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JB_Letchinger

Basic Member
  • Posts

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Profile Information

  • Occupation
    Cinematographer
  • Location
    Los Angeles, California

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.jblfilms.com
  1. shooting a scratch test is the usual thing to do before a shoot. use a dummy load and check it for scratches after you roll it throught the camera! - usually 10 or 15 seconds is plenty...
  2. I am selling an Arri SR1 (German motor) package: DP owned, handled w/care! 2 400' magazines, 2 Arri on board batteries, charger, handgrip, 5 digit speed control, Angeneiux 12-120 lens, Zeiss 8mm T2.4, sunshade, 2 battery adapters, spare fuse, case, arri handheld shoulder pad, Arri SR Extension eyepiece $6500 email jb@jblfilms.com
  3. Great condition Panasonic DVX 100a - cleaned/serviced regularly and recently. 3 batts, 2 chargers, remote zoom control, 3 tapes, clear filter with pouch, remote camera control, Pelican case (form fitted by A&J/Abel Cine) Good package for someone just starting out, or looking for Behind the Scenes, web videos, etc. Low hours, contact jb@jblfilms.com $1000 or best offer
  4. SELL: Arri SR1 (German motor) package: DP owned, handled w/care! Angeneiux 12-120 lens, Zeiss 8mm T2.4, 2 400' magazines, 2 Arri on board batteries, charger, handgrip, Zeiss 8mm T2.4, sunshade, 2 battery adapters, spare fuse, case, Arri SR Extension eyepiece, Media Logic 5-digit speed control. A & J case. $3900 opening or best reasonable offer - will separate extension viewfinder or 8mm lens - some 4x4 filters also available for additional price. No reserve. Great deal on a nice Arri SR here
  5. Good job Steve, You may have saved lives that day. That kind of thing doesn't happen all the time, very rarely actually and you should feel very good about it for a long time! I have a million stories, but not one where everyone could have died but didn't because I stepped up!! JB
  6. Tim, your photo is WAY better than mine! :) JB
  7. For someone starting a small production company, I think its fine to buy your own gear. However, you may want to wait until you've seen a bit more and done a bit more... Also, figure out who your shooters/sound guys are going to be - - see what gear they have --- see how much it will save you to not rent their gear... sometimes only 50 bucks here or there.. Also, you may really like Arri Kits, Kinos, or something else only after realizing their capabilities.. going Kino only (or knock-off cheapo flo) may not give you the results you're locking for (patterns, shadows, controllability).. Define your style, find your crew, research your gear, THEN buy if it makes sense. That way you won't dump money on stuff you'll outgrow in 6 months.
  8. This dial will not work with HMI's - you need a crystal speed control... Media Logic or Cinematogrpaphy Electrnoics The Variable control was designed for exterior, sunlight or tungsten and not exact speeds... I am selling one with my SR package on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=220468159175 I will separate the package if it does not sell
  9. I think Chris gave you your answer. Nylon thread and patch it -- - maybe some scrap silk from a rental house, or tough gridcloth. Or, try billing the production company for a new one... sh%$#t happens
  10. Absolutely - pole cats, autopoles - all are solid enough for that kind of weight! easy to use too -- !
  11. I have a old style Zeiss 8mm B mount wide angle I'd be interested in selling for 500!! I used it all the time as a wide alternative to the 12-120 without the distortion of the 5.9. you get it adapted to CP mount on your own and you're set. JB
  12. 57mm doesn't really qualify for 'telephoto" status, James. Your going to want something longer! That lens was designed for hand held news and doc photography -- back in the 70s sometime, I bet. it was the 9.5 end that got used the most... Get yourself something designed for super 16 and cut your worries down to the uncontrollables that will occur anyway! (trust the viewfinder - btw) there is a Zeiss 11-110 Original S16 that will give you great sharpness and shouldn't break the bank --- enjoy the ride. JB
  13. I've had good results with cutting a 2x4, (6 feet or so) placing some mole pars or something similar on either end, then having a grip move this around by hand. that way, both lights are moving together - same as a car... you want to get fancy and stick the grip on a doorway dolly and some track? go for it. (be careful) - but the big pan should sell the car turning and "strafing" your set with headlights. get a strong (ish) grip. good luck JB
  14. Brandon, this is something best shown and not "explained." Menace arms fall into a large category of things that you need to have someone with experience doing it, - with you or for you. I have seen many bent C arms due to Kino Flo overhead rigging - it will work for a couple hours, but there is inherent chance for equipment damage and injury. To answer your main question: Yes there is a safe way, and a menace arm is probably the best solution (depending on your location size - the pipe or 2x4 will extend back away from the stand with a ratchet strap/counterweight) - and you may or may not have the room for that.... But it is not safe if it is off balance or not properly secured. and I wouldn't want to be the one to tell you go and build it and have you say, hey it fell and I got fired, broke the light, etc.... If you wouldn't feel comfortable doing something yourself, go and learn on-set from some others (you may have to expand your network, take a cut in pay, etc)... Work on enough shows and you'll see just about everything - (or enough to raise your level of experience)... then you can go and improvise and do things you've never seen before and feel OK about it. Mean to help - not to criticize.
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