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Lewis Hart

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  • Occupation
    Cinematographer
  • Location
    London

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  1. Price is flexible - listed on eBay for £4,4. Happy to negotiate on price as need a relatively quick sale.
  2. Up for sale is my amazing SUPER 16 Converted Bolex EBM. Photos below 🙂 https://imgur.com/a/hWuHiNu Reluctant sale but she isn’t getting enough use to keep her around, so off to a new home she goes. She is running currently on D tap power, so you can easily just stick a v mount on the plate on the rear and off she goes, will run for years on 1 battery. You can put the the original Bolex grip system with the propitiatory Bolex battery, but its rare and expensive and a old system to be honest. Was just serviced by Les Bosher 2 days ago. Body is in Mint Condition - Viewfinder is nice and bright as you can see. Lens is clear of any fungus, scratches or marks on both ends of the optics. Im selling it with all you can see in the photos which is as follows, Bolex EBM Body Kern Vario Switar F1.9 16-100mm (insanely great lens) Lens Hood 400ft Drum Mag Power cable for 400ft mag 400ft Mag rollers Kern Lens Cable Original Bolex Silver Case Pelican Case Rig Bits: ARRI Rosette Baseplate ARRI Rosete wooden handle from SmallRig 15mm Rods Mini V Mount Plate Any questions just ask Based in the Uk - London. £4400 ONO.
  3. I have a Super 16 Bolex EBM with 16-100mm 1.9 Ive just put up for sale if that's of interest?
  4. Shot a bunch of content in Mexico for a music video, on the first night several of the clips where shot in 50p, was meant to be 60, to drop them into a 24p timeline alongside my 24p super 8 footage. is there any way to convert the 50p footage to 24p so I can keep the lip sync in the performance shots in time? conforming the 50 to 24 just leads to it being slowed down, which then I can't use. any ideas?
  5. Thanks Dom purchssed a few months ago, can I still shoot with it like so? Flew out to a different country to shoot with it so very much need to ideally if it’s still workable.
  6. Hey guys i just popped my first roll into my 16mm bolex EBM pushed the film through, stuck it onto the lower take up, ran it and then took the formers off noticed that the film doesn’t keep the loop form shape but tugs tighter on the bottom claw side and looser on the top, does this matter ? seems to be running through fine other than that. thanks ahead Some photos below https://ibb.co/37vvxgg https://ibb.co/51hFcyn https://ibb.co/fvQGZPZ https://ibb.co/s2JYdFc
  7. thats my concern also, im sure it would be fine to view through, but to get focus Im not sure how useful it would be?
  8. sounds fab - I run mine from v mount also 🙂 I have the 16-100 kern vario switar on my EBM, not sure what lens I would need? any ideas?
  9. hi all, found this little old thread on here about discussions to do a digital video feed with a cctv camera and lens. following specs with the photo attached. "Marshall V-LCD4-Pro-Kit LCD monitor, Mintron CCD camera model MTV-33K9HN with 12mm f/1.6 1/3" CS mount TV lens, and SRB-Griturn custom viewfinder eyepiece adapter" curious what MM lens should be used for the Bolex EBM viewfinder think its 13x (14x according to the manual which I didn't know) lens above says 12mm but its on super8 which I think has the 10x viewfinder? someone said @Jean-Louis Seguin I think maybe you? that the focal length for the EBM would have to be a wider lens? I would have thought the 13x would need a tighter lens. I can't find the original thread, but would love to knock up a setup. I know Du all seems to make a setup albeit quite large and clunky. trying to do it without a massive CCTV camera body, want to keep it trim and small as possible so can hand operate. thanks ahead lewis
  10. I was considering trying to get a small v Mount plate, small rig make one that’s really well, small lol. was going to use the d tap on a v Mount Battery itself, 14.4v out, d tap > wire to a 12v voltage regulator > then to the 7 pin tuchel into the camera so it’s getting a nice 12v. basically I assume the wiring inside the battery plates with the 5/7,4/12v outs etc. basically eliminates the large battery plate as they are often much taller than the batteries and it’s getting in the way of the eyepiece. would this work?
  11. Thanks everyone for their replies. Struggling a bit to find a good solution still I tried to run a few different setups, with 8 AAs to give 12v but noticed there was a 2v voltage drop / equiv in Amps whilst the motor ran, the red light on the back indicated low voltage; so I tried it with 10 aas to give 14 ish volts, that worked no red light, but it seemed to drain them really fast strangely and got really hot so maybe it was shorting not sure but it wasn’t the best setup. I did use a v Mount 95wh and plugged it into a battery plate using the 12v out port which ran perfect, just was so heavy, and mounting it on the rear on some 15mm rods the battery was in the way so I couldn’t get my eye on the viewfinder cup, so trying to figure out a lighter / better solution if anyone has any better solutions, do chime in 🙂 thanks again
  12. Unfortunately camera repair shops here are few and far between, there’s a few in London who don’t do bolexs les Bosher is far away from me but does repair them, he’s extremely busy he said. a thought though, I did take off all of the front Mount screws today to see if I could shift the Mount across, Les said it would be a few MM to the right if so, but he said the Mount could shift easily, but all I found was that the film gate, and whole assembly was together, including what looked like the front prism all attached together. im 100% no technician so I put it back before I caused any damage. @Dom Jaegerif you know any technicians in the U.K. do let me know Lewis
  13. Thanks for your reply Dom yes it’s difficult to ascertain what it’s caused by, if it’s purely cosmetic or not Les Bosher said that the camera appears to be set to standard 16 for a few images I sent to him, and moving the Mount across 1mm would likely sort it. it’s not lens vignetting as it’s there with it not even on, and zooming in, it doesn’t move at all, does appear to be inside the viewfinder itself actually because when I flick the prism door up inside the lens Mount, of course it’s black through the viewfinder, but when I point a bright light into the lens Mount I can still see the curve, so that would mean likely it’s one of the optics inside the viewfinder (up to and before the front prism) and not to do with the lens Mount position ? any other ideas? needs to be looked at for sure
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