andrew parrish

Cool Cams, Folks. I was looking at the anamorphic rigs, and notice that one of them was using the Mat box for support. Is it OK to add lens support stuff on to these rails? If so Yippee! I will be able to cut down the amount of crap I haul around, using the equipment I already got. Thanks, Andrew

Hi every body, What size peli case do you use for your h, and what equipment do you keep in it? I'm looking at a 1500 thanks, Andrew

Hey Guys, thanks for a very stimulating discussion: it really got me thinking about how the mechanic of the camera translate into film. Thanks again for all your responses. Cheers, Andrew

Interesting Chris. I don't mind playing Lewis to your Martin, so I will ask a potentially dumb question. Does this %17 equate to a 1/6 of a stop? If we factor in the disputed difference in shutter angle - 135 ( about 1/60th of a second ) and 144 ( about 1/64th of a second), and this %17, will this all add up to a 3rd of a stop or more? Did Bolex do this on purpose, just to make the numbers easier to use? I was suprised by how non-tech-ee the manual is, considering how complex the camera can be. You seem very passionate about the subject. Have you made a replacement chart, based upon these more refined numbers? If you have, I would love to see it, and shoot some test footage. Thanks, Andrew

No problems Chris, I real appreciate the time you have taken t help me. I have very basic math skills, any ways. When someone talks to me about logs, I think of a saw mill. I did have a look again at my camera, a h8 rex 4, and the manual I have for it. The camera has four settings on the levers mounting socket. They are listed in f stops, according to the manual. They read as follows, from top to bottom: blank ( wide open), 1/2 ( the manual says that the aperture must be opened 1/2 and f stop to compensate in this position, because the variable shutter has closed down by 1/4 of it's opening) The third position reads 1 ( the manual say to correct 1 f stop, because the shutter is now down to 1/2 of it's full aperture.) The final setting is blank, and is for fully closed. The manual also talks about " jerkiness" when using the Variable shutter. I'm thinking that what they are talking about is strobing. The manual stays with the lever set to 1/2 ( a f stop), the film speed should be more that 25fps. I think that the formula I found might be right, as a rule of thumb. In his book, Cinematography;theory and Practice, Blain brown points to two causes for strobing- a shuttler angle of less than 90 degrees, and panning too quickly ( a subject crossing the view finder faster than 5 seconds. I guess I will just have to shut up and shoot. Thanks Again, Andrew <h1 class="gb-volume-title" dir="ltr"></h1>

Sorry to repost, but I thought my new additions would be in a different colour. That last post was unreadable. Thanks for the quick response. One of the reasons why I am asking this question, is because I got the formula from a website that has wrong data on it. I have read some of the other stuff, and I was hoping to to get a "kiss" solution, because of the whole 144-135 argument seemed to get bogged down after awhile....I had a look at this thread previously, and I was hoping to avoid it by going straight to the manual. Interms of the mechanics of the thing, I thought that -F1/2 and closing down 1/4 were one and the same- to stop the shutter down a half a stop, the shutter had to be closed down a quarter of it's full opening? My goal is this: I just got my camera back with a new transport mechanism in it, and I was hoping to test it for the sharpest possible. I get you point about the transfer, so I'll change shooting at 25fps, ( to capture at 24p) at between f5.6 and f 11. I will project at 25fps, +/-, because I have a variable speed projector. As to the shutter dial, I will set it to the smallest opening possible, that will not have a chance of strobing. I was hoping to use F-1 ( the second position) Thanks for your answers, and your time, Andrewpublic/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif

Hi Chris Thanks for the quick response. One of the reasons why I am asking this question, is because I got the formula from a website that has wrong data on it. to get angle use: I have read some of the other stuff, and I was hoping to to get a "kiss" solution, because of the whole 144-135 argument seemed to get bogged down after awhile.... exposure * fps * 360 ~first positon on the variable shutter is half a stop I thought that they were one and the same- to stop the shutter down a half a stop, the shutter had to be closed down a quarter of it's angle Therefore simply take the open shutter angle and halve it - depending on how you like to think about fully open bolex shutters - it's either 144/2 or 135/2 or 133/2 (see here for more confusion: http://www.cinematog...showtopic=11912) I had a look at this thread previously, and I was hoping to avoid it by going straight to the manual. ~fps is redundant when it comes to shutter angle - but since you're calculating it via exposure it's a bit of a tangle Remember strobing is a perceptual effect, not something set in stone - the subjective response to it depends on the shooting frame rate, the shooting exposure relative to the frame rate and the same again in the projector. To answer your question, need some info: you're shooting at 18fps - to project/persent at 24, 30 ? and your variable shutter is set to what number on the dial? I just got my camera back with a new transport mechanism in it, and I was hoping to test it for the sharpest possible. I get you point about the transfer, so I'll change shooting at 25fps, ( to capture at 24p) at between f5.6 and f 11. I will project at 25fps, +/-, because I have a variable speed projector. As to the shutter dial, I will set it to the smallest opening possible, that will not have a chance of strobing. I was hoping to use F-1 ( the second position) Thanks for your answers, and your time, Andrew

Hi everybody, I was trying to figure out when I can expect strobing when using the Variable shutter. One of my books says past 90 degrees. I found this formula on the net: (fps x 360) / exposure time. I plugged in the numbers from my manual for the 1st position, 1/4 closed at 18fps- ( 18X360) / 87, and got the answer 74.48. Is this right? Will I get strobing at 1/4 closed. ( More likely I have messed this up some how) Thanks for reading, Andrew

Here is what I'm working on. It's an Elmoscope. I have been told that it is a re-branded Kiowa, but I really don't know. I bought it at an antique shop for $30. The rail and the Support were made, mostly with my table saw ( very carefully), from $25 of aluminum and stainless from the scrap yard. It's my knock off of the Bolex "Light Bench" My father in law machined a 50.5mm to 55mm step up ring. Next is a double threaded polarizer with the glass out to allow focusing. finally, a 55mm to series VI ( or V, I can't remember). I guess my point is that with a little messing around, the thing can be done on the cheap. As it stands right know the thing weighs a ton. after I get the kinks out, I'll start shaving down the metal, change somethings to plastic and Carbon fiber. Good luck with you Project Andrew

Here's A good one Jean-Louis just gave me, and I will share, about how much weight the turret can take: One very general rule-of-thumb for turret cameras like the Bolex is to grasp the rear mount with your fingertips and if you can't hold the lens horizontal, then it probably needs additional support.

Hi everybody, I was wondering, as a general rule of thumb, how much weight can the lens mount on a H camera support, before you new additional support, like a rail? Thanks, Andrew

As an update, if anyone is interested. The filter ring is a 50mm. I was told in a couple of camera shops that I would have to get an adapter machined, but I found a 50 to 52 ring on e-bay for $ 2.50, including shipping. I fit it on to my HV20, as well as my Bolex P1 ( both are 43mm), and the first tests are good. Once I get the results of the film test back, I will see if it's worth Fabing up a mount for my rail

Wow! Thanks for the great insight. It sounds like the system that you use is past the line where tools and technique blur into art. If you are shooting in BC, and need a flunkly, PM me. I am sure you will like the price. Thanks, Andrew

What kind of work do you see yourself doing? The type of filming you do should have a big effect on the type of equipment you buy.