Hannes Famira
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Posts posted by Hannes Famira
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42 minutes ago, JB Earl said:
it just looks like a C-boom with a gobo arm on the end
I think he was referring to the two lights behind the ones you are describing. I am stumped as well.
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I am finally selling my F3. I hope it is ok to post this link to the eBay page? Please let me know if there is a preferred format:
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I am looking for the anamorphic rear adapter for my Lomo Foton zoom. Any pointers would be very welcome. Thanks!
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I ended up going with the Tilta focus grip on the left and a wooden KinoGrip with start/stop trigger for the Odyssey recorder on the right. I will need a lot of practice to make all this feel natural but I can already tell that this will really work for me. Thanks everybody for your advice! Much appreciated.
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Very late follow up: I finally bought an Odyssey 7Q+ and boy am I a happy camper. Thanks everybody for all your expert advice!
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I recently had the opportunity to directly compare the Dana dolly to a Dutti Dolly. There is no contest, the Dutti is large heavy and runs smoooooooth! It is small enough to fit in any trunk, seems pretty indestructible and you can run it with or without tracks. It will accept a whole range of different kinds of track and if memory serves it's priced lower than Proaim's doorway dolly. As Mark noted Proaim products are a bit hit and miss. In my experience they are great if you want things to be solid but not so great if you need refined engineering. Like Phil I have been working on DIY-ing my own dolly. It's too early to share pictures but I am very excited how it is shaping up. In that context: if anybody has a recommendation, I am looking for someone in NYC who would weld two parts together for me on the cheap.
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Check out this DIY rig I spotted on eBay a while ago. I like the concept and I am sure with a couple of bungies attached to a low-hat on a pancake box, suspended from the car's hand grips this could be easily emulated or even improved upon. Source: https://pin.it/2Ah0f2T
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Hey Duncan, if it hasn't found a new home yet, I am interested in the quick release plate!
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Oh wow, clearly I need to do a better job looking… Thanks Aapo!
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Does anybody make these safety cables but encased in a protective layer of clear plastic? I think I remember seeing it somewhere. The unprotected cables keep scratching up my gear. Thanks!
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On 12/2/2019 at 1:59 PM, Rickard Aall said:
I see! Thank you. I was a little quick on the trigger. One of the listings I was looking at appears to be for two cameras.
I’m thinking to use the Odyssey 7q as recorder, but it could be interesting if I’ll be going to the states sometime.
I just purchased a used Odyssey Q7+. Can anybody advise from experience what firmware I should install to best work with my Sony PMW-F3?
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Joseph, you are blowing my mind. This is exactly what I had hoped was out there. So much to learn now…
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Hello Joseph, would you mind expanding a little on the second option possibly with examples of products you mention for the Edison dimmer pack that has dmx as well as the wireless dmx dongle? This is all super interesting yet completely new to me. Would this solution work for dimmers that go up to 1500W for larger tungsten globes? Third follow up question: Could I run those DMX dongles from my iPad? Thanks so much.
On 3/5/2021 at 7:10 AM, Joseph Tese said:Aputure has made led practical bulbs with built in wireless technology. But if you want to dim incandescents, you can get a simple Edison dimmer pack that has dmx. Then put any wireless dmx dongle you’d like in there, and connect it to a board / whatever.
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I am thinking about a scene where everything is supposed to be bathed in warm morning light or immersed in sodium vapor yellow, like a strong stylistic slant to a scene's light temperature: What are some of the deciding factors wether to gel the lights or put a filter on the camera. Thanks for any input!
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Let me just start out saying that I am not a big fan of Proaim products in general. They seem clunky, heavy and are missing the sort of mechanical refinement that I am always looking for in my gear. This jib is an exception. Big, heavy and clunky are actually positive qualities in this case. It feels like a tractor. There is no play or slack in the joints. I found that once the jib is recklessly overloaded my heavy-duty Ronford&Baker tripod becomes the bigger problem, not the jib itself. I solved this issue by mounting it on fat, old Mitchell risers rather than on the tripod.
If the base stays level, the head stays level too and I have had no issue with that.
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Also check out the Proaim 10 Wave jib. New it's $680.00 and I have had mine for a couple of years. Your camera package has to be massive to make it jiggle. The worst thing about this monster is its carrying bag, which works but is just too soft sided for a heavy item like this:
https://www.proaim.ca/collections/jibs/products/proaim-10-wave-2-plus-telescopic-jib-arm-crane
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In camera support mass is your friend. See if you can find an old Ronford&Baker F7 on eBay. Here is one (completely overpriced):
I found one a while ago for $800 and had it serviced. Now it's as good as new. No weight limits, works underslung on a jib and I hear reports they even function under water.
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I have no idea what a crystal dome is either. Could I ask you to please share your findings.
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Taking measurements for a new (custom CNC) top plate:
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Hey everybody. I need to pick up a shot for which I am looking to borrow a crazy long zoom lens, just for one evening. Cine gears for a controlled creeping zoom (using a lens motor) and either PL or Nikon F-mount preferred. This is the missing, closing shot for my no-budget short. If you have the lens and would not mind hanging out on that hill in Sunset Park one early Winter evening, that would be tremendous. There is no rush. Sometime in November or even December would work. It would be nice to meet you and chat while we wait for the right light. I will bring my camera and everything else we need, including beers and possibly sandwiches? You will bring your lens. Just for this one shot: Cinemascope, it starts really close on a lit window and slowly, slowly keeps zooming out. First revealing facades of a row of buildings. Then you see the roofs of Brooklyn. But we keep going until the Manhattan skyline is revealed. It wouldn't hurt if there was some fog hanging between the skyscrapers that day. And finally the glow of sunset over New Jersey is revealed. Ideally I would be looking for a cine converted zoom with a filter thread of around 52mm (like any of my old Nikon primes) as I am planning to use my Schneider 2x anamorphic projection lens, which I used to shoot the rest of the project. Let me know if you are interested. Thanks!
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This is a very compelling argument. I was going for focus on the left but I have a very experienced operator friend who disagreed. He works mostly in TV (big camera on sticks) and he is used to the FIZ handle with all the buttons on the right.
So your point comes as a relief. I think this settles it for me. Thanks Satsuki!
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Very interesting. Thanks Aapo. So when I operate shoulder mounted with both hands on the grips you would tend to still use the left hand for focus?
Does anybody know how these lights were rigged on Phantom Thread?
in Grip & Rigging
Posted
Oh wow, yes, I see what you mean. What's a pigeon?