Janis Lionel Huber

Hello 

Do you know any companies / people who make 16mm or 35mm print-outs from a digital file. I know CPC London, which has great prices, but they need 10 weeks to do it which is too long. Andec and DeJongh I can't afford. Maybe someone in the US? I in the end need a positive print for an art performance, could be directly to positive (like CPC does it). 

Thanks for the help and best!

Hello, can the zoom be operated when the 6008 is in manual mode or how can the zoom be operated when light is measured via a sekonic and aperture is set fix?

Thanks for the help! 

hello, I also just got a ZM4. What confuses me: I can't operate the zoom electronically if in Manual mode. Is this normal? Didn't find the answer in the manual (might have missed it). Thanks for the help. 

Can anyone recommend a repair service / person for beaulieu super 8 in Europe? 

Hello 

I have an experimental music video project which only operates with analogue/optical effects. It was all filmed with digital cameras high iso - so its veeeeery grainy (purposely so, see sample still). Now I would like to perform a final step over: Print it on 16mm (or 35mm film) and then scan it back in 2k or 4k

There are three ways I imagine this can happen, tho have no previous experience: 
- 16mm print out and scan back to digital: quite expensive to do, even for 4min. 
- 35mm print out and scan back to digital: probably cheaper - though maybe the resolution is too good / the grain no present enough. Then again: Maybe this is just the necessary amount of information/sharpness needed to render the digital grain/artefacts clearly
- Use a Bolex or Krasnogorsk and film the digital master from a screen or projector, develop the film and scan back to digital (?): does this give you adequate quality? I'm especially interested in this technique since its the cheapest but also because i imagine the 'sloppiness' of the bolex/krasnogorsk adds a movement that could be quite interesting for e.g. the shots that were filmed on a gimbal. 

Questions: 

- has any of you experience with filming from a screen / projector? If yes, I'd appreciate some tips regarding technique. 
- I guess in all the cases above it would make sense to have a digital master that is rather a little more overexposed than underexposed? 
- ho do overexposures end up on the film negative/scan back? does it get more organic or does it stay rather digital in its aesthetic? 

I hope I could express myself understandably. 

Best
Janis 

Also found this: https://blog.expresswaycine.com/lens-filters/ No an extensive comparison but quite cute. Maybe of interest to some. 

@David Mullen ASC & Others Have you used the Glimmer Glass? How do you rate it in comparison to the HBM? 

Thank you David. I knew about the HBM being a mix. Your description of the two types of halation is helpful. Thanks! I still wonder about the difference of the HBM 1/8 vs 1/4 - but unless there is a comparison out there which I'm not aware of I guess I just have to try it out. 

Hello 

I work as an artist and with various cameras. So far I have used the Black Pro Mist 82mm 1/4 for a lot of digital work. But the blooming is sometimes just too much / obvious so I'm eager to try out new filtration. I originally wanted to get the Black Frost 1/4 but it wasn't available back then. Now I'm looking at it again as well as the Hollywood Black Magic 1/8 and 1/4. There is a lot of info out there about the latter but I haven't yet seen a comparison between BF and HBM.

I don't have the money to buy a whole set (e.g. different filters for different focal length as many suggest). So I'm kinda looking for one to rule them all.

I want to use the filter on most of my digital cameras (from iPhone to Blackmagic Design). I film a lot of tele stuff or extreme wide angle - and also a lot of landscape/nature/architecture things without humans Sometimes humans. So I wonder is the HBM the right choice it subjects are not the focus of my work? E.g. will The softening not often be too much because I already get that in the high tele and wide range? So that would lean towards the Black Frost 1/4. Also I can't imagine the difference between the HBM 1/8 and 1/4. 

I would hope to get some experiences and hope the info above is helpful. 

Thanks already! 

I see. Makes sense with the swivel and loading. 

Too bad...makes it rather inconvenient. Do you know / have you headr about a conversion from the long swivel to a shorter one (see attechment)? Would make it much more usable.

Thanks for your help. 

Hello 

I bought a Locam II Highspeed 16mm cam some time ago. Finally I have time to try to make it work. 

The camera has an Angeniexu 12–120 lens on it with a dogleg viewfinder (see picture atteched). What suprises me though is that i can only see a picture, when the viewfinder ist horizontol like on the picture. Set to a 45 or 90 degree angel (altough it swivels there), I just see black. Is this normal? If yes, this would be quite inconvenient. 

Thanks for the help. 

Best regards

Hello 

I want to buy a used Sekonic 608 (cine) or 758 (cine). Anybody? Please pm me. 

Cheers

Does anybody have the full manual? I just have until page 50. Would be appreciated. 

Hi I just got the locam ii from ebay. To test wether it even works, can I testrun it without a film spool?

Hello 

I'm new to the forum, but I've been reading threads for years ? 

Anyhow: I just got a Redlake Locam II on ebay. I'm not sure wether it works. There are some threads on this forum but not many about this cam. I have the manual. What I couldn't find out: 

1) To test wether the camera works at all, can I test run it without any film inside or will this potentially damage the camera? I got the 115V version and will try to run it with a converter (since I am in europe). 

2) I saw that some Redlakes have an 'on / off' switch. Mine doesn't - instead it has a metal plate over this part. What does this mean? That when I plug in the camera it will rund immediately? Or that I first will have to build some sort of power switch?

I hope there's anyone with a working model

Thanks and best