. i know fuji has a list of feature films on their homepage that have been shot with...fuji stock :)

richard: as a rul eof thumb i learned....and thats what i did on all my previous productions, to overexpose by around 2/3 to 1 stop. i guess i didnt do it on that production because i allready shot most of the scenes WAA and we wanted a really dark look and i was scared that if i introduce more light into the scene i might ruin the look.

yep, that could be the problem, i think the source 4s go up to 2500W only

Michael: with the stage light i used, you were able to focus the edge of the beam and make it really sharp, no matter what the diameter of the beam was. the light had some sort of two lens system infront of the bulb which you could move back n forth.

here are three samples of lightrays created with that stage follower: http://www.hereticarts.com/blood1.jpg http://www.hereticarts.com/blood2.jpg http://www.hereticarts.com/blood3.jpg sorry for the lowres images, i captured them from a small preview quicktime file, but im sure you'll get the idea :)

i recently used that on a music video shoot, if you have budget restrictions and cant rent xenons. go to a stage lighting company and get yourself a spot follower or chaser. they have an adjustable spot size and a 2000W light gives you a lot of punch and a very defined ray of light. also, with a 2000W light you dont need an extra generator, you can run it of a normal 220V circuit. they also have those little flip in frames at the front where you can place different gels, so color temperature isnt too much of an issue. what i discovered was, that once we had our set smoked up for the light ray, the smoke reflected quite a lot of light and made the ambient light level on set rise a fair bit, i was surprised how bright it got.

interesting, thanks for that, so you would recommend shooting with daylight film ? or what would be best when shooting people in b&w ?

id be interested too....hmmmmm hawaii :)

i shot black and white reversal film (tri x) that was completely lit with sodium vapour lights, and it worked quite well. just be carefull with the flicker rates for certain framerates. just wondering and i hope this is not too stupid to ask, does color temperature matter when you shoot b&w or intend to modify your picture into b&w in telecine ? not really i would assume ?

so far ive only done telecine work too, and have no experience whatsoever with printing :/

is there by any chance a book about that topic, which you can recommend ? i feel that i need to understand this issue about negativ density and printing... much more.

david: good idea thanks, its much more convenient that way, and i surely would forget to compensate the 2/3 on every shot now and then. frank: i often used to think that, once i got my "main" exposure on the subject thats important, i dont have to worry about the rest so much and everythign will fall in place. but since the last few shoots i keep on balancing out different "light planes" to speak in ross lowells words :) but i guess i simply need much more practise with that.

what im confused about: david recommended to slightly overexpose by 2/3 of a stop, to have some "headroom", so this 2/3 over exposure should be on top of the highlights measurment right ? lets say im measuring two sides of a face, the shadow side has 2,8 and the bright side has 5,6, so i would expose for slightly under F4 ?

no, i have to admit that i hardly use a spotmeter, mostly ambient, in this case too.

thank you for all the help and recommendations. next time i certainly wanna do a test, but thats always a problem on those low budget shoots. as a general rule of thumb i learnd to slightly overexpose film , and slightly underexpose video. which i ve always done, i really dont know where i had my mind on that shoot :/

well i certainly learned an important lesson for my next shoot, thats for sure.

well, i hope the editor can do something with the footage, maybe i am too negative, usualy im very picky with my images so maybe im over reacting, i will show you guys a quicktime version in a week or so when its finished.

the mroe i think if ot it im sure i simply metered these scenes wrong. stephen: the blacks yould have been between 3-5 stops under thats right :/ the final cut needs to be on betacam.

i try n have a look at the negative later,dont ahve a light bench but a pair of gloves and a flashlight should do the job :) so you dont think i simply could have screwed up the metering ?

hi dominic, iu havent looked at the negative itself yet, i will try and do that this afternoon. whats dmin if you dont mind me asking ? the stock is deff eterna 500T, i ordered it directly by Fuji Kine Films Germany and i loaded it personaly out of the original can. i will check teh edge number this afternoon as well. no i didnt shoot a grayscale before the shoot. jim, ive got a digital SLR which i often use for previsualization, however this shoot was on such a tigh schedule that i simply didnt think of using it :/