Steve Cutler

Find out any info on this? I have a similar looking head except each axis has 4 settings for resistance, or 1 setting that has no resistance and 3 progressive levels of resistance.

Hi all I've got a technical question -
I'm trying to decipher whats going on in this cool spot shot by Kasper Tuxen, specifically the kind of 'non crystal-sync' looking exposure variation or flickering that is occurring around 1:05 and again from about 1:13 through to 1:25.

Have you seen this before? Is it as simple as they shot it with an older wind up 16mm camera without crystal sync or is it something more complicated? Maybe a modified krasnogorsk? Is this effect recreatable with a production level 16mm cam like the SR3 or is this a special homebrew made using an old toy 16mm camera?

Would love to get your input,

cheers

Steve

5 hours ago, aapo lettinen said:

the video tap and rebuild raise the price, typically the LTR and Arri SR1/2 seem to be between 4k and 11k depending on the accessories and the condition of the camera. A buyer really needing a camera for actual shooting would surely negotiate a final price which works best for both parties.

the LTR is pretty good camera after all. of course the xtr and prod are better but the price-quality ratio is pretty good on the LTR and the price difference is pretty signifiant... with current prices one can shoot a 20min movie with the price difference.

"needing more crystal speeds" is not a reason to pay double the price for a more expensive camera model like SR3, one can just buy one of my 50-speed crystal generators for 300 bucks and attach it to the LTR to get all the crystal speeds one would need

True indeed, an LTR and a 416 all look the same on the other side!

IMO the LTR 54 is the entry level professional grade 16mm camera (the SR1 is just too loud, although I'm sure usable if you can get around that) you really don't need anything more than the crystal sync, videotap potential, and a handful of variable speeds, although the perks of an XTR are definitely a bonus and I would love to own one some day.

Getting rid of some old gear and wanted to clear this filter out, looking for $200 OBO.

pictures here: https://ibb.co/album/rxtSJL

Located in Toronto but can ship, let me know if you have any questions or want more photos

thanks!

Steve

Can't buy the lens but love watching your vids Olle, you're a talented guy

In Montreal you've got Mels (formerly vision globale), world class lab and scanning with all the bells and whistles like rushes but on the pricey side.

Toronto has Niagara custom lab which is absolute dogsh*t top to bottom in my personal experience (and many of my friends): Old chem, no guaranteed timeline, dusty dry box, low quality scan, bad service etc. Plus they'll charge you out the wazoo.

For the past couple years I've been sending all my film to Cine-lab across the border in MA. No issues and great quality stuff at a much better rate but similar quality to MELS.

---

For s16 gear rental in Toronto you've got LIFT (Liaison of Independent Filmmaking Toronto). You have to pay a fee to join and then you get access to their gear at cheap rates (in the great tradition of north american film co-ops). They have several aatons and some good 16mm lenses, including some bayonet mount mki superspeeds and some Angie zooms.

I think some of the bigger houses rent s16 gear as well like SR3s and 416s and whatnot but at that point you're looking at some pretty steep rates.

hope this was helpful!

1 hour ago, Dennis Toeppen said:

Childish post does nothing to advance discussion. Why don't you head over to Reddit? You'll fit right in.

you should do stand up

like Goku and Vegeta in here

I answered this question in my post - they have a bad reputation for taking weeks and weeks to ship out

bump

Anybody got some of this stuff that they don't need anymore? I know all about its issues but just can't get enough of those swampy colours!

Would prefer to buy secondhand as Orwo seems like they're not great about shipping things out in a timely manner

cheers

Steve

Hi all, putting a project together and searching for any second hand vision 3 freezer stock - also looking to pickup a bit of 5294 for stills tests.

cheers!

Steve

9 hours ago, Thomas Moreau said:

Panavision sues Dennis Toeppen

https://caselaw.findlaw.com/court/us-9th-circuit/1286135.html

legendary troll

On 1/18/2022 at 2:56 PM, Guillaume Cottin said:

It’s not hard to run stuff up to 300W on battery but beyond that it’s a bit of a head scratcher unless you can put a hand on 28.8V  high load V-mount batteries, but they’re hard to source at a rental house.
The few times I had a 600d on battery I used 14.4V regular camera batteries, I think they were 180Wh. The bigger the better. I had two batteries on each side with shark fins, so four in total in order to spread the load and not damage the batts. Still, it only lasted around 30mn it will shut down above 50%. It works for a quick shot (which is what we needed) but is not a perfect solution and as you can see the math and real world don’t always match.
I recommend to only use this setup for 300w lights. Same for a VCLX, even at 28V you’re limited to roughly 300W (12A) of load.

For a 600d currently I’d recommend using a good power bank such as the ecoflow River Pro which will run it for roughly 50mn at ≈90% power. They make a higher end model too, the Delta. Not really elegant, since you’re converting DC to AC and back to DC, but currently the most plug-and-play reliable option IMO.

