Alexander Boyd

images can be found here: https://www.ebay.de/itm/284157913039 Ignore the listing price on ebay, selling it for 2150€ plus shipping.

bump.

Selling my Bolex H16 EL Kit. Everything is tested and fully functional, with normal signs of wear. The kit includes the following: - Bolex H16 EL N16 camera - Schneider Macro Variogon 12,5 - 75mm f1.8 - original Bolex battery with pouch - original Bolex power cord - original Bolex charger - original Bolex matte box with rods - C-mount adapter Price: 2150€ plus shipping. Photos to follow shortly. Shipping within Europe preferred, but willing to ship internationally if buyer covers custom fees/taxes. Private sale.

bump.

The camera is for sale again. I've made a new listing with infos, pricing and photos here:

Sadly I have to let go of my Arri 235 3perf + 4perf kit again. Bought it not too long ago from a professional DP for a project, but plans changed. Everything is in excellent working condition. The package includes the following ... - Arri 235 body, 3perf movement installed - 4perf movement + case - 3x 400ft shoulder mags - 6x different ground glasses, with cases (3perf: 1.85, 2.35, HDTV | 4perf: 1.66/TV, 1.85/TV, TV Safe) - Oppenheimer 235 on-board power system (for using Anton Bauer/Gold Mount batteries) - Arri riser plate - Arri BP-8 bridge plate - Arri LMS-1 Low Mode Supp

sold.

sold.

Looking to purchase a Lomo Standard Speed 75mm lens in Kinor housing. Preferably in PL mount already, but ok with other mounts too. Thanks in advance for any leads!

Thanks for clarification, not sure how I came up with the idea that such a thing would exist. I guess No. 13 (ANSI Super 35 TV 1.78 + 1.33 trans (3 perforation only)) is what I'm looking for now.

Looking for a 3perf 1.33 Gate Mask (+ GG if possible) for an Arri 235 camera. Thanks in advance for help and possible leads.

Thanks for pointing this out, Stuart. You're right, the edges are not just blurred as in a lensbaby effect, but the light is kind of "broken up" and refracted. I'll do some tests with additional glass in front of the lens.

Hi all, I'm trying to find a way to optically diffuse/diffract light so that the image is blurred towards its outer edges. Similar to what they did in Post Tenebras Lux, where I have read somewhere that they removed front elements of the lens. Would love to hear how you'd go about this. thanks, Alex

apologies, forgot to add: for the 235

Considering selling my Arri 3perf movement, since I don't shoot enough where it would make a considerable difference in terms of saving film/money. Hard to come buy and not sure how much they are worth, so feel free to simply make me an offer.

Selling my Arri 235 (3perf & 4perf) camera package. In excellent working condition and well maintained. Previous owner was a professional DP, I bought it for a project but sadly need to let it go again. The package includes the following ... - Arri 235 body, 3perf movement installed - 4perf movement + case - 3x 400ft shoulder mags - 6x different ground glasses, with cases - Oppenheimer on-board battery adapter for using Anton Bauer/Gold Mount batteries - Arri riser plate - Arri bridge plate - Arri top cage/bracket with handle - Arri 235 (

Sent in a lens for rehousing about three months ago, and haven‘t heard back since then. Several emails, tried to call him as well. Has anyone been in touch lately? I figured with a high reputation as his, he wouldn‘t just disappear and rip off people?

Ordered a bunch of 100ft Vision3 16mm Daylight spools for a shoot this upcoming Sunday, but apparently Courier messed up the shipping and they will arrive much too late. Is anyone in or near Marseille selling 16mm daylight-spooled film? Happy to pay a bit extra for the last-minute rush. Any leads are much appreciated!!

Hi everyone, currently experiencing the following problem with my Canon 1014 XL-S: the viewfinder keeps displaying "END", even though the film hasn't been shot all the way through (no "exposed" marks on the film yet). In addition, when pressing the shutter there's only a kind of clicking noise, as if the camera is trying to start to run, but is unable to. I tried swapping cartridges as well as new batteries, to no avail. Curious to hear if anyone of you has experienced the same issues and if there's a solution? Thanks!

Anybody know if the GL Optics-rehoused Canon FD 35mm would work/fit on an Arri 235? Judging purely off of images, the lens' body looks like it might touch the front bottom of the camera. Would love if someone with knowledge about this could chime in. Thanks!

I own it, but haven't been able to use it yet since it's still in the original Cameflex mount. Here's a piece that Zack Spiger (I think he's on here too) shot using Kinoptiks: https://www.vantagefilm.com/en/news/re-housed-kinoptik-glass-10507#gallery-5

Thanks a lot for your feedback! I actually made I mistake, I meant the OCT-19 version (which indeed is easier to convert to PL). Heard a lot of good things about that version. I also saw some nice footage shot on the Kinoptiks, so coming across one in really good condition I simply went for it, yet still exploring other options since it won't be for another couple of months until I'd actually get a rehousing done. The Schneider (Cine) Xenons would have been another choice, I just haven't found one in good condition (must have somehow missed the one you mentioned selling for $277).

Hi everyone, I recently got my hands on an old Kinoptic Apochromat 35mm f2 in very good condition and I'm considering having it rehoused by P+S Technik in Germany. However, it would be quite an expensive investment, and I'm wondering how this lens holds up against a cine-modded, PL-Version LOMO Spheric 35mm f2 (the OKS-11 version to be specific). I'm comparing these two specifically because I'm looking for a vintage, compact 35mm lens, and these two were of particular interest to me. Curious to hear your thoughts and if anyone has experiences with them. Thanks!

Hi everyone, looking to purchase a small and compact prime lens in the range of 35mm to be used as a n"always on" lens for a documentary, using an Arri 435. I came across the newish Xeen CFs as a possibility, or alternatively using vintage glass such as Zeiss Planars, Flektogons, or Leica Summicrons (rehoused or at lest with gears). Curious to read your thoughts, thanks in advance for your help!

Hi everyone, I recently had a Spirit 2K Telecine done of 400ft of S16mm. Oddly enough, about a quarter of the image is quite unsharp to the degree that there‘s a noticeable difference between a person standing in said area, and another person who‘s not. Both people are standing along the same plane, eg. they both should be sharp. I‘m wondering what might have caused said unsharpness. The film maybe not being completely flat while being scanned? The camera not pulling the film through evenly? We shot on an Aaton XTR, and I think we would have noticed if the film wasn‘