Jump to content

imran qureshi

Basic Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Occupation
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ahh if it is 1/10th of a stop faster that is my answer! Thanks
  2. Thanks! Its interesting because I am wanting to expose to the right as I feel its useful for my c100 (its a camera that likes a lot of light) but first I just want to ‘calibrate my meter to my camera’ (make sure my meter’s middle grey and canons recommended ire for middle grey in Clog’ is the same). I guess i dont really need to know how to compensate for 50iso, i can just meter it at 800 and just use exposure compensation till the meter gives me what I want. I just thought it might be something useful to learn though and cant find much info on it online!
  3. Do you mean you shot at 800 iso or do you mean you shot at 850 and metered it at 800? Cheers
  4. 850ISO is the base iso on my camera where I get the most dynamic range. The issue is that my light meter only has 800 ISO and not 850 ISO. I can use the exposure compensation on my light meter (i can adjust by 1/10th of a stop at a time) to try and sort this (I hope) but I am not quite sure how to work that out, Wondering if anybody could help me sort this issue out? Thanks!
  5. Thanks! Update, I gaffer taped 216 diffusion to the inside of the windows and then tried again but this time placing the light towards the far right window frame and then having a second light towards the right and got an effect I am relatively happy with. This was done at about 2am with the lights still uplighting below the window. I think it will take a bit of adjustment to get the dark spots right (most of it is just the window frame so that happens naturally anyway during the day) but I think it might work with a bit of luck.
  6. For a student film, I am trying to rig an Aputure 300d mk2 with the light dome to shoot through a second story window. The only stands I have are 13 foot high but the windows are roughly 17-18 foot high. Here is a picture of me attempting this with the 13 door stand; Here is what it looked like in the room; Obviously this isn't what I'm after but I am thinking if I gel the windows with 216 diffusion and have the light shining down in the top right corner it may look convincing with the blinds shut fully? I'd need to test but any alternative ideas would be great. I would need to rent a Mombo combo to get the light that high but the issue is that I have got a very tight space to work with on the ground. I only have 42 inches of width to place stands on the ground due to a hedge behind the house so I dont know if I have enough room for a mathews mombo combo with the legs spread out. Could anyone confirm this? I don't have access to be beyond the bush/fence. The goal is I want to make it look like daylight coming in the window. Any suggestions much appreciated. Many thanks!
  7. I want to mimic light coming from the shop window to the right of this frame, i doubt that the shop light (Co op) is exactly 5600k. I am wondering what gel I could use on my 5600k led lamp to match the co op source? any suggestions much appreciated, thanks!
  8. Its a film production course. I have an extremely dim view of the course to say the least but not sure if I should expand publicly just in case haha for the equipment its useful I guess.
  9. I think I will probably leave the pipe boom/menace arm until i either get the exact size of schedule 40 speed rail that goes with the kit some how or just save up for a mathews mini max or something of the like, although its definitely too expensive for me at the moment. Shame though! The goalpost rig I shall go ahead with regular 48.3mm scaff tube and construct it in the garden and make sure its safe as you say, thanks! in terms of my university, in all honesty I have tried many times to ask them for help but my film lecturers don’t really know what these rigs are or anything about grip so not a huge help so I suppose the internet/books is all I have at the moment untill i make some contacts but thanks very much for the advise!
  10. I am also constructing a goal post rig but thought as I getting the scaff tubes anyway, I may as well invest in a menace arm kit to have as another option. I’m based in Leicester and I'm a film production uni student soon to graduate. Right now I'm just researching, I wouldn't go ahead with it unless I had confirmation it was safe by someone qualified. I should add as well, im not working on anything specific, I just wanted to have a solution generally to hide backlights from above for wide shots for whatever I'm working on. its a slightly frustrating experience though because I don't really know anyone so just relying on the internet and most is US centric stuff. thanks!
  11. Thanks as always Phill!! in terms of heavy over head rigging, I just want to rig a 4 bank kino (about 12kg) obviously including the scaff tubes and clamps it will probably be about 20- 25kg boomed above frame line on a menace arm for interiors (so probably about 10ft high) In terms of the 1 1/4 menace arm kit (not really 1 1/4 as you know but really 42.164mm OD), i can find tube in the uk that is 42.4mm, do you think this would be okay? Or do you think i should just scrap the idea? In terms of the alloy type/grade, I will have to do more research. Not sure why there aren't any menace arm grip kits made for uk pipe, seems a bit strange.
  12. I am looking to purchase a pipe boom/menace arm kit, problem is that they all take american size speedrail either 1 1/4 (42.164 OD) or 1 1/2 (48.26 OD). This size aluminium pipe is quite difficult to find in the UK, What uk size scaff tube would I buy to use these rigs? And also does alloy type matter? Because i know that american speedrail is 6061-t6 grade but this is difficult to find in the uk Many thanks!
  13. Brilliant, thank you! Enjoyed your ep on the team deakins podcast by the way!
  14. Thanks a lot! I shall be shooting on the alexa mini in prores. Looking at the still from ‘Burning’, would you recommend solely shooting actual blue hour to get this look and use the wb to reinforce the blue tint to taste? or would you say that the look is quite easy to fake with white balance and underexposure at any time of day? As long as diffusion is used to soften hard sunlight? (8x8 or 12x12 frames) thanks!
  15. Shooting a blue hour scene without a calibrated monitor only using a light meter. The scene is not in a full silhouette so will need to see the subjects faces. For a shot similar to the one below (Burning), If I am taking my light readings by taking an incident reading on the key side of my subjects face, how underexposed I should go in camera? or would it be better technique to expose the skin tones properly and bring everything down in post? ("Burning" - Directed by Lee Chang-dong - DoP - Hong Kyung-pyo) Secondly for a shot like the one below (Army Of Shadows) where everything seems to be generally underexposed, where should I take my light readings from and how many stops under would you advise going? ("Army Of Shadows" - Directed by Jean-Pierre Melville - DoP - Pierre Lhomme / Walter Wottitz) Hope this makes sense, many thanks!
  • Create New...