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Ryan Fleet

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Ryan Fleet last won the day on June 25 2018

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About Ryan Fleet

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  • Birthday 01/15/1991

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    Bolex Rex 4
  • Specialties
    Video Editor - Colorist

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  1. After reading "A T-stop is an f-stop mark corrected for actual transmission (exposure)." - it would be correct for me to say... When I use my Sekonic L-478D meter to measure the light and it gives me a reading of F5.6, I can set any lens marked with T stops to T5.6 and it will be a more accurate exposure compared to any lens marked with F stops to F5.6? What I"m really trying to figure out is since my meter gives me an F stop reading will a cine lens marked with T stops be an issue for me or is it as simple as just setting the T stop to the F stop reading?
  2. Dom, Thank you so much, this is very helpful!
  3. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!
  4. My topic title is clunky but what I'm trying to understand is how 1 stop of light is calculated in all the different measurements. I'm guessing there is a chart somewhere but I couldn't find anything that seemed reliable or that had any explanations to what the math was. What are the increments of one full stop for F-Stops is F2 to F2.8 is that one full stop and what are the stop increments before and after that and how are they calculated. What are the increments of one full stop for shutter speed do you just double it? 1/50 to 1/100 is that one stop? What are the increments of one full stop for ISO/ASA is 100 to 200 one stop? is 160 to 320 one stop? do you just double this as well? I searched the forums but the search function didn't turn up what I was looking for. If this is already discussed can you please point me in the right direction. Thanks, Ryan
  5. Digging this thread up from way back... I have a Kern Switar 10mm Preset lens with no front cap and I'm trying to purchase one for it. Does anyone know the filter/thread size? I also need a lens cap for my Switar 16mm lens which stated above is 33.5 filter size. When I eBay search for the lens caps I don't see anything near 33.5 the best I can find is a 30mm lens cap. I'm specifically looking for the aluminum ones that say Kern Paillard on them. Just by looking at the 10mm preset next to the 16mm its clearly a lot larger than 33.5mm if thats the correct measurements for the 16mm. Any ideas on where to get these lens caps? Thanks!
  6. Dom & Simon, Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this I really appreciate it and I'm excited to shoot my rex 4 tomorrow! Dom, awesome site to link me to exactly what I was looking for! Thanks, Ryan
  7. Hey guys! Digging this up from the past. I have a Sekonic L-478D lightmeter which does not allow me to set my shutter angle to 133 it's either 135 or 130. Regardless of that issue though, I'll set my meter to 130 shutter angle for this experiment. I usually shoot 500T and when I shoot 500T I rate it at 320 on my Scoopic because I like that extra over exposure cushion like many people. But with my Bolex Rex 4 I know I'd have to compensate another 1/3rd because of the light loss in the prism. So if I was shooting 500T with my Bolex Rex 4 trying to match the exposure with my scoopic on the same film stock and using the same principal I would rate my 500T at 250 ASA with my bolex, correct? Just like Richard said I want to just stick to ISO/ASA rating of the light loss. That way I don't have to deal with shutter speeds when I switch frame rates. What I don't understand is that Richard said there is two reasons to light loss; 1.) The prism (1/3rd loss) and then 2.) The Shutter (1/3rd loss) why is the shutter causing a loss in light in this calculation? Is it because it's a spring wound motor? Because if that was the case then according to the 2/3rd light loss just because of the design of the bolex and then the extra 1/3rd exposure adjustment that I personally make to cushion my shadows that would equal me exposing a full 1 stop over to compensate using the bolex. Does anyone still have any more patience with this subject to clarify this, Ha? Also, does anyone have a proper bolex manual that they can link me too? I've been finding them in google searches but they don't have correct information; some state the RX lenses allow more light which is false and some say the bolex is 144 degree shutter which is not true for the REX series. Thank you! Ryan
  8. Hey Guys, Looking to buy a 16mm H16RX lens. Anyone have one they can part with? -Ryan
  9. Thanks for the help everyone! It ended up just being that adapter. My new one arrived today and it works great. Infinity focus is no issue. So for anyone looking to use a C to FD mount adapter don't use the Kipon branded one. I bought the fotodiox one and it works great!
  10. Geoffrey, Great news on acquiring a Scoopic MS they are great cameras! As for testing it - I would suggest putting your money towards a CLA instead of paying for a test, it would be more cost effective in the long run. Especially if something does turn out to be wrong with it. I sent my Scoopic 16 to Bernie at super16inc and he does an incredible job. He will do a complete overhaul to the camera and make sure it's running perfectly. http://www.super16inc.com/ The sharpness test can be done in multiple ways. Yes, you can use charts to help as well as measuring for focus to be precise. Focus charts can be expensive though so you could either rent some or just print something off depending on how scientific you want to get. I would also shoot a bunch of different apertures and different focal lengths. That way you can get a good sense of the lens. The meter issue is definitely something you're going to want to invest in to get precise readings. You can use the internal meter but that is reading the entire scene and giving you an average. Depending on what you're trying to accomplish it could be totally fine. But If you bought something that was reading the incident light you could get better results. You don't need anything fancy just something that is accurate like this https://www.amazon.com/Sekonic-L-398A-Studio-Deluxe-401-399/dp/B0010SJYBC Using a grey card and then viewing in Premiere Pro would be a good way to check your results using the lumetri scopes. Hope this helps!
  11. Dom, Thanks for the info, I went back and checked to see if the adapter is flush with the camera body and it is. The one thing I don't like about the adapter is it's lock/open mechanism is super loose it doesn't actually lock in place. I own a Fotodiox Pro FD to Sony E adapter and that actually locks in place. I just ordered the FD to C mount version from the same brand Fotodiox. If this doesn't work then maybe it's the lens. Thanks again for the help!
  12. Hey guys! My Kipon FD to C mount Adapter doesn't allow my FD lenses to focus to infinity. I can close focus just fine. The adapter is screwed on all the way. At least it won't let me screw it on anymore. This is all judging from the viewfinder. I haven't shot any tests with the lens adapter combo. I was hoping to get away with spending $40 on this Kipon adapter I purchased from adorama, instead of the $200 one that Les quoted for his custom machine made one. http://www.lesbosher.co.uk Does anyone ever use FD lenses with their Bolex cameras anymore? Not much comes up on google or the forum search. Hard to find recent examples too. The one example of the Bolex EBM Super 16 shot with FD lenses by Elliot Rudman is incredible but almost a decade old now. I'm looking for recent examples and recent adapters that you guys are using that work. I do know Elliot got his custom made from Les. But honestly, I rather just buy the kern switar lenses instead of using FD lenses with a $200 adapter especially if they are better quality anyway. Plus I only have 2 FD lenses for my AE-1 and nothing I'm dead set on using. I just thought it would be an easy way to have more options with lenses but I'm already running into an issue. The adapter does allow for my FD lenses aperture blade to move freely without any mod so that is a plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, -Ryan
  13. Will, please send footage when you can I'd love to see the U16 Scoopic footage. I was thinking of getting my Bolex Rex 4 converted to U16 from Bernie with the viewfinder laser brightened as well. Did you get your scoopic viewfinder brightened by Bernie? Robin, thanks man I had a blast shooting and editing this!
  14. Yeah, Bernie was great! Thankfully, this one was in great shape when it got to him but he really makes them run perfect! I agree these are great cameras for the music video/Doc/fashion/live performance type of work and gives a really distinctive look. I was extremely happy with what I got out of my Scoopic. I've watched your Scoopic U16 footage and it looks great! Thanks for watching and I'll definitely be shooting more 16mm!
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