Max William Lauf

I'll check your stuff out. My video professor used to force everyone in our class to take twice as many lights as we thought we'd need out on location shoots. And he was right. As much as I think the mixed colors of practical lighting are beautiful on video, you need to do a lot of subtle work lighting the background. And that was back with SD tape!

Yeah, it looks pretty much like he took a spot reading off the flame. You aren't wrong. But any post that brings up the poor shadow quality in "cinema" cameras is beneficial, I think. And maybe this sort of alchohol-induced control-trollish thing I'm pulling is part of the conversation about that general awareness about how we need deeper and prettier shadows from a camera instead of the more-marketable higher ISOs. Is Blackmagic even reading this?

Steve Howe, I don't like helping to dig up dead threads, but I'd just like to say that your comment is not helpful. In my experience, anyone in the photographic arts who works the LA/NYC/London triad know hows how to correctly expose an image on their digital gear. Even if they historically have primarily used 16mm. Vadim Joy posted about experiencing what he thought was a technical quirk; James Oldham noted a similar issue. Blackmagic's customer service responded to Vadim's inquiry, diagnosed the camera with a faulty component, replaced that component, and sent it back to him. Firing off a two-sentence quip is, again, not helpful.

I see what you're talking about; I get those lines a lot on low-light iPhone snaps and used to see them in files from older, low-res DSLRs. Im not speaking from expertise, but from what I've seen it's just a small-sensor, high sensitivity thing that happens. Are you going for the low contrast, milky-shadow look? You may have to crush the blacks and then reign them in after. I don't own a BMCC, but that looks pretty standard for imaging chips of that size, so I wouldn't worry about anything being wrong with your camera. Just takes a little work in post.

Hi all, I just picked up a K-3 for a comparatively inexpensive price. When I got it, I discovered the camera was jammed, and at full wind -- about 4 full turns -- it would only run for about eight seconds. I fixed the jam by raising the height of the drive sprocket -- it looks like someone who didn't know what they were doing took the thing apart to try and work on it, because the threads on one of the screws/posts holding the baffle plate on were stripped. Since I was able to fix the jam so easily, I'm wondering if anyone knows what the problem with the short run time is. If it's a matter of resetting something so the spring is allowed to wind fully, and is a procedure that's reasonably easy to do, I'd consider trying to fix it myself. Otherwise, I'll probably send the camera to DuAll. I figure it's not worth returning, because the combined shipping costs will then be as much as the camera. Does anyone know what might be causing the short wind, and is it possible to fix without the spring lopping my head off? Thanks in advance, Max