Luigi Castellitto

Someone recommend me a good cable release, which does not cost much, compatible with a Beaulieu 4008 ZM II? For single frame and release button. The original ones can not seem to find them. Beaulieu.de also seems to don't have the original. Thank you. :)

You're right, better not to use filters, except ND. You are right also that the K3 needs less care than other cameras. After next shoot with black electrical tape and various attentions, I'll let you know the results! Thank you!

Hi, Ruben! In the film of spanish guy I can clearly see the spots; of course, they are colored and not white like mine, because the film is in colors, but it is clear that there are effect of light created by the technique described by him and you. Very good effect. When girls are in bed we see a mixture of "technique of release button" and sunlight and the effect is very beautiful. I not found the comment where he speaks about the technique, it's not in the same video? I saw that he also has the Krasnogork well covered by the scotch, on the footage counter window, on winding handle, on the various gaps, anywhere can come light. I see that it does not use necessarily black tapes for cover, that's good, I have blue too and can be useful to me. I follow and I'll follow all your advice: clear machine, I use lens shade, I use load film in the subdued light (with other cameras I use the total darkess, but the Krasnogorsk 3 is a camera easy to jamming at load, and I need to watch a little the loading. Of course, in very subdued light, only necessary light). For unloading the film I using a black bag, like total darkness. Two question: -The original Zenit UV filter of original K-3 kit might be useful for more protect of light artefacts? The good thing is that I can use multiple filters together, if I were to shot, example, with the 80A in indoors with daylight films colored or with the yellow filter and b/n film, or with the ND, etc. -What do you mean with "probably the camera needs to be serviced too"? Which must be well maintained and used with various professional tips you were saying or who it needs an overhaul? It is very new, end of production, years 1989-1990-1991, was not used. Thank you, Ruben, you helping me a lot!

Thank you, Will! I was rushed and I did not rewind the film in its spoole source, after shot sigh. And... I also have the anti-light black bag! From now, I do it, and I will use metal reels.

Thank you, Ruben! You're right, some spots are on cuts, when I press and release the button. I understand that, in this moment, there is a surplus or a anormal entering of light; in fact, sometimes, when i press the button (it is also make a noise like "clang" when around 24 fps and above, because it "must take turns"), I lose 3-4 frames between the two parts, and the frames are transparent, as if they had taken a great deal of light. About the points which the spots are not in cutting moments but in the half moment of the shot, do you think are reflections of light, sun, halogen light, ecc, or button that can not be pressed constantly? You are right, the button K3 is plastic, it is not like that, es., of a Bolex, it can also not be pressed in the same way for all the shot. I'm sorry, I do not understand English very well. Did you notice that spots at the end of my film are in the shiny spot where reflected light of the halogen lamps? It is normal? Therefore, you exclude problems of the fall of the K3? It's brand new and it has not made even a scratch and not light leaks. I will follow your advice and I will use metal daylight spools and I put the tape on the gap of the lid. The movie of your Spanish friend is visible online? Thank you!

Here are two examples with screenshots and circle, as said are spots that appear for a few tenths of a second. Are rare, do not bother, I suppose they are normal, I think, only "dispersion of light". In projection they see more. There may also be problems of development? I can try to change process laboratory. http://s32.postimg.org/qbfs8d7ph/DU1.jpg http://s32.postimg.org/7h70enqkl/DU2.jpg http://s32.postimg.org/49ld3yerp/DU3.jpg

Sorry, I explained bad. Are the PLASTIC original spools to be remained in the laboratory. These: http://www.rafcamera.com/media/extendware/ewimageopt/media/inline/64/e/krasnogorsk-k-3-16mm-movie-camera-29b.jpg Instead, the spool they contained (but now I have two empty) the unexposed films Fuji, Orwo, ecc., these: http://www.pachd.com/free-images/misc-images/film-reel-03.jpg are metallic, and I can use them. If someone knows they are of another material can say it, but to me they seem of metal. Thank, you, Mark!

Mark, you're right, it's a very bad telecinema. But see this version, it's better: At 1:03/1:04 minute a spot appears, for less than a second. at 1:26 we see another spot in the corner between the roofs of two houses. at 2:58 the spot is seen on the reflection of the small mobile edge. I know that with this amateur telecine not seen much, but in projection much more, even if they are not annoying. They are whitish spots that appear everywhere, for less than a second, as if the film took light and was blotchy. If needed I can do screenshot and circling the precise points where the spots appear.

I accidentally sent the two original Krasnogorsk 3 daylight spools 30m to a lab, which he forgot to give me back them. But I have ones type where, were contained other films (Orwo, Fuji ...), that seem even more resistant, they should be in aluminium, not plastic. You which one use? Someone says that it is better to use other type, more stronger types, because the originals Zenit in plastic are very fragile and can be inaccurate. You agree?

