Ryan Fleet

I spoke with Bernie from super16 today and he was pretty sure that the viewfinder doesnt loose light in the original scoopic. But he will check it out while he is doing the CLA for the camera. Ill be sending it out to him on Monday with a 2-3 week turn around as long as nothing else is wrong with it. Im pretty excited to get the camera back and run some film through it. Thanks for your all your help and feedback

Jean, oh ok yeah that helps out a lot. That makes me feel a lot better I've been searching around trying to figure out what could be wrong and it turns out it works as it should haha Thanks for all your help time to run some film through it! I also found another person who services canon scoopics you could contact Bernie from Super16inc I'm going to be sending mine there for a CLA I know he is still in the states but just another option to look into. Thanks again! -Ryan

Will, unfortunately manually moving the aperture shows no difference in the viewfinder brightness. It's easy to see and focus at F22 just like at F1.6 so there is definitely a problem like you suggested. Before shooting a test roll I think I'm going to give Barry at super16inc a call, especially since I just realized he is only an hour away from my hometown. I'll see what the cost is to fix and get a CLA for the camera. After further messing with the camera I just got the auto aperture to work and manually moving the aperture I can now see the blades inside the lens opening and closing so I know they are working but still the viewfinder brightness stays the same through all stops. I rather be putting money into repairing a Scoopic 16M, MN, or MS instead of this Grey one but I can't even find one of those cameras for sale.

Just recently I picked up an old Grey model Canon Scoopic. I re-celled the batteries and now I'm checking the functions of the camera to see what works. The battery check on the camera reads properly but when I switch to auto exposure mode and half press the shutter the meter inside the viewfinder doesn't move no matter how bright or dark the object is. Also, when I switch to manual mode and move the aperture from 1.6 to 22 the viewfinder doesn't lose any light its just as easy to see through the viewfinder at 1.6 as it is at 22. With nothing working, I set it to manual and look down the lens barrel to see if I can see the aperture opening or closing inside the lens when I move from 1.6 to 22 but nothing looks like its moving in there either. Anyone who has used a Canon Scoopic original or M, MN, MS ever run into this problem? I'm new to this camera system and 16mm but it seems that something is wrong with my aperture not engaging.

Alright, awesome. It looks sharp even with the crop thats why I asked. I just finished recelling my batteries for my scoopic and i'm playing with the aperature ring set on manual but i'm not getting any light loss in the viewfinder when I go from 1.6 and move it towards 16. The battery is in and fully charged. Is this normal or do I already have something that needs to be fixed?

Yeah I cant wait to shoot it! Thanks for all the info I really appreciate it. One last question about your test shoot did you just crop your 4x3 image to a 16x9 aspect in post? Or did you get it scanned at 16x9?

That footage looks great thanks for sharing! I saw that the ASA according to the slate was set to 320 did you expose your 500T as 320? Understandable about not waning ship from France but I think it would be a great idea to bring it along with you this summer and get it looked at.

Jean, Great news on the scoopic purchase I have a regular scoopic as well. I havent used it yet though but its re assuring that the lens quality isnt terrible. Thats my main concern. Since I have no money in on my scoopic I was going to send it to DuallCamera in NYC for a complete overhaul and get it running properly. Im just not sure if the worth the money or not. Im sure they could help You out with this issue youre having. Do you have a link to the first part of your test roll? Id be curious to see what the image quality is with a modern scan.

Here is a sample of what Im talking about This shot with the super 16 K-3 on Kodak vision 3 50D that has a flicker https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LtQ5g2Udk1g Here is another super 16 K-3 short on Kodak vision 3 250D that looks really clean https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qk--YGrMJIQ

Im not talking about light flicker - Im talking about film not having what looks like a constant exposure. Ive seen this on transfers from the same model cameras. One looks steady and the other flickers I dont get it. Is this caused by the camera not being in good shape or is it a transferring issue?

Steve, is this still available?

Yeah after I posted we had a meeting and decided to get rid of them in the back of the truck. Thanks for your reply! -Ryan I was thinking we might be able to get away with available light but \the Litepanels seem like our best bet. The generator is going to be a problem and we don't want people in the bed of the truck anymore. We just need to get the directors monitor battery powered. Thanks for your reply! -Ryan That looks great! I really think we are going to go the Litepanel route and suction cup them to the hood. Thanks for the help! -Ryan Wow if the cops didn't bother you guys with someone on the hood, I hope we don't get bothered. Is there anyway I could see some stills from that feature of the car scene, I'd love to check them out. The audio is going to be a problem. I was thinking of having Lav Mics hidden in the car or on the actor's and also having a sound guy in the car on the tight shots, with the wide shot we might just have to go with the Lav's. Thanks for your help! -Ryan

Alright I've been doing lots of reading and really feel this forum is the best place to get the answers I need. I'm shooting a short film that mainly takes place in a moving car at night. Very hard thing to do for a Film Student on a 1200$ budget, I've come to find out. We did some tests and realized that we are going to need a well lit street. We found one and did some tests then realized not enough light was getting on the actor, so we switched the vehicle to a convertible. This made the shots a lot more interesting and created a lot more light for our talent. Here are some location/storyboard shots Here is a Photoshoped photo of the rig we will be attempting to use. This to us seems the most plausible, without the trailer we would have a car driving around with something obstructing the view of the actor. I'm sure this idea for shooting is still illegal but we think it might be less illegal, than just a car and camera mount, if that makes sense. Basically we are trying to pull this part of the film off in 1 night from 10pm to 6am on a Sunday night, without the need to shut an entire street down. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ifleeter/8755013241/sizes/l/in/photostream/ For the lighting we were thinking of adding a 1.2K HMI to the back of the truck and making it really soft to light up everyone in the car a bit more. What ways can we go about lighting the actors better without using dashboard lights or anything small. We don't want it to look like there are lights on in the car. We are using a Sony FS100 with Rokinon Cine lenses, I'm sure we would be able to get away with shooting it natural and bump the ISO up. But we really want to make the light look as best as we possibly can with what we have. Lighting equipment we have----- (2) 1k Fresnel and (1) 1.2K HMI and a lowell light kit. Is there anyway we could make this shooting rig safer as well as less likely to piss the cops off. The street we are filming on is 30mph so it's not a highway or anything. Thanks for any help or advice you can give me. -Ryan