Allyn Iwatsuru

On 1/4/2023 at 1:38 AM, Daniel Meier said:

Any chance of giving us a manual on how to build the adapter?

Or even better: did anyone figure out a 3D model yet?

I would love to have one if these Frankenstein-Adapters.

Sorry to leave you hanging, I emailed you. A 3d printed one would be super cool. 

On 10/4/2022 at 6:36 PM, Ben Lalande said:

Also, I wonder if this 3.5mm lens would vignette on super-16. Thoughts?

It will vignette, I can see a little bit of vignetting on the upper left and I’m shooting just regular 16. Another friend I showed how to make this has hard vignetting on the right.

19 hours ago, Ben Lalande said:

Wow this is so rad. I assume you shaved a bit off that m43 adapter and put screws through it? How did you nail the right flange distance? Did you just eyeball it? I would be really curious to see if this could also be done with the Laowa 6mm for m43. That would be an amazing linear lens for it. 

So I went through a lot of tedious calculations and measurements but then just realized if I inverse the adapter (putting the adapter on the way I currently have it), that inherently makes it the correct flange depth. I want to do the Laowa 6mm as well, I’m waiting for one to pop up on sharegrid so I can rent it and take measurements. There’s two main things I have to look out for, the rear lens element housing fits inside the c mount throat and the outer lens housing clears all the stuff on the turret of a bolex ( the eclair acl also runs into this problem as the base protrudes out below the lens mount).

I made this mod for the meike 3.5mm which works great for under $200 

https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/88096-converted-meike-35mm-m43-to-cmount-for-bolex/#comment-560123

Laowa has been making some interesting wide angle mft “cinema” lenses that I would like to check out and take measurements of to see if they can be modified in the same way.

On 5/22/2022 at 2:42 PM, Tommy Lau Madsen said:

Dear Cinematography community.

Today I have the pleasure of announcing that we are doing a return to our roots and launching a brand new Super8 camera dubbed the Gentoo (GS8)

Check out more details at www.logmar.dk 

We would love to hear your feedback.

Yours truly

Tommy L. Madsen

Logmar Camera Solutions

Let me start by saying I admire what you are doing for the film community being that you are the only one producing new film cameras. I have a few questions I’m hoping you can answer on the forums so everybody has access to them if they are interested as well. Will this camera have a low enough operating dB level it can be used for sync sound? I don’t know all the technical aspects of 3g sdi compatibility but will these be compatible with atomos recorders? Having the ability to playback a recorded image for reference would be huge. And what’s repair/service going to be like? If there are bugs in the firmware will we be able to download a possible patch fix? Thanks for your time and any light you can shed on these questions.

Btw to get it to fit on any camera you have to file down that skirt on the rear of the lens body, but on the acl you have to file down a significant amount or it hits where it starts to protrude out for the base of the camera below the lens mount. I’ve fit this lens on a bolex, eclair acl ii and a Beaulieu 2008s. The eclair is the hardest to work with because the handle and the kinoptik viewfinder can be in frame so you have to rotate them back. 

On 5/2/2022 at 6:06 PM, Raymond Zrike said:

Very interesting. If it’s that simple, maybe I could just smoosh together a m4/3 mount and a c-mount in Blender or something and send it off to a 3D printer. I’d have to learn Blender first lol, but anything for art!

I’ll give your method a shot first though. I think the difficult part would be maintaining the accuracy of the focus scale, but personally I just focus through the viewfinder, so this could be viable for some shooting situations.

I entertained the thought of finding a metal shop to fabricate some adapters since I had got a lot of interest from friends of friends, but after short research I found that metal shops typically only do large quantities. That idea was killed quickly. I wouldn’t worry about the focus scaling marks it’s a 3.5mm, if it hits infinity practically everything is in focus

5 hours ago, Raymond Zrike said:

Those results look fantastic! Not sure why I had never seen this thread before you mentioned it elsewhere.

What process did you take to combine the C-to-M4/3 adapter and the extension tube? Did you manage to keep infinity focus (although that isn't much of a concern for something so wide)?

