Pablo Cruz Villalba

On 1/29/2021 at 2:02 PM, Martin Baumgarten said:

Hi, KODAK 4X 7277 was discontinued ages ago.   So unless it has been stored frozen all this time since it was new......it will most certainly have suffered age effects, most notably age fog.   This will prevent the film from a satisfactory reversal processing...although you could attempt it on a small piece of film to see how it responds.  Usually, if processed reversal, even with age time compensation in the First Developer, the film will still yield weak extremely low contrast images with cloudiness (mottling).    For such old film, the best approach is processing it as a Negative, and use a high contrast strong developer to counter the age fog which will yield low contrast.  If using D-76, use it straight not diluted.  I would recommend something more similar to D-19, but I recommend doing some tests on small pieces of the film, to avoid waste.

   I loved using this film back in the day, before it was discontinued in the 1980s.  For such a high speed film it had great contrast, good tones, and the grain was very nice, though coarser than Tri-X of course.   If only room temperature stored all these years, it will have lost nearly half it's film speed rating, but then, if processing it as Negative, you would half the normal film speed rating of ASA/ISO 400 to E.I/ISO 200.........now since it is so old, a better starting point would probably be E.I./ISO 100 and do normal development for Negative.  Dektol is a B&W Photo Paper Developer, but it can be used in a variety of ways of course....making it then more similar to the old Polydol Developer.   If using that, try a 1:1 dilution ratio and process at 68F for 6 to 7 minutes.  

    I do recommend shooting a gray card (or white board) and metering for that, and slating it, since you really want to shoot some over and under frames from the meter reading, in half-stop increments.  If you have a gray scale chart, shoot that as well.   If you have the capability to read out the optical film density after processing, and bracket enough single frame shots that you slated so you'll know the exposure rate for each.....you could also plot out a graph to see how the film is responding, as well as know the maximum density and the minimum density.   Once you complete your tests, you'll be better equipped to actually use the film in a predictable way for whatever you desire to film.

Good luck and best regards.

Martin I've been trying to develop as negative but I just get a black film. Should I bleach the film before developing? Is it black because of the antihalliation backing? Thanks!

WTB Shogun 7 or Shogun inferno. Best if it include SSD.

I can develop it in Mexico City in caffenol. I sent a DM.

If you travel to Mexico city, Labtank can scan it for you with retroscan

Hello. I want to buy an FS5 or FS7. Any sellers around?

HI. I want to buy a Sony fs7 in good condition.

Hello everybody,

I'm concerned about some bad results I'm getting while developing color film. I develop ECN-2 and C-41. I make bleach with potassium ferricyanide and potasium bromide and fixer with Sodium Thiosulfate and Potassium Metabisulfite. The C41 developer I buy it from Kodak, the ECN-2 I prepare it. Since I make this solutions I'm getting this green color shifts. I don't know if it has to do with agitation, temperature or chemical exhaustion. I have made tests but I can't get it.

Do you still sell them by any chance?

Do you have 100ft spools?

FOMAPAN R100 as negative. With the regular first development time I got very bad results. With 35% of the time I got better results but unuseable. Yes, Foma should be developed reversal.

35% of the time:

On 8/6/2019 at 8:45 PM, Robert Houllahan said:

Tri-X and Orwo stocks develop really nicely and at the same time/temps in a continuous process or as XX neg.

Foma needs a bit of a different setup as its emulsion tens to be a bit softer and more hydroscopic so drying times area bit longer.

XX Neg looking good has allot to do with what chemistry it is developed in and we did allot of tests with chemistry when we ran the 1985 S16mm film and the Loui CK 35mm film to get the most pleasing grain results.

I usually Develop fomapan R100 8 min dektol 1:1 for reversal. How many minutes do you think I should develop for negative? 5? 3? Is the bleaching before developing really necessary?

I think that when that happened you didn't wash your bleach completely or your clearing bath was exhausted. The bleach residues mixed with fixer might destroy the emulsion. This is just a supposition. It has never happen to me. I work constantly with FOMA.

I would recommend buying just one and making a test at ASA6. I usually overexpose 3 stops very expired vision stock. However EXR is older ?

Robert, thanks for your answer.

Hello. I need to attach a motor to a bolex H8 Rex4 converted to double super 8. I want to use the ESM motor that one would normally use for an H16. However I have the question. Would it suit the bolex H8Rex4 or would it harm the camera as an H8 run half of the frame as a H16 would do?

You have to put the lens in the middle position, not on the uppermost. Then I guess it is better to see through the lens viewfinder. It might be a bigger image. However you can also use the other one. My advise is to sell that zoom and get prime lenses. Take advantage of the reflex!

Overexpose 1/3 of a stop.

How much for it?

I just got a non reflex bolex and I want a wide angle lens for it. Does anyone sell a 10mm or a 16mm? Shipping to Mexico

Hello.How can I distiguish an energetic BW developer from a developer that's not energetic?

I need an energetic developer, as diluted as I can for Plus X 7276 and 4X 7277. What are your suggestions?

Hello again.

Someone told me that I could develop black and white and then add 7ml of citric acid to the fixer and let it rest for 15 min. What does the citric acid does. Is it necessary?

This is an ME-4 stock. I also heard that you have to use a hardner to develop in c41. Does anyone know a solution to cross process? I have no access to E-6.

I have a roll of 7256. Can you please of explain a little bit more about the paraformaldehide pre-hardening bath and c41 chems (as negatives). Did you try to develop as black and white negative?

This is ASA 12

Scanned frame:

Edited quickly (I don't know how to use photoshop very well):

I am very bad at Photoshop, but this is a quick edit.