Baltasar Thomas

Thx aapo! Great suggestion..! Velcro...how could I forget! Thanks guys, it'll probably become some sort of monster using several of these combined..! I'll post a pic of my set-up when it's in use.

Hi Michael, Thanks for the extensive reply, haven't been able to further test the camera the past week. I suspect the camera's been tinkered with a bit, as you say. I'm going to run those tests you've described and see if I can correct it soon, I'll report back when there's progress, thanks a lot so far!

Hi Mark, something like that might do the trick! Hadn't thought of those, might be simple yet effective. Might be in the way of the filmdoor or wind-up crank though.

Hi Brian, thanks for thinking with me here. I'm aware of the noise of the camera and it not being suited to record sync-sound with for common purposes. I still want to mount a mic on it though, because I need one to be accessible just before, during and right after filming. Right now I'm thinking of gluing a cold-shoe mount on top of the camera. But I'd rather build a nice rig with a cheese plate, handle etc. So if anyone has any suggestions..!

Hi everyone, Upon reading my question most of you will probably be like: "...why?", but hear me out. I'm looking for options to mount a recorder/shotgun-mic combo on a Krasnogorsk 3 camera. For my own experimental documentary work I want to use my K3. I've used it a few times now. Hand-processed the film and am mostly satisfied with the results. I'm interested in using non-sync sound with the images. (Playing a lot with the sounddesign in the edit). For this purpose, the images are digitized. I finish most of my projects in digital. I like the K3 for its simplicity and small size. In terms of sound, I'm interested in the things that occur around the image, where the frame ends so to speak. Also - the things heard right before and after a scene. I'll be recording on my own and that's why I need a quick and easy to use setup. Having to put the camera down to handle a recorder-mic combo like a Zoom H6 would be to slow and I think I'd quickly run into situations where I would have no place to put the camera for the time being. Right now, I'm thinking of creating some sort of cage to mount a small recorder-mic unit like the Zoom F1 on top of the camera. Ideally, I'd be able to mount a rosette grip somewhere as well. The K3's is not making it easy on me though. I need to be able to access both sides in order to wind the camera and change the film, and I need to be able to access the back for the viewfinder. So, there it is! If any of you can think of some DIY solutions to this problem please do share! Or if you know of some very modular cages that might be suited, that would be great as well! Thanks!

So it works with the outer ring set to CLOSED at 6 o'clock. I'm guessing, by the photo in your article, I should be able to turn the outer ring, without turning the inner ring. But I can't, so that might be stuck somehow. I see there's two small screws holding the FADE control plate in place. I might just take a look and see if there's anything visible causing it to stick, unless you advise against it!

Still no luck I'm afraid! The white dot of the outer-manual ring is at 12 o'clock. The white dot of the inner auto-ring is at 6 o'clock. Pulled down the M' lever a few times. It's set to speed and 18fps (tried 12 and 24 as well). Still no movement with the only thing indicating power being the red dot above the viewfinder image. Guess all that remains is trying to open it up. Any advice on where to start? If I can't get it to work, maybe I can make someone happy with it to use for spare parts. Thanks for all the help so far Michael! *EDIT: The powerzoom buttons work as well, I just found out! **EDIT: I might have misunderstood! With the outer-manual ring white dot set to 6 o'clock it works!

The notch is intact. Yeah, I figured as much! Nothing happens when I push it back as well so I guess this can't be it. What I did notice just now is a red dot just above the image in the viewfinder, that's only visible with the power switched on, and only while pressing the trigger. There's no F-stops visible however, and no change in the light meter. Would the red dot indicate a dead battery perhaps? They're fresh batteries - so I guess there's still the chance of a contact failure somewhere in that case..?

Great articles Michael! I understand the camera a lot better now. Unfortunately still can't get it to work for now. I did notice that the battery compartment for the two AA batteries is not as tightly locked as I would expect. It locks, but there is some room to push the door of the compartment even farther in when locked, pushing the batteries inside a bit farther as well. The door of that compartment comes off completely as well when I open it, is that how it was designed? I could make a short video if it helps?

Thanks a lot Michael! Seems something went wrong while I was attaching the image, but we are definitely talking about the same button. I'll check out those articles!

@Michael Lehnert I've attached a photo, this is the M-setting you were talking about right? (still figuring out all the knobs, have a french manual that i've yet to decipher). I pulled it down a few times. Didn't change anything! @tom lombard I'm afraid the batteries shouldn't be the culprit either, at least, they're te right voltage and non-rechargeable. Would be a shame if I can't get this beauty to work! Might try opening it up next to see if there's any visible damage or dirt..

Hi, Can anyone tell me if the Bauer A512 only actually starts the filming mechanism with a cartridge inside? I picked up one of these for quite cheap and it looks to be in decent shape, popped in 6 fresh AA batteries, set the top switch to indicate the power to show the green dot, pressed the trigger and...nothing happens. And if it is supposed to start up without a cartridge, any ideas as to what's causing the problem? The contacts of the battery compartment seem clean to me. Thx!

Hi, Came across this, might as well rekindle it instead of starting a new thread: I would like to process some Ektachrome 7255 film myself. I know the film is ancient and I don't expect to get any 'good' results. Any image would be interesting. Did a bit of research and found out people have processed 7252 film with E6 with varying results. Was wondering if anyone here knows if the ECO-3 process going with the 7525 film is comparable to the ECO-1 process that was used for the 7255..?

Hi Josh, sounds promising! Definitely share when you're ready. Still trying to get my hands on a projector myself..

Hi Pol! Thank you so much for this very comprehensive answer! I will definitely take your advice to heart and start reading a lot about the different things required, starting with machine vision camera's. The simpler solution you mentioned with near full speed recording sounds ok, but like yourself, I really need to get the most out of the image. I'll check back in (might be a while) when I'm making progress...! Cheers, Baltasar