Literally just glued the two adapters together hahaha, the c mount extension tube screws into the m4/3 adapter so you don’t have to worry about centering it. Drilling holes for screws would be simple enough and I would do it if I was adapting a more expensive heavier lens. The new mount does actually allow for infinity focus (a little closer, maybe at the 7ft mark off the top of my head) because it’s the adapter flipped upside down so it’s essentially just a m4/3 mount with c mount threads. The reason why it doesn’t hit infinity perfectly on mark is cause I had to file some of lips away thus making it closer to the film plane.

So to chime in on this micro 4/3rds to c mount or film cameras in general… it can be done very simply but with some restrictions, I did it here with a Meike 3.5mm https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/88096-converted-meike-35mm-m43-to-cmount-for-bolex/#comment-550370 It’s very very very crudely put together but it works. The major problem one might run into is the flange distances of both c mount and mft are so close in comparison the mft rear lens element has to fit in the cmount thread barrel. The next lenses I’m looking into modding are the Laowa 7.5mm cine version and Vazen 28mm anamorphic. I started with this fisheye because frankly it’s super cheap so worth the risk and there aren’t many fisheyes out there for c mount. The Laowa is a moderately priced lens but that vazen is quite expensive. I would like to rent the lenses and take measurements but I don’t ever seem to have the time and it’s down a long list of things I need to do in life.

Pm’d

I actually bought about 11 100ft spools of 7245 about 2 years ago, still have some, I use it intermittently. About exposing, 2 stops over usually is the best spot to expose it, sometimes 1 stop works, sometimes I should have gone 3. That’s the issue though with my film at least, it’s not predictable. The guy I bought it off shot surfing about 2 decades ago, he said it had been in a case in a closet most it’s life and he lived by the beach so temperatures are relatively cool and consistent. Another issue with mine but is easily remedied is the remjet is a bit tougher to remove, I don’t know if that’s all old stock film. I wouldn’t use the film on any serious projects that didn’t seem fit to have a slight experimental look.

On 2/10/2022 at 4:20 AM, Frank Wylie said:

Have you checked your viewfinder for a possible light path to "kick back" through to the aperture?

I haven't personally shot with an ACL, but have had mysterious flicker issues with other cameras that were traced back to a reflex viewfinder eye cup not sealing against my face correctly.

Is your eye cup in good shape?  Does it fit your face properly?

This I have not ruled that out, but didn’t think it was the issue because it’s so constant. Maybe there’s an issue with my viewfinder. I can’t close the shutter all the maybe I’ll just remove it and cover the port.

On 2/7/2022 at 9:41 PM, Simon Wyss said:

No, but you have to make sure the ink stays on by degreasing the metal.

good point, thank you.

On 2/8/2022 at 12:47 AM, Heikki Repo said:

Hi Allyn, could you post some footage? Also, have you checked with a flashlight in a dark room there aren't any holes in your camera front. After my ACL conversion there was a tiny hole in the side of the outer TS-mount. Issues showed up when I used c-mount. I tried to find the cause for a long time and there it was, in front of my eyes (quite literally!) all the time... quick fix: gaffer's tape.

I've seen the discussion on the flicker issue you've mention and there are no holes on the front and my camera is regular 16. I've tested two different mags 1x400ft and 1x200ft, two different film stocks, two different scans from two different companies and it doesn't matter which lens mount I use TS or C.

https://youtu.be/n1sLF6PW-u0

15 hours ago, Simon Wyss said:

Claw should be blackened or at least darkened. I know it’s steel, so not a small job. Try to shield the space in front of the aperture with a piece of black felt or paper.

I’ll give it a shot, do think using a fine tip marker on the claw could have any serious negative effects? I can’t imagine it would since it’s only coming in contact with the perfs.

9 hours ago, Gregory Irwin said:

The claw should not be an issue once retracted the moment the shutter opens. This sounds like a possible out of sync shutter to me. That’s really easy to determine by a simple test.
 

