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Callum Ross Thomson

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About Callum Ross Thomson

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    Digital Image Technician
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  1. I wired up the battery tonight and it works perfectly. Not sure on total run time once it's fully charged, but in terms of size i'd definitely recommend LiPo batteries for these older cameras. It's small enough to velcro onto the side of the motor base.
  2. Thanks Jean, I hoped that was the case. That's the thing, the seller said it needed 16-18v, but maybe he meant to imply that it just can't run on 12v. I've gone ahead with the 14.8v LiPo battery, it's 4.4A, hopefully that'll be sufficient - unfortunately I can't see myself having the pleasant problem of having enough film to run a battery out first. I've just got to figure out how to solder these beefy battery wires to a new little 4 pin XLR connector and i'll be able to confirm if it works alright. Callum
  3. Hi Georgio. I'd be interested in 5 if I knew they'd work in my arri 2c 200ft magazine. Do you have any idea whether this is the case? I'm out of town so can't check on the magazine to see but if you look up eBay no 271366682911 there is a photo of inside the mag that vaguely shows the spindle.
  4. I have recently ordered a CP crystal 24fps motor for my new (or should I say old) 2c. In my hunt for a battery locally, and it's been suggested to me by a hobby store that I could use a 14.8v LiPo battery as they're much smaller, lighter, run at a more constant speed and hold much more power than the NiMH batteries that most people seem to use with their arri motors. I was originally told by the seller that this motor needs 16-18v, that if I use 12v it won't maintain crystal sync speed. My understanding from reading on this forum is that pretty much all constant speed 2c motors actually only need 12v, but if you use a 12v battery the voltage can/will drop below 12v occassionally, so you need a battery higher than 12v as a sort of safety net. I haven't been able to get in contact with the seller of the motor since i've made the purchase, so my question for you bright folk here is: do you think a 14.8v would allow enough of a margin to maintain crystal sync speed for this motor? Thanks in advance for any help!
  5. Haha I didn't realise what a can of worms i'd open by bring up calotypes! Thanks for all the great tips guys, I really appreciate it. I'll have a little play and let you know how it goes. Cheers
  6. I do know about daguerreotypes actually, and I understand that I probably can't make an image look identical to a daguerreotype, I just thought that perhaps all the other elements that go into making an image (ie lenses) might contribute to that look, and hence possibly there is a c-mount lens - or a lens that could be attached to a bolex using an adapter mount - that would give more of an 'old photograph' look than the standard bolex lens or the rx. I know terms 'early photograph look' is kind of vague, maybe I need to ask if anyone knows of a lens that might make a softer image; maybe with a focal vignette; or any other image qualities that would help the image look old. I want to make an old look as best as I can in camera so that I don't have to manipulate the image much in post, to keep it as organic as I can. I don't know, maybe I should rub the film stock along some steel wool in a dark room before I expose it! Cheers
  7. Hi guys, I'm shooting a time-lapse music video in a couple of months on a c-mount bolex camera, and i'm wanting to achieve a look somewhere between a still-life painting and a very old 'early photography' look (ie daguerreotype's and the like). I'm using a bolex 16mm camera (non-reflex) which takes a c-mount lens, and i'm just wondering if anyone can help recommend a certain lens/lenses that might bring an old-style look to the film. The film is a wide shot of a still-life feast on a table so I'd prefer a fairly wide lens. At the moment I have a Switar 10mm 1.6 RX lens, and the bolex stock equivalent lens (which I think is also a 10mm?). I hope i've provide enough info but if not I can link some visual references if that helps. Thanks in advance, Callum
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