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Joseph Tese

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About Joseph Tese

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  • Occupation
    Gaffer
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    North Carolina

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    www.joetese.com

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  1. Ended up making a slit into some plywood. Was originally going to throw a bolt through it, but chain vide grip was more secure. Worked great!
  2. Thanks for the reply JD. space is pretty big. Maybe I could attempt to speed rail between the brick columns, but there’s not a lot of surface there. What if i “speed C” on one of the brick columns?
  3. What if I had a cartellini like this, or something similar where the threaded rod was open/at the endhttps://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1482663-REG/cardellini_2r_right_angle_clamp.html/?ap=y&gclid=CjwKCAjw_-D3BRBIEiwAjVMy7IFtXp5QBix9UsLz4JUh04SszhICCX7VkgTuQxIBeNw7IF8cbUlS9BoCfOUQAvD_BwE&lsft=BI%3A514&smp=y then, place the rod end through one of the eye bolts, and I can put two washers on either side of the eyebolt and secure them with a locknut. Thoughts?
  4. See the two eye bolts in pic below? I want to rig a 1k tungsten between them. I was thinking of putting a piece of steel pipe/tube (small diamoeter that would fit) inside, then just cardellini to the fixtures the only thing is the tube would most likely swing or rotate inside the bolts, relying the positioning of the fixture to “rest on the wall”. I would rather have a more secure and confident way to angle the light as needed. Do you have any suggestions?
  5. I think this might have answered my question? http://www.ocon.com/inspiration/labs/rod-standards-explained/
  6. Hello, I have a temporary solution for a shoot.. I was able to mount the C200 to a red rail system.. Odd right? But are different rail systems made for different cameras to get the lens to the standard height that will accept a mattebox? My fear is that the c200 is not hte right height to accept a mattebox correctly. I don't have a box to test right at the moment, nevertheless I think good knowledge to know. Thanks for the help - Usually I stick to building light systems and not cameras :)
  7. Wow! Very interesting stuff. Thanks for sharing. It’d be interesting to see some third party tests and techniques to see how that’s practical and its effects on commonly used lights.
  8. I have actually have recently been thinking about this a lot - And since there's so many softpanels on the market, I've been wondering why there wasn't at least a third party focusing lens like this offered for common form factors, or why it's not a standard offering from the panels themselves. The first thing I think of is Arri's intensifier, which essentially does the same thing. It tightens up the beam angle and concentrates the amount of light in front of the fixture. To me, the advantage here is not only the "increased amount" of light, but also probably greater efficiency (less-light loss) than what you'd get with a grid/honeycomb. Generally, I think it may be the case you don't get as much control as a grid. Aadyntech uses the same concept for their punch fixture, to achieve similar versatility as you'd want with a fresnel, via plastic focusing lenses. https://www.adorama.com/atpchlen055.html
  9. Here’s my take: The older LEDs had more distinct differences in color and quality, but now most reputable lighting fixtures are much closer in these areas, where most could be used on the same set and in the same scene (Usually for different purposes.) example, if the inventory allows, I usually have the same brand for scene modeling, and same for backlight, and same for key, etc. If combining for the same “source” - The diffusion will certainly help blend them together, especially if they’re covering the same area of the diff. However, you’re also talking about blending a natively soft fixture with a 300d, which can be hardish. Generally speaking, I can see how one would want the same type of optics blowing through the same diff to get consistent shadows (I certainly would).
  10. This might be a noobish question, but it is asked to better understand how color rendition quality of LEDs (and I guess others as well) affect the luminance/quality of color values on objects. For example, I've always assumed that because of lacking R9 (and similar) values, skin tones will not show up "well". What specifically does it result in? A literal lack of color information resulting in lower saturation? Digital pixelation? Lower luminance for certain values? Let's say I want to photograph an object or talent knowing I want to convert it to B&W in post. If I use the worst kind of LEDs imaginable (missing Red values, spiked greens, etc) to light talent, will there be lower or brighter areas depending on the colors on the object/talent? OR - does light (Regardless of color quality) illuminate the object without bias, and when converting to B&W, it makes the original light source quality irrelevant.
  11. Like 10 of them to meet the voltage? 😂
  12. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/554344-REG/Manfrotto_120_120_Converter_Plate_for.html/specs It looks like this is essentially the reverse of the Acratech one. I believe it has the 3/8" female instead of the male, so you can use a reducer on that side and have 1/4" on both ends. Not sure about the height though
  13. Hello, Usually I'm operating lights only with AC. But want to be prepared for mobile applications requiring more DC power The lights I often come across have DC ranges from 14.4v, 26v, 48v (I think the skypanels are the only ones that use 48?, but usually powered by 26v bricks and the plate has a transformer?? If that's the case that's interesting because I didn't know a transformer could double the voltage like that) Basically, what's the most common DC solutions available? AB has a larger brick solution, the Cine VCLX to switch voltage. I like solutions like this because it means it will be more universal and more WH. Block battery seems to market similar solutions but heavier and larger WH. https://blockbattery.com/block-batteries/ So far I'm liking the block batteries, but wanted to hear any other user's thoughts. Additionally, it'd be really cool to get a super high WH solution with an inverter, to power larger wattage 120v AC only lights...like a j800. Any precautions there? I would also like to see if anyone DIY'd a bunch of deep cell batteries and inverter to a dolly and would like to see their build!
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