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bradley hayman

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About bradley hayman

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  1. sure. anyone else looking can find it here http://www.vintagecameras.fr/images/MonSite/LEITZ/Leicina_Super/_Doc/Control_Unit_Manual_en.pdf
  2. Hopefully soon I'll be shooting some long exposure stuff on super 8 but I'm having problems figuring out exactly how to use the Leicina ST 1 electronic control unit. Any help? I have a manual but the wording on page 9 seems very confusing. Rotary knob dot facing dot (?) range 1 range 2, I'm surprised they couldn't make it clearer. So I'm not really looking for single frame operation, but long exposure operation, but again, the manual isn't very clear. Another basic question: when they say "interval", are they referring to the time between exposures? And "scene duration" is the actual exposure time? Will the "interval" time and "scene" time always be the same?
  3. WOW! I'm so jealous! I've stumbled into buying 3 cheap Filmo 70s (1 DA and 2 DR). I used to repair and/or tinker old watches so the ability to open these up and repair them appeals to me. All three appear to be running normally after some oiling or adjusting. But none of my 3 look as immaculate as yours! Nice find! I think, like yourself, I'm a little skeptical of the critical focus device. Have you been able to focus any of your lenses using the critical focus? I happen to have a c-mount Canon TV 16 lens (25mm) that focuses perfectly on my Eclair NPR but for some reason can't focus at all on either of my Filmo DR cameras. I'd love to test these cameras out, but if I have to get out the tape measure for every shot, it will add a lot of time.
  4. Aha! I think Im starting to get it now, thanks. That makes sense that there needs to be some kind of buffer or slack between the two different motions (intermittent vs continual).
  5. Thanks again for your help and input. I did have this mag serviced (not exactly sure what that entailed) and after some practice I think I narrowed down the sources of the various sounds I heard once the camera was running. Mostly due to my own inexperience and incompetence the core on the take up side wasnt secured completely so that led to one noise. Another was the metal of the daylight spool grinding against the inside of the magazine (which seems to be missing a part) and making a slight ringing sound. Another VERY loud sound was when the loop somehow gets lost. Never imagined it could be so loud but instantly disappeared once I removed the mag and recounted and redivided the loop. Finally finished my test roll which took some effort as I was trying test the abilities of about 7 lenses. Fun but challenging to do it in public. This camera turns a lot of heads as soon as I get it out of the car! Some are astonished and some appear terrified lol Hope your tests went well and Id be curious to know what they were
  6. Hi Samuel, Thanks for all that info! I've been watching those tutorials and they are definitely helpful to watch as I learn how to load. I'd be in trouble without them. The manual I have (the visual products one) is very detailed but it's hard to imagine it just from text. Watching the vids and lots of practicing with my vinegar-y dummy load is getting me more comfortable for sure. Would you say that the loop help keeps a certain amount of tension that is necessary to keep the film registered correctly? Does it help the flow of the film as you're shooting? I've noticed sometimes when I load and run the film, there are small noises coming from inside the magazine. I assume its something I"ve done incorrectly since the sounds seem to disappear once I take the film out and start over. I feel like I'm so close to shooting my 1st reel of 16mm and I'm so excited but I really want to minimize the mistakes I'll make as I learn. Once it's loaded, this reel will basically be some test shots of new lenses and maybe some B roll footage. I've recently had this camera serviced and converted (ultra 16) and it really is so quiet when it runs. I've tested the decibels with an app on my iPhone and I think at about 8 feet away the microphone doesn't even pick up the sound of the camera running. I assume you have some 16mm footage shot with the NPR and I'd like to see it! Thanks again for your help! B
  7. Thanks so much aapo, your reply is very helpful. That info is basic but an important fundamental aspect of the camera. Yes they do recommend the 2 finger measurement, but also seem very insistent about an exact count of 12 frames in the loop. Im confused. I thought the only part of loading done in total darkness is the feed side. Is that incorrect? Otherwise its load the feed in darkness, close lid, flip, thread take up side, measure loop and thread into core ... all done in the dark.
