Boris Kalaidjiev

Hi David, I would be interested in buying two or three.

I am looking for an eyecup for an XTR Prod. Anyone have any leads?

Hi Chris, I dont know how I stumbled across this thread. Do you know what was the camera effect they did for the Rolling Stones video and has was this achieved? Thanks!

Hello, I am new to gear heads and I am really keen on learning the skill. I usually operate a Movi Pro or Ronin 2 with a joystick but would like to transition to an electronic gear head. Has anyone worked with some of them and what are your thoughts? From a quick search online I can see that there are quite a few (I am probably missing some). 1) DJI Master Wheels 2) Mōvi Wheels 3) Nodo Inertia Wheels 2 4) Alpha Wheels I think its also important for the wheels to be compatible with multiple Gimbal systems. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

Hi, would 4 lenses be 54k$? If the whole set of 9 lenses is 122k? Thanks!

Very interesting question Ram. Unfortunately I have no idea but would really like to see an answer to your question!

Hi Stephen, Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation. I really do see your point of this set-up being a pain the arse if you had to adjust the mirrors so often. I really wasn't expecting the sun to be moving to fast but I guess if you want the best beam falling onto the collector mirror its good to check before every take. I think I will probably stick with only the second mirror and the M40. Thanks again!!

Hi everyone, I have an upcoming shoot in Malaysia, pretty near to the equator so the sun is mostly high and bright in the sky and I am thinking of ways how to control the sun without fighting with it. I have a scene where I have an air-well (hole in the ceiling) that allows sun light to come straight down, but I would like to be able to control the angle of the light falling on to the set. Do you think its possible to do this with 2 4x4 mirrors so that I can take advantage of the sunlight throughout the whole day and control its direction coming on to the set? I have done bellow a small crude plan of what I mean. Theoretically I guess it makes sense but practically I have no idea if it will, has anyone tried something like this before and did it work? In the plan bellow I have numbered 2 diffrent set-ups: 1) If we have nice direct sun light and no clouds. 2) If the day is cloudy and there is no direct sunlight. The plan bellow is not up to scale the height between the air-well and the subjects is probably 20ft. This is the effect I am hoping to achieve with the 2 mirrors. P.S We are planing on building our own 4x4 mirrors any tips would be much appreciated as I really haven't worked with mirrors that much. Thanks a lot! Boris

I was just wondering if there is a document, App or something where you can find all the data of the various brands and types of lights in one place instead of digging around all the manufacturers documents.

Are there any other Apps out there apart from the Arri Photometrics that give you photometrics for all the rest of the lights(jokers, kinos, dinos, LEDs...? Thanks!

Sorry for digging up the old thread. Most of the Apps mentioned here I think are no longer supported and unavailable to download. I know there is the Arri Photometrics App but I find their numbers to be a bit on the optimistic side. Has anyone found anything else that is similar to the Arri one but with more lights? Cheers!

Thank you!

Aapo thanks for the advice. I was thinking just now, wouldn't I be able to just punch an HMI (or something that's daylight) inside the room and bring up the ambiance a little bit like that (the sky light in the room), instead of bouncing daylight through the window? I have attached a crude lighting plan of what I mean. I've numbered the lights for the diffrent set-ups: 1) This is the set-up that you mentioned. Having the dino on 1 lift and having the bounce around the window on a second lift and an HMI punching into it. 2) Not having any daylight come through the window but instead bounce a Day light source into a wall or the ceiling to give it the daylight non directional light in the room (skylight). Wouldn't this second approach look the same as the first and be cheaper, because I wont be renting a second lift and it will be a faster set-up? Of course it limits the camera angles but my angle is only shooting from the toilet into the bedroom, so that's not much of a problem for me. David if I had set-up some branches outside the window wouldn't the Dino cast multiple shadows because of its many sources? Thanks!

If the window is only 3x3ft wouldn't a 20x20 bounce be a bit too much? Couldn't I use a smaller bounce positioned outside the window. Something like a 4x8 poly or two 4x8 polys, because they are more lightweight and easier to rig than a big frame (if I don't have a lift).

Appo thanks for your reply! If I am understanding you correctly you would put a big 20x20 bounce above the window and hit with an HMI from underneath to bounce it into the room and have the Dino separately hit directly inside. Why would you need to move the 20x20? I am thinking that between 11-3pm you could probably also use the bounce to cut the sun light from hitting around the window area, so its both a cutter and a bounce. The production budget is limited and I am not sure if they would be able afford to rent 2 lifts. Do you think it will look weird if I shot Night for Day only with the Dino without the HMI and the bounce. Would everything look to orange and not realistic? Thanks!

Hi David, I really like the effect that you accomplished with the 24 light Brute in the gym! If you had to shoot that same scene at night (Night for Day), would you use the same set up (having Tungsten light coming from the outside and balancing it with Day light from the right)? I assume you shot during the day. I am asking you this because I have an upcoming shoot with a similar scenario. The scene is a morning light coming through the bedroom window (room is 12x12ft on the 2nd floor). In the shot we don't see outside the window. I was planing on lighting it with a Mini Brute PAR positioned 20-30ft outside the window punching in and hitting one of the walls. 1) Is it better to shoot Day for Day (as long as the actual sun doesn't come through the window)? But that would mean that I would need a really strong Dino light to overpower the ambient/skylight that is coming through the window, so that I have a contrast between the walls that are lit with the "morning light" and the rest of the room? 2) Shooting Night for Day would be easier because I would be using a lot smaller units (ex: Mini Brute PAR 36 8x650W). But I am worried that the only source that would be coming through the window would be a warm Tungsten light, and there wont be any ambient/skylight? Would I have to add an HMI next to the Mini Brute so that the light coming into the room is more mixed and realistic? Or am I overthinking it? I have attached a photo of the light quality that I am going for, of course I wont be seeing outside the window. Thanks!

Hey Andrei, your schematics look pretty cool. Di you end up doing the Web App? I am curious to see what it would look like.