Tyler Fukuda

Hi everyone, I recently picked up an Angenieux 5.9mm/1.8 in B-mount and noticed that when mounting the lens onto the camera (Arriflex 16BL), the entire rear mount shifts about 5°. I’m wondering if anyone knows the best way to tighten down the rear mount? I see there is a Knurled ring at the rear of the lens and a slotted retaining ring which sits directly behind that ring. I can physically spin the knurled collar ring clockwise and it seems to loosen the mount and the opposite way naturally tightens it… but no matter how tight that ring is, it doesn’t seem to hold the mount enough to reduce potential play. Any ideas?

Hey all! Does anyone have intel on some of the sharper Arri B-Mount lenses? Especially the Zooms? I’ve got a copy of an Angenieux 12-120 and i’d say it’s fairly sharp but wanting a bit more. I also hear that Standard Mount lenses can work on B-mount (but not all) for flange depth clearance. Thank you!

Have an update regarding my electronics issue. 1) I was finally able to obtain a working BLE motor from Willie Schmitz. He's absolutely awesome and communication with him was wonderful. Very glad we crossed paths -- It's currently in route from Germany. I will have a backup motor incase this one sh**s the bed. 2) While it's in service, it was quote $650 to repair, so I went ahead and am having them finish up the electrical issues. Very excited to get this camera back up and running again as it's supposed to be...

Vincent, This is actually INCREDIBLY helpful and I will follow up with you in the future regarding your entire pipeline for this build. I am in the process of building a motor for mine (with help from a friend of course) In hopes that more modern solutions can troubleshoot the lack of available motors left in the world. I love how small your motor nicely fits to the camera body. Keep up the good work and can't wait to see it complete! - Tyler

I believe it’s Amphenol 165-13 9-pin for the 16BL. I just don’t see any data sheets that tell you which wires need to be soldered where for 4-pin xlr

Hey folks! looking to purchase a few items. 1) Magazine Blimp / Barney: These are leather and come in either black or white with ‘arriflex’ stamped on the side. 2) Magazine port (body side) lid. 3) Magazine loop protector shield 4) Power cable to 4-pin XLR 5) Spare BLE motor 6) Power switch box: I believe you can attach these to a panhandle. Could probably fabricate one myself also. LMK if you have any of these items! Thank you!!

Well there ya go. Honestly you could probably get away with purchasing a few of these and they'd still be cheaper than anything modern. I think it could also be handy to find someone who repairs electronics to diagnose a broken one so if it goes down, maybe you replace a small component and viola! you're fixed

Hey Steve, So after some attempts to fix it myself with the help from a friend, it was more than likely that the board had a fault in one of it's components and that i'd need to purchase a motor or decide to build one myself. While deciding between all these options, I was contacted by Richard Bennett who runs Cinema Engineering here in Los Angeles. He was more than happy to work on it for me and has an electronics engineer that was willing to perform a diagnostic on it. So I ended up handing it off to him for repairs and have yet to hear back for further instruction. It's been 3-4 days now? This was the quickest way to deal with this problem as I knew I'd find it very difficult to get a replacement motor and to build one was going to take quite a bit of time as i've never done such a task before. As of today, I have been able to find someone who is willing enough to sell me a motor. They live in Germany though so I'm waiting for them to get back to me. The price seems fair and I may be able to snag a Type B viewfinder in the same purchase!

This is a fantastic meter and I keep one as a back up. I like and have gotten used to my L608 which has become my go to meter. It’s also combo which comes in handy when you need the spot so I’m not pulling out a separate meter. What I hate most about the Gossen is that the lumisphere is on the top, which makes it really awkward to point towards camera as you are looking down at the meter or you were turning at 90° on its side. But I agree with you in the null system in which you can just turn the dial and know how many stops you are over or under. I don’t think there is anything modern that has this type of system, but once you get used to the newer stuff you sort of forget about using the older meter anyhow

Hi everyone, Since i’ve spent the better half of the month dealing with some electronics issues with my 16BL, I was able to obtain some wiring diagrams. In case this helps any future tinkers or technicians, I will link this here. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xIfWY-wM81fHhlr_F4Tjy83C77BO-rlV/view?usp=drivesdk

One more question @Jarin Blaschke I attended your Q&A last night at the Kodak house and you mentioned about camera movement wanting to take on a more "classic" approach. Were there any films Rob and yourself watched that demonstrate this type of approach? Clearly all the moves are very calculated and precise -- I imagine this had a lot to deal with the cranes/remote heads you were using.

My apologies! Let me know if that has fixed it.

UPDATE: I spoke with Andrew at AZ Spectrum in NYC. I believe he works primarily on older film cameras.. Anyway, he says that a common problem with these cameras is that within the motor, there is a magnetic disc (which I believe acts like a Hall Sensor) that sends a signal pulse by "disrupting" via it's magnetic field each time the motor spins a rotation. In the motor if you see the photos, it's that silver object positioned at about 7 o'clock. He said that over time the magnetic field becomes weak and no longer is able to create a pulse, so he suggested I either introduce a new magnet by replacing or just physically sticking on on there in order to mimic this effect. I will try this either today or tomorrow when i'm in a position to plug this into a battery as I don't own one.

Hey Vincent, thank you for your reply A wiring diagram would very helpful to me and I imagine that they are very difficult to come by. In all honestly, I will need to get up to speed regarding this technical information as I don't have a background in electronics -- but i'm willing to give it effort to learning so.

After a bit of research, it seems this is an ARRI motor and is called a BLE motor. Apparently one of the 3 options ARRI supplied for the 16BL. Now my next question might be, does this motor NEED a crystal sync unit to be attached in order for it to be 'governed'?