  8. I'm ready to do some tests with my Eclair NPR camera and I have some questions after practicing loading the magazines... Obviously I'm missing something simple and I've spent some time searching yet haven't found the answers so please forgive the basic questions: 1) Can someone explain the importance of the "loop"? It's very specific about 12 images with 6 on each side. I don't think the manual I have explains why this is important and what will happen if the frame count of the loop is incorrect or if it's out of alignment. Will it effect the image? Will there be flickering? 2) Assuming the loop is important, why is it necessary to then press the film into the magazine? (thus reducing the loop, I count 8 frames after my loop is pressed in). The videos I've seen go to some length to detail exactly how the loop is formed... only to quickly say "and then when you're done you press it in and load it onto the camera..." Again please forgive my ignorance and thanks for your patience -B
  9. thanks for the post Dom. Maybe we're getting somewhere... I am wondering if someone took it apart, cleaned it, and reassembled it incorrectly or just poorly. Partly because one of the tiny screws that holds in the focus 'wings' just fell out with little to no provocation. Also, when I hold the lens tightly and lightly shake it, I can hear something rattling around inside. for what it's worth, here's some pics of the lens. Forgive the sizes (and my lack of manicure), I'm tired lol
  10. thanks Adam. I've sent quite a few emails today to multiple parties and I feel like your response is shedding some light. #2 I can see images on the paper when I put it behind the lens so I guess that's ok I hope it's not #3 since I just had the camera serviced and other lenses appear to have no problem #1 sounds interesting. I noticed that once the lens is mounted onto the camera, objects within 1 or 2 inches appear sharp (regardless of the setting of the focusing ring), while everything else is blurry. But that's if the rear end of the lens is very close to the film plane.
  11. so my issue is my Zeiss 8mm lens isn't focusing at all. Not clear, not sharp-- moving the focus ring does nothing at all. The focus ring moves smoothly and stops at both ends but nothing changes. Unfortunate since I was hoping to use it for a big project this week. Details: Lens: Zeiss 8mm with Arri standard mount Camera: Eclair NPR adapter: Calkovsky arri to c mount adapter The shop where I bought the lens is convinced it's the adapter, and while I still have a lot to learn about these things, it still seems like moving the focus ring should do something. Is this incorrect? At this point I'd be encouraged if adjusting the focus made it worse, just so I'd know something is happening. Calkovsky has been working with me trying to figure this out but we haven't got it figured out yet. He mentioned it's possible I might need a tiny tab to lock it in position. I have been able to at least get a clear image in the viewfinder if I hold the lens myself up to the camera maybe within a few millimeters of the mirror but that image does not change if the focus is set to infinity or to 12 inches. No changes at all. Any thoughts?
  12. Thanks for that Andries. You're right about the battery contacts. I should've realized that. When I remove the lens and look at the bare shutter while pressing the release, I can see something moving now, but only when I'm looking from a very specific angle. If I look straight through the front of the lens-less camera from a different angle I can see light coming through the viewfinder in back... and when I do that, no shutter movement can be seen. I'm hoping this discrepancy is the result of the beam splitter that I believe the Leicina has in its viewing system? Please forgive my naïveté but I'm nervous because this untested camera was forced into shooting 4 rolls during a recent location shoot (the reason for the delay in my reply) when my primary camera fell victim to condensation. I'm (obviously) still learning about this function on cameras but otherwise the camera seems fine from what I can see. I won it on eBay (body only) at what I thought was a very low price and my inner pessimist thinks something has to be wrong lol
  13. I just received a Leicina special and it appears to function from what I can tell. The film in the cart moves, etc etc. however... There's one test that's been recommended to super 8 camera buyers where you look straight into the camera and press the shutter release to see if the shutter movement is visible. This works on my rolei, my Nikon, but with my new Leicina special, I don't see that flicker when I do this test. I tried opening it up (to try the same test but from the opposite point of view) but I can't seem to get the motor running with it open. Is this normal? Or just a bad sign?
  14. I'm looking for a power source for my Eclair NPR 16mm camera and I think I'm starting to get a rough idea of what to look for (still open to suggestions tho) but one key question: does a higher frame rate require more volts? The manuals I've seen online suggest a 12 volt, 3-5 Amh battery to power the Perfectone motor but I've seen discussions about the motor stopping as soon as the FPS rate goes up. Someone who appeared more knowledgeable than myself said the higher frame rate would require higher voltage. Possibly up to 15 volts. However I've also read discussions where people warn against using a battery or power source that is rated higher than the suggested voltage for the motor. Any thoughts or experiences with this subject? Thanks
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