Daniel Miler

thanks guys

How do you guys floorplan? Do you use a software? if so which one? I'm very frustrated with shot designer which has an awful user interface IMHO, and is very limiting.

thanks @Mark Dunn and @Dirk DeJonghe Yes it was 7219 500T

haven't dealt with these numbers in several years now, and really forgot how to read them. I only know it seems way off, but could someone remind me how to read this stuff? this is what I got from the lab reading of our gray card: 0.27 0.60 0.99 is the reading in the perf area. Thnaks all.

I tested my Bolex Rex4 and it seems the viewfinder is way off. The frame exposed on the negative is about 13-10% wider than what I see in the viewfinder (the difference can be seen in the image i uploaded from the tests). I also noticed the viewfinder is not so stable, that is, the eyepiece moves a bit which causes slight changes in frame size and position. Has anybody had any experience with trying to fix this kind of problem? There are no film camera technicians in Israel so its either trying to correct it myself or leaving it like this and I would like to give it a try if its not super complex (I have slight experience with home repairing old mechanical cameras, though mostly stils cameras). any advice or even links to tech/ repair manuals would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Simon, that is super helpful info! So if I understand you correctly if I roll faster than the fps speed set on the camera (for example 24 fps, and rolling faster than 3 rolls p/s) the camera's governor will break up the energy and roll the camera at a steady 24fps. But if i roll slower then the set speed (say 1-2 rolls p/s at a 24fps camera setting) then I will get the camera rolling at a variable and changing fps according to the slight changes in my rhythm. Is that correct?

I am going to shoot a short film soon on 16mm. We want to shoot a dream sequence in the film in hand crank. We did some testing on my bolex R4 (which were going to use for that sequence) and it looks real nice. Its gonna be all tripod - dolly work, and the main concern is the physical difficulty of hand cranking for a whole 2 days of shooting! and of course, trying to operate the camera while hand cranking. (was thinking to get an assistant to crank for me...) second concern is about keeping the rhythm. How to make sure I keep (relatively) the rhythm I want? and is there a way besides a-lotttt of expensive film exposing tests to learn which rhythm is "normal" speed (24fps)? Any tips on these or other points regarding hand cranking would be greatly appreciated! Cheers Daniel

Thanks everybody for your replies! Happy to say our material came through with no damage from the x-ray ?

Thanks Robert, thats very reassuring to hear!

Hi Dirk Thanks for your quick and informative reply! when you say there was an increase in the Dmin that is like fogging if i understand correctly? just need to overexpose a bit to overcome it and i lose a bit of latitude, right? and an increase of 0.02 is about how much in stops? BTW I did one of my first short films on 16mm with your lab... In praise of the day, produced by Philippe lacote if you remember ?

Brought in two rols of unexposed 500t/7219 from LA and it was X-ray scanned in the airport ? Is there any chance that the material is still good? Did anybody have this happen to him and and could share from his/ her experience of what came out of the stock? Thanks

great idea thanks robert!

Thanks Robert, You mean shoot a gray chart, and then project and measure the gray chart off the projection, right?

thanks for the info Tyler and Robert!

I have two 100' reels of vision3 7219 which were purchased from kodak some 10 years ago... did anybody here use this stock after so long and could help me guess how bad it's condition should be? It was kept in the refrigerator for about half of that time and the rest of the time in a closet in the shade. I just want to use them to run some camera tests and am wondering if the results should be good enough to estimate sharpness or even exposure... thanks Daniel