Bibhusan Basnet

Thanks Luigi !

Thanks for the explanation Simon !

Thanks a lot guys ! I'll take the lenses over to the old man's workshop to see if he can do it :) The seller included a 1.35 V battery along with the light meter. It's a VARTA V635PX Mercury cell. Do you think it'll give accurate readings ? The light meter is intended to be used with Reflex models as it's stated on the meter itself. I would really appreciate it if you could send me a digital copy of the manual Luigi :) My email address is: bibhusanbasnet@gmail.com I've been playing with the camera more and I've come up with a few more questions. I hope you'll help me with them :) 1. I was going through the Bolex manual, specifically trying to understand the variable shutter positions. The upper most position is where the shutter is open, for a shutter speed of 1/65th of a second at 24fps. However, I also see an adapted shutter reading to compensate for the light loss. I understand this theoretically but where should I apply this ? Suppose that I take a light meter reading of a scene, the shutter position is at the 1st position (the top most), I set the desired setting on my lens and I shoot. I should be good right ? Where do these adapted values come into play ? Further more, the manual states that when you choose the 2nd position one must compensate by opening the lens 1/2 a stop and while shooting on the 3rd position one must compensate by opening the lens a full stop. Is it all that I need to know ? And what is the 4th shutter position intended for ? 2. If I look closely at the light meter, I can see that the ASA and DIN values are offset very slightly. Is this normal ? 3. Do you have any experience shooting with Orwo film stock ? I have a few rolls of both UN54 and UN74. How well do these film stocks handle over exposure and under exposure ? I would really appreciate your observations. 4. I contacted Orwo regarding this same thing but I didn't really get the answer I was hoping for. However they said that the UN74 (ASA 400) film stock could be pushed up to 1600 ASA. Having shot only digital till now, I don't know if I understand this well. When shooting Raw with digital cameras, one can change ISO values in post production. A dimly lit scene could be brightened up in post production but you won't have the same dynamic range that is present at the base ISO of a particular camera system. Is it similar with film ? Do you lose the latitude when you push/pull film ? 5. Also what is the difference between pushing/pulling film during development and doing the same in post production ? What I mean to say is, can I develop the film normally and later choose to push/pull digitally ? Will I get the same results ?

Hi everyone, I finally received my Bolex H8 Rex 4 camera yesterday. I've also got a few rolls of Orwo film stock to play with. I've read the instruction manual that accompanied the camera but I'd like to know more before I roll my first can of film. 1. The camera has an Octameter attachment. When I look through the Octameter with the 5.5mm glass attachment, I can also see the remaining 2 lenses but this is not the case when I see through the viewfinder. It's a similar case when I switch to the 12.5mm setting on the Octameter, although it's not as bad as the 5.5mm setting. Will I end up with the remaining lenses on my final image if I use the 5.5mm lens ? 2. When I align the focus ring exactly at Infinity, I feel the image looks a tad bit soft. If I stop the ring a tiny increment before the Infinity mark, I feel the image looks sharper. Is it just because the viewfinder is a bit dim and it's affecting my judgement ? What should I go for when I'm focusing for infinity ? 3. I bought the camera off eBay and on a full wind the camera runs for around 30 secs at 24fps. So I'm guessing that the spring is healthy. 4. The lenses are clean but the focus rings are a bit tight. I am not planning to do any fancy focus pulls with the camera but I would like to have it lubricated. We have an old gentleman in Kathmandu who has been repairing cameras for decades now. However, I'm not sure if he's ever worked on these lenses. Do you think I'd be safe if I asked him to lubricate the focus ring and clean it up cosmetically ? 5. I played with the Gossen Bolex light meter this morning and I think I've got it right. Haven't compared the readings with other light meters but I'd love to go through a manual. Does anyone have a digital copy for the light meter ? 6. The camera looks good but there are dust specs on the metal parts of the camera. What should I use to clean these ? And what would I need to clean the leather ? I think that's it for the time being. I'll definitely have more questions once I develop my first roll of film. I would really appreciate if you guys had any tips before I shoot my first roll of film :) Thanks in advance :)

Hey Luigi, Do you have a manual for the Gossen Bolex Light meter ?

Thanks a lot ! Just out of curiosity, would this Variable ND work ? https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1347944-REG/aurora_aperture_pxnd2k_dji_p_dji_phantom_nd16_2000_variable.html

So a filter with a 32mm diameter would work with all 3 lenses Simon ? I'm still confused :unsure:

I've recently bought a Bolex H8 with 3 prime lenses from eBay. I'm going to receive the camera in about a week's time. According to the seller, the camera doesn't have a slot for filters behind the lens so I'll have to use drop in filters. Since I don't have the camera with me I have no idea as to what filter size these primes use. Is the filter size same for all three lenses ? Do I need an adapter ? Any online stores or eBay listings of ND filters for these cameras ? I would really appreciate your suggestions.

Edit: Doesn't have to be a Rex 3/4 model. The 1st Rex model should be fine as well. I need a camera that's in good working condition because I want to use it for a short film :) Thanks.

Looking for a Bolex H8 Rex 3/4 with prime lenses and an Octameter. You can also reach me at : bibhusanbasnet@gmail.com

Hey there, I wanted to know if external recorders from Atomos or Odyssey allowed users to set a custom crop and capture only the desired image area. Is it possible ? For example a 4:3 image from within a default 16:9 image that the camera outputs. Thanks.

Thanks guys ! So I'm assuming that a properly developed/scanned film in the hands of the right colorist can yield the desired look for my project. However, I still have a few queries. I'll try and break them down. 1. If I wanted a consistent tone/grain structure throughout the film, would you advice on using the same film stock throughout? 2. Would you recommend using Kodak 500T if the desired look is on the grainier side ? 3. Researching on different Kodak films I also came across stuff that was shot with KAHL Super 8 film stock. I would use KAHL throughout the film but their highest ASA rated film goes only up to 125 which would be a nightmare if I had to shoot interiors or low-light settings. Am I inviting trouble during post production if I try and mix both ? Here's an example of the KAHL 125 ASA film:

The film was shot from 1950 to 1961

David, Your observation on the stock used ?

Hi everyone, Is it possible to guess what film stock was probably used on this particular film ? If it's shot on a discontinued film stock, do you have any idea what current film stocks could come close to the one used here ? From my amateur observation, I see that the film has 2 distinct tones ... A very saturated and warm look in some sections where the whites are pushed towards orange and the rest of the footage where the whites look a lot more intact. Do you think it's 2 different film stocks? Or could it be the same stock reacting to different lighting conditions? I also have no clue whatsoever on what format this could have been shot on :) Is it 16mm or 8 ? I'm working on a short film at the moment and I am trying to replicate a vintage look. I would really appreciate your suggestions :)