Joseph Tese

Adding to Canon's EF suspension and focus on RF, I guess the assumption is that Canon will make all the cameras "above" C70 to being EF/PL Swappable, and the lenses to PL. Speculation.

I fall into the category you speak of, of being so used to the Canon EOS line and their lenses. I did some self mental abuse comparing both the FX6 and C70. Wish I could have them in front of me, but fell back to what I felt confident in, the EOS line. I've never had any issues with the C300 and C200 AF ability, was always impressed. But, like we just pointed out, that's been my world - not able to compare it side by side to other systems. Ultimately, I sometimes toggle to AF for shoulder mounted scenarios, or for run and gun B-Roll and tracking people while handheld.

Thanks for the reply. Considering the budget and type of work, and in light of your reply, I am shying away from the cinezoom idea and heading back to the regular af/photography lens market. Again, concerning AF, I also assume Canon glass is going to be optimized greatly for Canon camera's AF abilities. The RF lenses look like great quality, but I'm a bit confused by Canon's decision to suspend EF lens creation? Especially knowing, that the C300mkiii is a great partner to the C70, since they share the same sensor. The C300mkiii I believe can never swap to an RF mount - I think that would requi

Good Morning! On behalf of a new corporate video department, I am helping build the equipment and workflow. As you may imply by the name corporate (or may not), and highly considering the C70, the type of work can and will vary in scope , where versatility is a huge consideration (run and gun single/2person operation, with the potential to evolve into more complicated setups). The 15.5-47 Canon CineZoom caught my eye (which had a crazy price drop in the past year or so). Then I discovered the 18--80, which is more of a hybrid lens between DSLR and CineLenses. The 18-80 is a manageable wei

Matthew’s options are perfectly right. If you value a complete “out of the box” solution vs diying cables and batteries (which is not difficult btw), you can get a battery/inverter combo like this..https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1437588-REG/interfit_nom100_nomad_portable_battery_pack.html/amp One of those nomad batteries will power a dedo for about an hour. So if longevity is needed without having to swap, a deep cycle battery(s) with a much higher w/h rating is needed.

Efficacy (Lumen to watt ratio) of LEDs is constantly changing and getting better over time. Every LED manufacturer has different efficacy ratings, meaning a 300watt from one brand could be brighter or less bright from another company boasting the same/similar wattage. This fact alone means it’s better to judge light by ftcandles , lux etc.

You can experiment with a simple wooden frame (or two stacked an inch or so apart like the picture). Maybe you can shear different levels of light diff by running a blade through them vertically, to mimick varying intensities of light. You can probably dirty the diff as well. But, why not just make the real thing? Pick up an actual cheap window with a frame pattern you like and also has the glass and dirty it up? There’s spray that is meant to stick to windows to make it seem frosted. Maybe that mixed with little particles (sand, etc). I’m sure it will take some experimenting. A good art dep

Intellytech has generally worked well for me in the past, when careful about how I implement them. Mainly used the f165 bicolor fresnels. Cons: The build quality is okay, the warmer cct seems a little off. I also noticed (to the eye) ugreen renditions at super low dimming percentage (like 1%), but would like to do testing and comparisons with a color meter. Other than that, it’s pretty great for what you get at the price point. Dont know about the lights you’re looking at, they could be newer and an improvement color quality wise.

Yes, you can lower the lights to get “more power”, but at a potential compromise in a desired aesthetic. You can only push it too far before it enters the frame, fall off is unnatural, too “toppy”, etc

Ended up making a slit into some plywood. Was originally going to throw a bolt through it, but chain vide grip was more secure. Worked great!

Thanks for the reply JD. space is pretty big. Maybe I could attempt to speed rail between the brick columns, but there’s not a lot of surface there. What if i “speed C” on one of the brick columns?

Thank you all very much.

What if I had a cartellini like this, or something similar where the threaded rod was open/at the endhttps://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1482663-REG/cardellini_2r_right_angle_clamp.html/?ap=y&gclid=CjwKCAjw_-D3BRBIEiwAjVMy7IFtXp5QBix9UsLz4JUh04SszhICCX7VkgTuQxIBeNw7IF8cbUlS9BoCfOUQAvD_BwE&lsft=BI%3A514&smp=y then, place the rod end through one of the eye bolts, and I can put two washers on either side of the eyebolt and secure them with a locknut. Thoughts?

See the two eye bolts in pic below? I want to rig a 1k tungsten between them. I was thinking of putting a piece of steel pipe/tube (small diamoeter that would fit) inside, then just cardellini to the fixtures the only thing is the tube would most likely swing or rotate inside the bolts, relying the positioning of the fixture to “rest on the wall”. I would rather have a more secure and confident way to angle the light as needed. Do you have any suggestions?

I think this might have answered my question? http://www.ocon.com/inspiration/labs/rod-standards-explained/