Take about 3 feet of negative that you don’t mind wasting. On the emulsion side, with a fine tip sharpie, draw a straight line across the film from the perforation (s). Do this for several frames. Thread up the film in the camera. Looking through the open lens port, manually inch the movement so you can see the shutter opening. Now you can see the drawn sharpie line facing you. If you see the line perfectly static will inching the movement ( rock it back and forth if possible), the film is still for the moment of exposure. Your shutter is in sync. If you see the line slightly moving, your shutter is out of sync and opening while the film is transporting from one frame to the next. That could be what you are seeing. 
 

Below are 2 photos of how you can do this. Here, the entire gate was traced. A simple line drawn as described above will work as well. Let us know what you find!

G

 

I’ve done this and it’s not a sync issue, thank you though. I can’t seem to embed photos from Flickr but I took a picture and you can clearly see light reflecting off the claw which would also mean it’s coming through the gap the claw moves through. This seems to make sense since it’s every other frame and the mirror covers it every other frame.

So I’ve been having a tiny flicker issue in the top left corner of my image on my acl and I think ive deduced it to light reflecting off of the pulldown claw when it recedes. Does anybody have any bright ideas on fixing this issue?

This is an interesting idea. After a little research though the throat of a b4 mount might be too wide and you may need to modify your k-3 body. This is only a guess as I don’t have a b4 mount or lens on hand

I’m surprised this hasn’t been mention but on Logmars website they have a new camera listed in development, Rockhopper. I’m really excited to see what they create as their Chatham and Magellan cameras were awesome.

On 5/23/2021 at 8:22 PM, Patrick M P Donnelly said:

There are 4.8, 5.5, 6 and 6.5mm c mount lenses available on fleabay. All but the 4.8mm are for 1 inch sensors, close to S16mm.

The 4.8mm is on its way to me and may be for 1 inch. The distortions are impressive, but the 6.5mm is almost tolerable.

The best rectilinear, moderately affordable, extreme, wide angle lens in C mount, is the Kowa or Navitar 6mm HC series. Some second hand ones have wandered onto our fave electronic flea market. There appear unused. Some seller has compiled all the available video demonstrations of this lens, in the advert. Modesty forbids...

Brand new, the Kowa actually have a wider lens: 4.7mm F/2.4 for a mere $1,079 AUD. Unknown how it draws.

I looked into those and they probably turn out great results, but are a bit expensive for me.

On 7/29/2021 at 6:49 AM, Marc De Acetis said:

Looks so cool! What adapters did you use to finally get to C-Mount?

Sorry I never got back to this question. Here are the links to the adapters.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1245026-REG/fotodiox_c_mft_lens_mount_adapter_for.html

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/889270-REG/computar_VM400_Extension_Tube_5mm.html

I’m no professional on this matter as I haven’t held more than just my own ACL 2, but I don’t have that dark circle in the middle( I have the kinoptik viewfinder as well). 

5 hours ago, Ruben Arce said:

If you don't want to use the reglomatic or the light meter then you don't need the half power. You can just attach the  positive and negative poles and ignore the half one.

Perfect, thank you

I’m sorry I know Beaulieu batteries have been talked to death but I need a question answered I couldn’t find googling. I have the later Beaulieu s2008 that has the battery compartment similar to the 4008 and I know my automatic exposure doesn’t work, so do I have to wire the 2.4v half voltage up? Can I just wire up the full(+) and the (-) terminals? Thanks for any help.

19 hours ago, Philip Forrest said:

This is pretty cool. How close does the rear element shroud get to your prism?

Phil Forrest

Not that close, the shroud sits almost flush with the barrel of the mount and the mount isn’t the full length of the c mount threads.

I successfully converted this Meike 3.5mm fisheye to c mount by frankensteining multiple other mounts together. I always wanted a fisheye for 16mm but my only options have been limited to a select few rare lenses that are also quite expensive, but this Meike caught my eye. I had always wondered if converting m4/3 to c mount was possible due the longer focal flange distance so I bought the lens and for $180 I figured I couldn't lose.

IMG_8031.HEIC IMG_8073.HEIC