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Lewis Hart

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  • Occupation
    Cinematographer
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    London

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  1. thats my concern also, im sure it would be fine to view through, but to get focus Im not sure how useful it would be?
  2. sounds fab - I run mine from v mount also 🙂 I have the 16-100 kern vario switar on my EBM, not sure what lens I would need? any ideas?
  3. hi all, found this little old thread on here about discussions to do a digital video feed with a cctv camera and lens. following specs with the photo attached. "Marshall V-LCD4-Pro-Kit LCD monitor, Mintron CCD camera model MTV-33K9HN with 12mm f/1.6 1/3" CS mount TV lens, and SRB-Griturn custom viewfinder eyepiece adapter" curious what MM lens should be used for the Bolex EBM viewfinder think its 13x (14x according to the manual which I didn't know) lens above says 12mm but its on super8 which I think has the 10x viewfinder? someone said @Jean-Louis Seguin I think maybe you? that the focal length for the EBM would have to be a wider lens? I would have thought the 13x would need a tighter lens. I can't find the original thread, but would love to knock up a setup. I know Du all seems to make a setup albeit quite large and clunky. trying to do it without a massive CCTV camera body, want to keep it trim and small as possible so can hand operate. thanks ahead lewis
  4. I was considering trying to get a small v Mount plate, small rig make one that’s really well, small lol. was going to use the d tap on a v Mount Battery itself, 14.4v out, d tap > wire to a 12v voltage regulator > then to the 7 pin tuchel into the camera so it’s getting a nice 12v. basically I assume the wiring inside the battery plates with the 5/7,4/12v outs etc. basically eliminates the large battery plate as they are often much taller than the batteries and it’s getting in the way of the eyepiece. would this work?
  5. Thanks everyone for their replies. Struggling a bit to find a good solution still I tried to run a few different setups, with 8 AAs to give 12v but noticed there was a 2v voltage drop / equiv in Amps whilst the motor ran, the red light on the back indicated low voltage; so I tried it with 10 aas to give 14 ish volts, that worked no red light, but it seemed to drain them really fast strangely and got really hot so maybe it was shorting not sure but it wasn’t the best setup. I did use a v Mount 95wh and plugged it into a battery plate using the 12v out port which ran perfect, just was so heavy, and mounting it on the rear on some 15mm rods the battery was in the way so I couldn’t get my eye on the viewfinder cup, so trying to figure out a lighter / better solution if anyone has any better solutions, do chime in 🙂 thanks again
  6. Unfortunately camera repair shops here are few and far between, there’s a few in London who don’t do bolexs les Bosher is far away from me but does repair them, he’s extremely busy he said. a thought though, I did take off all of the front Mount screws today to see if I could shift the Mount across, Les said it would be a few MM to the right if so, but he said the Mount could shift easily, but all I found was that the film gate, and whole assembly was together, including what looked like the front prism all attached together. im 100% no technician so I put it back before I caused any damage. @Dom Jaegerif you know any technicians in the U.K. do let me know Lewis
  7. Thanks for your reply Dom yes it’s difficult to ascertain what it’s caused by, if it’s purely cosmetic or not Les Bosher said that the camera appears to be set to standard 16 for a few images I sent to him, and moving the Mount across 1mm would likely sort it. it’s not lens vignetting as it’s there with it not even on, and zooming in, it doesn’t move at all, does appear to be inside the viewfinder itself actually because when I flick the prism door up inside the lens Mount, of course it’s black through the viewfinder, but when I point a bright light into the lens Mount I can still see the curve, so that would mean likely it’s one of the optics inside the viewfinder (up to and before the front prism) and not to do with the lens Mount position ? any other ideas? needs to be looked at for sure
  8. Found out that the optics haven’t been recentered / lens port. is there any advice out there on how to correct this, I imagine it’s relating to the lens Mount being shifted over to cover the larger image circle / aspect ratio? lewis
  9. hi guys, just noticed inside my Bolex EBM viewfinder, there is this curve of blurry darkness on the right hand side, looks like something is in the way? - not sure. the camera looks to me to be super 16'd film gate is of the s16 aspect ratio / 12+mm in size so I think it is? (picked it up cheap / untested the other day with a nice 16-100 - with no power, seems to run fine on first look), im not sure if the s16 makes a difference to the viewing through the viewfinder? looks a odd shape anyway, not too fussed as long as its not on the film which it shouldn't be technically? same with a lens off or on, impossible to photograph but you can see on the right there is a slight curve. any clues? I thought it was the shutter as sometimes the shutter sits in front of the gate when you stop the EBM, but when I run the camera it stays there, so im pretty sure its something inside the viewfinder itself? https://imgur.com/a/549JR13 thanks ahead lewis
  10. Yes ive got a nice d tap to 4 pin XLR on the way today, so would I be able to use a v mount battery? I have a few swit s batteries and they are 6.8ah but they are 14.4v. I see some guys using a 12v battery pack, theres one on eBay for the EBM at its 4.5ah 12v, looks like its straight into the 7 pin tuchel port.
  11. Hi guys just picked up a EBM with the 16-100mm, sadly didn't come with the power grip so im trying to find that 7 pin cable which seems to be nion impossible. My question was regarding operating voltage of the EBM , says 12v online but can it take a V mount battery for example, fully charged around 16v I think and lowest dead around 11v? What is the voltage threshold for the camera as I can't seem to find any information on it, or anyones recommendation to a battery solution? does anyone have any advice on what to do re power, wanted to go for a belt clip solution ideally, with a v mount as I can get a D tap to X pin XLR easily but im concerned about the voltage being too high? Thanks a lot
  12. Hi all, hope everyones well new to Arri 16mm, interested to pick up a 16S tomorrow, the chap hasn't used it in some time has struggled to find a battery solution for it, he used some bike batteries for it he said, which I believe to be 6v, hence why it Never ran properly, (not sure he's super knowledgable etc) he has shot film and developed it, showed me etc, so it works. Has anyone found a good solution for a 8v source, ideally belt clipped, I know some have used a 12v power pack, with a resistor to bring it down to around 8v. Some posts I've seen some have used Bosch / various power tool batteries with a custom XLR setup, I guess these had resistors / potentiometers as they are usually 14+ v. I was hoping to use a V mount battery clip solution, as those are 14.v and you can step down im sure with a P to 8v? just guessing here. second question: I know the torque motor as far as im aware needs 6-8v, and the camera 8v, with both obviously needing a certain amperage to run properly. Could anyone give any ideas or what they've used that's worked with running the camera both from the 100ft rolls inside and if possible a solution for the 400ft mag up top - a battery solution and what amperage / voltage you need to power up both properly. I believe the camera has the wild motor with the R-F on it, Is this the one that goes from 4-40fps? thanks ahead for any help lewis
  13. Thanks very much for the detailed reply, after some looking into it, although possible its not advisable due to that spherical aberration I believe its called, anyway I found a lovely 16-100mm f1.9 Kern which ive grabbed for my rex looking forward to it, just trying to fashion up a rig for when it arrives 🙂
  14. Looking out for a Bolex to get into 16mm, seen a few good deals but some without glass, im fine with using the Kern and normal glass, but they fetch still good money, so wanted to see if I could use some FD glass as I have a fair bit of it and its cheap / sharp. I know there are adapters, some people said that you can use them with REX models and upwards? any truth to this, thought the image circle would be the same from the first model onwards mechanically they are the same. Thanks ahead
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