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Joey Kopanski

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About Joey Kopanski

  • Rank
    New

Profile Information

  • Occupation
    Cinematographer
  • Location
    Atlanta

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  1. Went back to the location today and tried some kino t12 tubes in the fixtures. The fixture accepted the tubes but there was still a noticeable flicker. I think we're just going to have to rig our own lights overhead instead of replacing the bulbs inside the existing fixtures.
  2. I'm shooting a music video inside a restaurant with drop ceiling (location) and would like to create practical overhead lighting (like this) to give us more freedom with our framing. In the example above -- it looks like they popped out tiles where they needed light, laid out a large cut of diffusion across several tiles and placed individual fluorescent tubes (astera, quasar or kino?) on each rectangle. What do you think? Can anyone provide any helpful ideas on how to achieve lighting like this on a modest budget? The restaurant also has several 3-bank T12 fluorescent fixtures already installed. I'd like to replace these fixtures with T12 kino tubes but the location is pretty dated and I'm worried about flickering because of old ballasts. How can I tell if the ballast will produce a flicker? I looked around the fixture and didn't find any specs printed on the side.
  3. I'm shooting a short narrative that involves several scenes of two people talking at interior doorways. I've attached photos below to give you a sense of the framing as well as photos of our actual location. Our lighting package includes a couple aladdin LEDs, a leko and a skypanel s-60. My plan is to use the aladdin's to key the man from camera left and possibly tape a bounce to the door to get a little return on his fill side. I'm unsure if that plan will work due to the tight space and won't be able to scout this location in person until the day before our shoot next week. Do you guys have any advice/better ideas on how to light these characters in the doorway? Concerns: We will be cutting on the action of opening the door so hanging something overhead in the doorframe doesn't seem possible since we will have to capture the action of the door opening. That is why I'm thinking keying from the side might be better. Limited on space (see photos below). I'm worried about sneaking lights too close and making it feel too sourcey. Any advice would be much appreciated, thank you!
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