Think this one would work?

https://www.long-mcquade.com/232511/Pro-Audio---Recording/Signal-Processors/EcoFlow/DELTA-Portable-Power-Station.htm

Lots of shit eating scammers out there

On 6/24/2022 at 11:52 AM, Adriano Cimino said:

Okay, thanks, I am exactly in the same position, trying to adapt a cheap and light filter holder to those lenses. I'll most possibly take your route, then.

Did the 49.5X0.75mm work for you Adriano?

Thanks Aapo, I already have the 9 pin cable and an arduino so - other than potentially shorting out the circuitry in my camera - I'm not too worried about incurring any additional costs (not counting the playtime spent working on it).

Unlike you I'm not looking to manufacture units for sale, I'll just incorporate the computer and screen into the 3d printed housing of my DIY videotap/battery mount solution that I've designed for my LTR.

cheers and please let me know if you find out anything more about the 9pin logic!

On 9/26/2019 at 5:07 AM, Bernhard Kipperer said:

I am looking for some information (Google did not help much yet) on what the Arri 16SR expects to receive at the Fischer socket pin 8 "external variable speed control".

I understand that grounding pin 5 to pin 1(signal ground) one can input an external signal on pin 8 to use different speeds besides the usual 24fps.

But what voltage is expected at pin 8?

What type of signal is expected, a sine wave at the frequency the camera shall run or a multiple of it? Or even a square wave, toggled on/off where the frequency of that sets the camera's speed?

Any information will help me a lot, thank you very much!

Hey Bernhard, did you ever find out any info about this?

Thanks Aapo, yes I read the start pin needs to be shorted to ground here:

Very curious as to how to control the rest of it. Measuring the footage seems simple as the camera is outputting a signal and one just needs to write some code that detects the output and acts accordingly. As for the frame rate control I'm still searching for that info. If at all possible would like to avoid burning out the boards on my camera but these are still highly protected industry secrets I guess. Hard info to find!

On 5/2/2020 at 12:09 PM, Evan Walsh said:

Aaton's require continuous contact closure to run.

The rocker switch is a simple mom-off-on type of switch similar to a microforce run switch. The momentary side just briefly connects the start pin to ground which phases the camera. The on side of the switch  closes the circuit and holds it until the switch is moved back to the neutral position which allows the camera to run instead of just phase.

This is the case for most of the Aaton's, 12v Arri film camera's and Panaflex cameras.

In the case of the XTR Prod, Xtéra and Penelope, Preston MDR's support a continues run/stop from the 8pin Lemo on the camera. 

I'm in the process of making a converter box for my Aaton that will allow momentary run/stop commands to work from a wireless follow focus. I'd be happy to share the results with you when it is finished. 

Hi Evan, wanted to follow up on this post as I'm looking to make a similar controller to interface with my LTR7.
How did your remote start/stop feature work out?

cheers

Steve

On 3/16/2023 at 3:42 PM, aapo lettinen said:

Hi! I haven't had possibility to test it yet and I decided not to build the 45-speed controller just yet because there were no one seriously interested in it and it was a bit too expensive to manufacture. Maybe making a slightly different product as a kickstarter project but it really needs to be pre ordered and fully pre paid to be possible to make in the first place, can't afford to throw 5k into a project if it's not guaranteed to get at least some of it back and the firmware is really difficult on the 45 speed design so frankly speaking don't have time to write it either before the Summer ?

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I don't see any reason why the frequency input of the LTR would not work so probably it is fine I believe. Should work fine as a hobby project if you have experience making precise frequency generators and have lots of spare time

Did you make a prototype?

I'm looking for more info of how you would go about interacting with the electronics - i.e. do I give power to the 'start' pin and for ex. 1200hz to the 2400hz pin at the same time if I want it to go at 12fps? or do I just send square waves directly to the 2400hz pin without anything else? Curious to know if you've played around with the controls and how this plug functions.

On 9/7/2022 at 10:52 AM, aapo lettinen said:

I will make some tests with the external speed input in October or November. If it seems to work correctly, it would not be too much work for me to modify my 45-speed "VariCr External Control" controller (originally designed for CP16R) to work with the LTR as I would just need to change the firmware a little bit and make a adapter cable so that it can be connected to the LTR. I would target the price range of about 350usd+shipping for the controller and the cable.

if anyone would be interested in this option, let me know beforehand as I have tons of different projects in development and I will prioritize them based on how much interest they gain and how likely it is that I will get my own money back from any individual project ?

Hey Aapo, curious about how your setup worked out. Were you able to confirm that the information in the email was correct?

I'm thinking of trying to build something like this too with an arduino.

Hey Nima, very interested in this as I am pursuing the same course,

Your prototype video is down but I'd love to see what your setup looked like if you still have it!

cheers

Steve

I'm on the lookout for a 16mm s16 superspeed mk1,

shoot me a DM if you have one you're trying to get rid of

thanks!

Hi all - I'm looking to find out what size the threads are on the original mk1 s16 superspeeds for the purposes of buying step up rings to make them all a uniform 80mm.

From diving into an old cinematography.com thread I've found that the 25mm and 16mm have 58mm front threads but as for the 12 and 9.5 I'm not sure.

Does anyone have this info and can anyone confirm that 58mm is right for the 25 and 16?

thanks!

Steve