Jean Maxim Desjardins

It is an option indeed. And then I would have to use a film stock like the Kodak 7205 or 7207. I would only have a finer look, and I don't have any money or power to rent any HMI, I will still have to gel my tungsten lights, and lost a lot of light anyway. Also, because of the reflex system and the angle of the Bolex's shutter I always have to compensate 2/3 of a stop. But in the end, if I have to choose daylight film, so be it, why not. To choose daylight balanced film is a much more obvious choice to me than to put an 85 on a tungsten balanced film, even twice the speed. My major concern is how to light it without having this flat look.

My question is about making something good with almost nothing. I'm a first year student in a University and I need to light this place with a basic tungsten 1K lights kit (three spots). It's shot in 16mm (Kodak Vision3 500t 7219). Three guys will be sitting on the floor against the wall and people will walk by as if it was a street (It does not look quite like a street, but it's part of the aesthetic). This is on the fist picture behind the water basin, on the second, on the right passage. I'm considering giving it an evening look by using the practical wall lights, in a sense that I should light it as the light was coming from them. It will be shot during the afternoon, but it's an indoor location with a large and high window ceiling. Also, both pictures are daylight balances at 5500k. I will have to use a 3/4 CTO in camera (Bolex H16 shutter 135degree). I also know that putting CTB on tungsten lights drastically cut 1 2/3 of a stop. I took some meter readings, and there is hardly 30 fc on the water pound, 20 fc on the wall. Any insight or suggestion on that?

I'm a student cinematographer, I use the Sekonic 398 as second light-meter. It's a great tool that will never let you down and I enjoy working with it. But I bought a Spectra-Cine Professional IV recently and it's seriously precise. It is also one of the few (I think) that still give you the illuminance reading in footcandle and lux. It also measures the average and/or contrast ratio in f-stops or footcandles. The good thing is that you can add a spot-meter accessory to it (don't know how good it is though). I can't say that I highly recommend it compared to others because I lack the experience, but a 40 years experienced DOP gave me the advise. Hope you like your new one!