Allyn Iwatsuru

It will vignette, I can see a little bit of vignetting on the upper left and I’m shooting just regular 16. Another friend I showed how to make this has hard vignetting on the right.

So I went through a lot of tedious calculations and measurements but then just realized if I inverse the adapter (putting the adapter on the way I currently have it), that inherently makes it the correct flange depth. I want to do the Laowa 6mm as well, I’m waiting for one to pop up on sharegrid so I can rent it and take measurements. There’s two main things I have to look out for, the rear lens element housing fits inside the c mount throat and the outer lens housing clears all the stuff on the turret of a bolex ( the eclair acl also runs into this problem as the base protrudes out below the lens mount).

I made this mod for the meike 3.5mm which works great for under $200 https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/88096-converted-meike-35mm-m43-to-cmount-for-bolex/#comment-560123 Laowa has been making some interesting wide angle mft “cinema” lenses that I would like to check out and take measurements of to see if they can be modified in the same way.

Let me start by saying I admire what you are doing for the film community being that you are the only one producing new film cameras. I have a few questions I’m hoping you can answer on the forums so everybody has access to them if they are interested as well. Will this camera have a low enough operating dB level it can be used for sync sound? I don’t know all the technical aspects of 3g sdi compatibility but will these be compatible with atomos recorders? Having the ability to playback a recorded image for reference would be huge. And what’s repair/service going to be like? If there are bugs in the firmware will we be able to download a possible patch fix? Thanks for your time and any light you can shed on these questions.

Btw to get it to fit on any camera you have to file down that skirt on the rear of the lens body, but on the acl you have to file down a significant amount or it hits where it starts to protrude out for the base of the camera below the lens mount. I’ve fit this lens on a bolex, eclair acl ii and a Beaulieu 2008s. The eclair is the hardest to work with because the handle and the kinoptik viewfinder can be in frame so you have to rotate them back.

I entertained the thought of finding a metal shop to fabricate some adapters since I had got a lot of interest from friends of friends, but after short research I found that metal shops typically only do large quantities. That idea was killed quickly. I wouldn’t worry about the focus scaling marks it’s a 3.5mm, if it hits infinity practically everything is in focus

Literally just glued the two adapters together hahaha, the c mount extension tube screws into the m4/3 adapter so you don’t have to worry about centering it. Drilling holes for screws would be simple enough and I would do it if I was adapting a more expensive heavier lens. The new mount does actually allow for infinity focus (a little closer, maybe at the 7ft mark off the top of my head) because it’s the adapter flipped upside down so it’s essentially just a m4/3 mount with c mount threads. The reason why it doesn’t hit infinity perfectly on mark is cause I had to file some of lips away thus making it closer to the film plane.

So to chime in on this micro 4/3rds to c mount or film cameras in general… it can be done very simply but with some restrictions, I did it here with a Meike 3.5mm https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/88096-converted-meike-35mm-m43-to-cmount-for-bolex/#comment-550370 It’s very very very crudely put together but it works. The major problem one might run into is the flange distances of both c mount and mft are so close in comparison the mft rear lens element has to fit in the cmount thread barrel. The next lenses I’m looking into modding are the Laowa 7.5mm cine version and Vazen 28mm anamorphic. I started with this fisheye because frankly it’s super cheap so worth the risk and there aren’t many fisheyes out there for c mount. The Laowa is a moderately priced lens but that vazen is quite expensive. I would like to rent the lenses and take measurements but I don’t ever seem to have the time and it’s down a long list of things I need to do in life.

Pm’d

I actually bought about 11 100ft spools of 7245 about 2 years ago, still have some, I use it intermittently. About exposing, 2 stops over usually is the best spot to expose it, sometimes 1 stop works, sometimes I should have gone 3. That’s the issue though with my film at least, it’s not predictable. The guy I bought it off shot surfing about 2 decades ago, he said it had been in a case in a closet most it’s life and he lived by the beach so temperatures are relatively cool and consistent. Another issue with mine but is easily remedied is the remjet is a bit tougher to remove, I don’t know if that’s all old stock film. I wouldn’t use the film on any serious projects that didn’t seem fit to have a slight experimental look.

This I have not ruled that out, but didn’t think it was the issue because it’s so constant. Maybe there’s an issue with my viewfinder. I can’t close the shutter all the maybe I’ll just remove it and cover the port.

good point, thank you. I've seen the discussion on the flicker issue you've mention and there are no holes on the front and my camera is regular 16. I've tested two different mags 1x400ft and 1x200ft, two different film stocks, two different scans from two different companies and it doesn't matter which lens mount I use TS or C. https://youtu.be/n1sLF6PW-u0

I’ll give it a shot, do think using a fine tip marker on the claw could have any serious negative effects? I can’t imagine it would since it’s only coming in contact with the perfs. I’ve done this and it’s not a sync issue, thank you though. I can’t seem to embed photos from Flickr but I took a picture and you can clearly see light reflecting off the claw which would also mean it’s coming through the gap the claw moves through. This seems to make sense since it’s every other frame and the mirror covers it every other frame.

So I’ve been having a tiny flicker issue in the top left corner of my image on my acl and I think ive deduced it to light reflecting off of the pulldown claw when it recedes. Does anybody have any bright ideas on fixing this issue?

This is an interesting idea. After a little research though the throat of a b4 mount might be too wide and you may need to modify your k-3 body. This is only a guess as I don’t have a b4 mount or lens on hand