Andrew Hamilton Watts

I really wish I had this sort of sage advice before I had bought my Rex 1 a few years back lol. I was really hooked on the reflex idea and I’m slowly realizing that it might not have been the deal breaker I thought it was at the time. I really would not be opposed to getting a Non reflex body - but unfortunately where I am (Canada) even those are getting very difficult to find. Or are missing parts like the critical finder loupe, etc. Using Leica M glass is sort of a wild idea, I never realized they made an adaptor for that…

Lovely! Thanks for the info and some options. Man, the Rex 1 sometimes bugs me lol. It never dawned on me that there is a lower or upper turret lock depending on the model. Are C mount TV lenses just generally a no go? Even if I were shooting outside stopped down?

I agree that it does not look great and takes away from the mobility of smaller cameras. I have nothing against C mount glass either! But I’m not sure about the affordability of it. Som Berthiot or the Angenieux 12-120 are like well over a grand. If there are cheaper zoom options I’m all for it! Just I don’t know where to look…

Hi all, lately I’ve been eyeing a telephoto lens for my Bolex. However, as is no surprise, the prices for a lot of the classic ones are now crazy. I do have a good amount of Nikon F mount lenses for my SLRs and I know there are adaptors. I’m just curious for those who have used Nikon F lenses on a Bolex, is there anything I need to be aware of? Certain focal lengths that won’t work or shooting wide open creating issues with the prism on my Bolex? It also seems to me that a big Nikon lens mounted on the front of a Bolex is putting a lot of weight on the turret, does this cause issues? thanks so much!

Yes! That did the trick! Thank you so much

Hi all, I am hoping one of you with more experience can help me out with my Filmo 70DR. Earlier today I was out shooting some film when I noticed the winding key was loose. I pushed it back in and it seemed fine but when I hand the camera to my friend the key fell out. Now it seems like this is suppose to happen, but how do I get the key to stay back in without it falling out every time I tilt the camera? It had never done this before and I’m not sure exactly what I did to cause this. Any advice would greatly help me! best, Andrew

Thanks for this! I have not heard of Mundus Film before and was not able to find much...something I will need to look into more. The tricky thing about edge codes on 8mm is that it was handled by a different division within Kodak - so the edge codes are the same as 35/16 but were recycled more frequently and therefore the standard edge code charts are more or less useless. I believe the one link you posted that leads to a chart made by an archivist at the East Anglian Film Archive makes not of this. However you're spot on about the lack of info on the net. I have found more or less all I need about 8/s8 used by amateurs - however it's the reduction print stuff that is really difficult to find. The search continues! Thanks for the help.

I have seen a few examples of un-slit 35mm prints of 8mm/S8/9.5mm and at least on the S8 one I saw it did have "Eastman color" on the far edge - so I would assume that perhaps that one print of the 4 would have edge marks, but I am not sure. I also do not have any 8mm reduction prints in hand so I cannot say for certain. Your answer about the print you have with the "clear rebate" does answer my suspicion that they would have a clear base - although as Joerg answered above, some might be on reversal with is confusing. I guess what I am trying to determine is whether or not one could identify a year of manufacture based off the edge codes of a reduction print and not based off say the filmed content. I thought for sure someone would have over-scanned one of these and put it up on the internet somewhere but that is not the case. Thanks for the help!

Hi all, Not sure if this is the correct place for this question but hoping someone can help. I am looking for information regarding edge code markings on 8mm prints - so for example a reduction and abridged print of a Universal monster film from the 1930s. Did these prints have the same edge code markings as 8mm for amateurs used? I am assuming the edges would be clear and not the characteristic black of in-camera reversal stocks. Any information and especially photos would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Andrew

My apologies. My phone either wants to correct that to “combat” or “comet.” Thanks for the information.

Awesome, thank you. This is sort of what I was thinking, I just don’t have the technical knowledge to be sure. I did manage to score a 0.7” B&H Super Comet for super cheap, surprisingly. Perhaps that says something about the quality of the lens. I’ve got some very expired Kodak EXR that would be great to test the Switar.

Okay great, thank you! I guess I foolishly thought that any C mount lens would work. I was hoping to put my 10mm Switar and just use it for a simple wide set up, but I guess I’ll need to keep looking. I guess it’s best to avoid TV lenses as well since I don’t want to waste money of out of focus film. It seems like a lot of folks use them and get decent results though. can I ask what brand of oil you use? Is all sewing machine oil the same?

Hi all, I recently acquired a B&H Film 70 DR and have a few questions about it. First, I see there are various areas where you can insert oil, what oil should I be using for this? I have seen some say a sewing machine oil? But I am wondering if there is a specific brand or type people are familiar with. Second, since it is a C-mount lens, am I able to use RX Bolex lenses on it? I am just curious what the lens calibrated for the prism would do without a prism? Likewise, there are a number of cheap c-mount tv lenses on the market, if I am not too concerned about quality (which I am not) would these lenses work on this camera? Any other information on this camera would be greatly appreciated since I do not know much about the various B&H 70 models. Thanks so much, Andrew

Hi all, Reaching out for some help from someone smarter and more experienced than I. I am hoping someone could explain the difference in how the Braun Nizo line and the Eumig 881 work regarding long exposures. Because I have a Nizo 480 in hand, I understand that by locking the shutter open, I can then use the intervalometer function as means of controlling my exposures. If I set the intervalometer to 30 seconds, I will be exposing each from for that period. I could then either increase or decrease the exposure time to my needs. However, I do not have the Eumig in hand and therefore am trying to understand it based off the manual, which I find to be a bit confusing. Am I correct in understanding that the Eumig determines the length of an exposure in "long time" mode based off the light meter reading? So unlike the Nizo, I am not able to control the exposure time but most rely on the cameras internal meter to do it for me? Hope that makes sense! As you can tell I am trying to work this out in my head with little experience so anything regarding this help! Best, Andrew

Hi all, I am wondering if the Aspheron 5.5 wide-angle attachment will work on an early non-preset kern 10mm? I have found competing information, with some saying it will not and others saying that with the use of step-up rings, it will mount fine. I guess I am wondering if one uses step-up rings, will that effect the ability for the lens to get a good focus on the wider image? Any thoughts, suggestions, or experience with this is appreciated! Best, Andrew