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Andrew Hamilton Watts

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Everything posted by Andrew Hamilton Watts

  1. That is an interesting question, I cannot say for sure. I know the camera had been previously CLA'd, but unsure if there was any work done on the gate. Why would someone file the gate? and if so, could that be the cause of this phantom white line for some reason?
  2. I had wondered that as well, but it appears on frames that are not clouds, perhaps that was not the best example to grab an image from.
  3. Hello, Reaching out with a question about this light (whiteish) line that appears on the top of the frame (about where the underline is). It appears on every frame, obviously most clear in areas that are darker. I have also noticed it in the bottom right corner as well, but not as bad. I am wondering if anyone had an idea or guess as to what this might be? Is it a registration issue or something with the pressure plate? The camera is a Rex 1, shot with a 25mm on 250D. Thanks, Andrew Edit: sorry it is hard to see, I couldn't upload a large enough image.
  4. Hey all, Sorry for the question but I am new to this. I was out shooting with my Bolex Rex 1 and lost track of the remaining footage and ended up shooting for probably a minute or less with no film passing by the gate. I was shooting at 24fps and am wondering if and why this is bad for the camera? I know running at fps rates above 48 is bad without film (or so I have heard) but is shooting off a minute of blank footage at 24 bad? Other than the loose take-up reel which will probably now have light-leaks... Also, I noticed a number of red/brownish fibres that had collected around the gate/pressure plate area, what are these from and why are they there? Is it static that builds up around the gate the causes these to collect? Cheers, Andrew
  5. I was able to focus at closer distances yes, and the barrel turned the full amount. However, in my haste and curiosity I did as you suggested and now I believe I have made a royal mistake by that. I was able to shift the barrel but now a gap as opened up between knurled ring which fits flush with the camera body and the smooth ring between that and the focus knurled area...which is not good. And I cannot seem to get them back flush again. Also, it no longer turns as it did, it is pretty much jammed up. Looks like I am going to need a crash course on lens repair here.
  6. Hey Dom, thanks for the response. The lens is indeed marked RX, so I do not think that is the issue. It also does not appear to be fogged or have any mould on the inside. And since things seem nice with the 25mm and the diopter has been adjusted, I do not think it is the camera either. The camera was also serviced in 2021. I will try using the focus method you suggested. However, this leads me to another question that might be more difficult to fully explain. For whatever reason, the marks do no align. The aperture marks match up with the white/orange centre line (between the aperture ring and focus ring) but the only focal distance marking that matches the centre line is the infinity marking. From there I can only turn the focus ring counter clockwise, meaning none of the distance markings match. This had me really puzzled because it renders all the D0F preview dots completely useless. Again, no idea if that makes sense or is normal, but I cannot measure any distance and match it up with the lenses because I have no index on the lens as to what the distance is. I do not want to sound too conspiratorially with this suggestion, but could someone conceivable place an RX cutter ring on a non RX lens and try and pass it off? Is there any way of distinguishing the difference beyond the RX markings? Thanks
  7. Hello all, Sorry for the slightly silly question but I am new(ish) to 16mm cameras and lenses and I cannot seem to find a satisfying answer elsewhere. I recently came across a Bolex Rex 1 with a 25mm and a Kern Switar 10mm. When the 10mm is wide-open at 1.6 and set to infinity, the objects in the distance are noticeably blurry. However, when I begin to stop down the lens, the distant objects are in focus. I have noticed a similar thing with my K3, stopping down the lens set to infinity appears to render the distant objects clearer. My question is, is this normal? I was told that wide-open the 10mm will be soft around the edges, but this seems to be soft all over. For the record, the 25mm does not appear to suffer the same issues so I do not believe it is a problem with the camera. Cheers
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