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Henri Titchen

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Everything posted by Henri Titchen

  1. Hi, A quick query. Hope someone can help. I am looking to replace a few machine screws on a Russian camera. Are the screws used on the mechanisms of Russian cameras standard metric threads? Do they use ISO metric coarse and fine screw threads? Thanks From, Henry.
  2. This unit has now found a new home. Thanks From, Henry.
  3. Hi, I am looking for a schematic or circuit diagram for the Cinema Products crystal motor that suits the Arri 2 camera. If you can help please e-mail me at the following address...please remove the spaces and replace the (at) with @ cinefan (at) gmail.com Thanks From, Henry.
  4. Hi, I have a 16mm Takita continuous contact printer that I would like to give a good home. This is a professional lab machine. It requires some minor work to get running. Location is NSW Australia. You must have a trailer to pick the unit up. I cannot organise shipping for you. This is a large heavy unit similar to a Bell and Howell Model "J" with some more advanced features. If interested send me an e-mail to : Cinefan (at) gmail.com Henry.
  5. There are sometimes VistaVision projectors etc on e-bay. At the moment there are some KEM editing units see e-bay item no: 150236019209 350052310021
  6. You could make a VistaVision contact print VERY easily/cheaply. The print would be an 8 perf print. It would then need to be projected on a VistaVision projector. Any continuous contact printer could do this! The price would undoubtedly be exactly the same as printing any other 35mm negative of the same length....no extra setup is required. An old 35mm printer like a Bell and Howell model D could handle this task. Many labs have these or better contact printers. Brian Pritchards Website with info on the Model D printer
  7. Great project. Keep us informed how it works out. A very inexpensive supplier of lenses and associated items is called "Surplus Shed". http://www.surplusshed.com/ They stock binocular parts including eyepieces and other bits and pieces that you may find useful. Henry.
  8. Steven, Try Visual Products, Cinematechnic or Les Bosher for quality PL mount adapters. I have found some "budget" PL mount converters on e-bay. One I purchased was made of stainless steel and was too narrow to fit an Arri standard lens and also the tabs were 2.20mm instead of 2.00mm thick. I purchased another one from a different seller, it was made of chromium plated brass. It had tabs that were out of spec as well! When the tabs are a long way out of spec the camera mount will not accept the lens mount....a problem. Henry.
  9. Martin Hill has four 65mm cameras listed. Including a Panavision 65mm Camera Model SC. http://www.martinhill.com/The%20Advanced%20Collector.htm Henry.
  10. Matt, According to Wikipedia the Leica M series has a flange focal distance of 27.80 mm. This is a lot less than most cine mounts require. E.g. Arri requires 52mm. I suspect special machining would be required. See the link below for a fascinating article regarding the use of an f0.7 lens by Stanley Kubrick. http://www.visual-memory.co.uk/sk/ac/len/page1.htm Henry.
  11. Panaflex Millenium on E-bay....or the chassis of one. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?V...em=330223379490 Henry.
  12. Thanks Olex, much appreciated, I think both of the adapters I was describing are very slightly out of specification. Thanks From, Henry.
  13. I have a couple of inexpensive stainless steel Arri standard to PL mount adapters. They came from different continents/manufacturers. I am experiencing a problem where the adapters are too thick to be able to lock into the lens mount of a PL mount camera. The "locking tabs" or "wings" of the mount are too thick for the PL mount on the camera to lock. Can anyone let me know what the thickness of these should be? The "tabs" on one of mine measures about 2.25mm the other measures about 2.20mm thick. (I used a micrometer). I measured an Arri plastic PL mount camera "dust cap" and the tabs on it are about 2mm thick. What should the correct thickness be? Thanks From, Henry.
  14. Cameraquip here in Australia have a selection of anamorphic lenses for rental. They offer Hawk, Lomo, Cooke and Ultrascopes. http://www.cameraquip.com.au/cq-data/35lens.htm#35Anamorphic Henry.
  15. Hi Richardson, The following German company sells short ends an re-cans. Film Xchange GmbH Osterfeldstr. 75 22529 Hamburg Germany tel:+49-40-57006700 fax:+49-40-57006701 http://www.filmxchange.de/
  16. Another way to check prices is to look at past sales on e-bay (using the advanced search option)and also to check prices with some of the excellent online cine suppliers such as Visual Products. Henry.
  17. Hi Jack, I realise that you have already found the Film-Tech site however I would suggest posting on the Film-Tech forums in the classified area. There are some very knowledgable projector people who visit Film-Tech. Henry.
  18. Steve Morton may be able to help you. Please see his web page. http://members.optusnet.com.au/~smort1/lomos/lomos Henry.
  19. I have a base that looks very very similar. Mine is a genuine Arriflex AC Sync base (as are used in blimps). It has a frame counter etc on mine. The pin you have circled in red is not a switch. It is just an alignment pin onto which the switch box would originally slide, it serves a mechanical purpose, not electrical. There is a photo of one of these bases at Nathans site: http://www.owyheesound.com/images/arri-2-i...at-base-mot.jpg You can just see the pin that you have circled red on the above photo. It is highly likley that someone has retro-fitted another motor onto your base. It would pay to get an electrical/electronic guru to see if they can figure out the wiring/voltage requirements. Henry.
  20. There is a great stop motion forum. http://www.stopmotionanimation.com/dc/dcboard.php Henry.
  21. Paul, Have you made any progress with the telecine? Can you post any images? Thanks from, Henry.
  22. I have received dented cans in the past also. I paid for a dip/clip test which revealed only very minor compression fogging around the sprocket holes. In my case it was nothing to worry about. I suggest a dip/clip test might help you to decide if the film is badly damaged. These tests are ususally inexpensive. Henry.
  23. Paul, Particle Transfer Rollers may help keep the negative clean. These are commonly used in film projection and also in labs. http://www.nfsa.afc.gov.au/preservation/fi...er_rollers.html Henry.
  24. Here is an interesting link that details why some lenses are radioactive. The Thorium content of some lenses is the cause. http://www.orau.org/PTP/collection/consume.../cameralens.htm Henry.
  25. Does anyone know what oil is suitable for a Mitchell camera movement? Is an exact equivalent to the original oil available from any lubricant supplier? Thanks from, Henry.
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