john spader

I’ve seen this done once and remember loving the look. I’m wanting to shoot my Ursa Mini Pro (16x9 sensor) but mount the 2x anamorphic PL lens sideways, in which, I would physically shoot/mount camera 90degrees. Then what now has become a 9x16 image will stretch in post to be approximately a 3:2 image (kind of a full frame look) however you get severe bowing on the sides which reminiscent of a fisheye but not. just trying to work out the monitoring challenges. anyone ever try this? And also, would the anamorphic lens (to the edges) actually utilize the whole sensor? any thoughts?

Really? I removed the EF mount and there was a shim, and there are like a dozen shim sizes in the PL kit, so I’m assuming depending on the lens, there’s correct thicknesses for hitting infinity.?

Changing EF to PL mount in Ursa Mini Pro 4.6k, and I can’t for the life of me find a guide/ref online of which shins to use for installation of PL mount? using Ultra primes as well as the angenieux ez?

this makes sense. can't seem to find a 60 amp GFCI from Shock Stop, Littelfuse, or Bender...do you have a link for one? and, so with this...I shouldn't install GFCI's on the snackbox then, yes?

definitely not intending to argue your motive, just seems like most people (except for Mr.Conley) just lean toward all the cons or that its too hard so why bother. I like to learn. and I believe that this can be done and have it be as safe as any other of the units out there still being rented. This would be for small non-sag productions, mostly my own stuff anyway. I try to be careful and safe with everything I do of course, so in hindsight I do appreciate the codes/laws etc. in the best interest of safety. What are your thoughts on pushing a 4-5ft rod into the earth connected to the gene or snackbox' ground not a safety solution?

thx for chiming in here Guy, but that modification has been used and safe for years...so seems silly for the NEC to all of sudden say something else. But from a business pov like you guys where you're trying to sell your products, I understand how its best to follow their mandates for liability and such...with respect. Bottom line is I probably can't afford your suggestion. I can probably get this modification done for under $500. There are other places on the eu7000 unit where the bates can be mounted other than the face with the other plugs. Where theres a will theres a way... and I'm more of a glass half full type a person.

ok, i'll check out SC. then wut were yur thoughts on the distance stuff?

absolutely with a local professional. ? lastly, I will be making my own bates cable (6/3 SOOW) and with the scenario of running the M40...would a 75 or 100ftr be too long? or should I keep it to 50ft?

I used to live in Austin so it would have been handy at the time but now I'm in DC. THANK YOU EVERYONE! This is great feedback and its making me feel more confident about accomplishing this with the local professional after I read the manual, open her up and wrap my brain around this. I'm still going to be responsible for getting the female 60amp bates face for the genset if anyone has a link for the correct item? I imagine its different than just getting a female bates head on amazon or what not.

I don't feel like I can understand the internal components enough to "metalwork" that...but maybe I'm wrong maybe its easier than I'm making it. I wonder if Angel (for a fee of course) would be willing to walk me through it on the phone so I don't f**k it up. Have you ever done it yourself?

I'm on the east coast so I doubt it. haha! Ok, so I think I'll make my own custom box. I'll run two 50ft cables (3-pin 30amp and the 20amp)taped together and my inputs on the box will be for both, in which, the internal wiring will correspond with proper plugs. Do you think I should add breakers on the box as well? or is just leaving it up to the gene's breakers fine? Lastly, with this configuration...from the 30amp side...what do you think is the largest HMI I could run that then? Arri M40?

also, my eu7000is has that 120v/240 selection switch at the bottom as well, doesnt that mean I can combine just like the 6500?

thank you Ed! this is extremely helpful dude! so basically if I were to make my own 50ft cable to a snackbox, the best amp output I could get is to use the 30amp twist AND one of the 20amp, then gaff tape together two 50ft cables to reach a custom snackbox, in which, the 30amp side and 20amp side would just need to be separate and labeled. yes? unless you have a better way to make this setup work? I'm only thinking about going this route, because to ship the gene to dallas would be astronomical.

I have a Honda eu7000is, but its not one of those adapted ones for film production where the 60amp bates is built into the front panel. So...I'm looking for how exactly to plug this thing up utilizing all amps possible to run a 50ft lunchbox. I DO have a 50ft bates (60amp) cable...(obviously one end plugs into the lunchbox) so it seems there has to be a way to cut off other end and wire it up to the 30amp twist lock or will I need to split it so I'm using the 30amp on the 120v side as well as the 240v side? Looking for detailed direction on how to make this work? thank you.

easy enough, right.