I used for the first time a new Krasnogorsk 3, I used it with a Orwo UN54 30,5 meter, process with Reversal process. All right, the image is the usual Orwo that I like in other format, good image, good exposure; but I noticed a "strange" thing, probably normal, but I try to ask it anyway: in few seconds of some scenes, only on, presumably, hightlight point of image (not in all frame!) there is a simil "pulse" of light, a say, in presumably where light reflected. It's similar (but not it the problem) when the film taking light in lateral side, but, as said, it's not to the side of film, but in some highlited zone of frames. I don't think it's a problem of light entered in the camera, though, one day, while Krasnogork was on the tripod fall to the ground. Absoluty no damage, not even a scratch, lens and body Ok, no crash, nothing, e i don't think that the problem it's a fall... All right, I uploaded a "flying" video, taken with a Sony handycam, without any forethought. Bearing in mind that the video has a very strong flickering, it has distorted colors and light, the lines of interlacet, and all that we know happens with amteur telecine, but they are all defects of amateur telecine, which have nothing to do with what I indicated (which still is percebile in the movie). In the rest of the movie that I uploaded, because flickering and wrong brightness do not see the problem, but at 3:03 you can focus well, the bright yellow border of little cabins, is iron, reflecting with little flash, for some time, you see That it is an artifact clear. Obviously in projection will see better, and certainly it is not a ruined film, the film in new. Ah, is not the problem of the projector, I see them even with editor viewer. For you, are: simple artifacts of light, reflections, things can also happen with camera in perfect condition? I admit that I saw these small lights also on other films, called them "light scattering." In short, I would be able to exclude that my K-3 has problems. If I was wrong to point the spotlight, or I was shot too in direct sun, or was it better to use the ND filters or are artifacts from lens, but that does not mean damaged lens it's OK! I wonder if the camera would have had problem, even with the fall, it has light leaks, the film should not have been more veil and homogeneous veil and not in light areas such as these? And if had damaged the lens or the shutter or mechanical of camera, should not see each other more film damage than simple micro lights? Thank you! :) Here the little telecine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-MHzBwG_TA

Ahah! :D "Boys"

Boys, where I ought to do the re-cell (I have old battery, battery charger and also container for recharge, all in good state, It does not suit me to buy a new battery) of the battery of Beaulieu 4008 ZM II? I saw a little 'around the web, but if you can do it even... Better in Europe, I am in Italy. Mr. Bjorn Andersson is still active? Thank you!

Oh, what a strange values 9,12,17,25,50,70,100,140,200 and 300! O_O You have these values in your K-3? Sorry, I do not always understand English well. Here we can see various versions of the knob of the K-3: http://www.k3camera.com/k3/k3lightmeter.php I'am a bit 'confused, eheh! But... it's possible that my Krasnogorsk was produced after 1987? They still were produced?

I checked the films released with the values 20, 32, 80 or 125, they seem for photography and not for film. Example between 50 and 100: 64: 64 Kodachrome, Ektachrome-X, Polaroid type 64T 80: Ilford Commercial Ortho, Polaroid type 669 Although it remains a doubt because the values 20, 32, 80 and 125 can be used the same, your argument is more convincing, Mark.

Mark, thank you! You say: "GOST has been identical to ISO since 1987", but my camera is older than 1987, or not? However, my second question I think it fixed, are ISO. Because the GOST have different scale (8,11,16,22,32,45 ...). It's right? I hope that the value between 50 and 100 is 64, because I would like to use a Fuji 64 D. Although it is a negative film, and no need of precision, I'd like to set the exact value. But some films, example, require 80 ISO setting, such as a b/w daylight film in tungsten shot, like Fomapan.

Ops, Mark, I wrote the Edit while you you answered me, your quick and prepared in a Krasnogorsk world! :)

EDIT: 1) Between 50 and 100, should be 64 or 80, 75 does not exist in the ISO scale, sorry! 2) The GOST scale have a different values numbers (8,11,16,22,32,45 ...), so, even though my camera had all written in Russian, those shown in knob should be ISO and not GOST. It's right?

Can anyone tell me what are the intermediate steps of the knob of the Krasnogork 3? Those marked only with a point. I scored those represented with a dot in red. The scale is: . 12 . 25 . 50 . 100 . 200 . I want to know the value, especially from 50 to 100. It's 75? Another thing: I have the version for the Soviet market, but the on the knob is marked GOST/ISO (see attach photo). Both. They are ISO or GOST? The difference is minimal, I know, but I'd like to know. Thank you! :)

For various K-3 users on the forum: I can set 64 Asa (fuji f-64d 16 mm) on the knob on the K-3? I know I could use an external lightmeter, but the one in my camera works perfectly and I would use it. I have to set 50 or 100, and do calculations with the stops? I can't understand if the knob of Asa has values of intermediate sensitivity.

Ah, I had not seen, it'is a very fast and precise loading. I, however, still have the loop formers. One day I think to remove them, for now the camera is new and I would not even do this. I'll have to do it because, in the loading moment, the claw, 90% of the time, does not hook the hole of film, and I do the operation of removal pressure plate and slide the film for engaging the claw in the claw. Perhaps, without the loop formers not happen.

Thank you, Mark! 2) You as you adjust for that? 4) I wondered why it seemed to me that the cut of film cutter was slightly oblique. Or not... As it would be better to cut the film to be inserted: straight, oblique with the tip down or oblique with the tip on top?

1) The viewfinder is slightly colored yellow, but I read in other post of this forum that is normal, that is ONLY the viewfinder and not the lens, and does not affect on the film. 2) You can put Asa intermediate setting? 125, 160, etc.? Although the little setting wheel is made for "click" on standard measures, it does not leave a lot of movement between two of "standard" Asa setting. Or is it better put standard measurment (es. 100 Asa for 125 Asa film) and be a calculation of + or - stop and + or - 1/3 of stop with the internal light meter? 3) The footage counter should also work with less than 30 meters on the reel? I mean only a few meters on the reel. I have a couple of meters of film tests on a reel, but it not move. The internal lever that detects the meter it's ok, it "push" on the reel side. 4) Which way you put the edge of the film in film cutter? Emulsion towards us or towards the machine?

Excuse me Ignacio, I still can't understand if it with my Fujica ZC1000 + Fujica tape control cord + generic cassette tape I can get the sound synchronized with the images, or I can just start simultaneous the camera and the tape, but still remains a small difference not in synchronization between image and sound. Thanks for the reply! :)

Hi! I have to develop Fomapan R100 double 8mm B/W reels (10mt each): i bought the development kit Fomapan R100 B/W and I have a Lomo tank that can contain only one reel at a time. Can you tell me what are the proportions of water and solution for each reel?