Jordan B Moss

This is the info I was looking for! Thank you! My Nautica (not sure if there were multiple models) doesn't have TTL metering, it has a separate light meter above the lens. So in that case I'm thinking I'll set the camera to daylight to use the color correction filter for added contrast, but then add an ND filter so that I can underexpose by 1 or 2 stops. I really love the look of Tri-X when it's pushed so I'd like to underexpose on purpose. Wish I could do this but this camera actually doesn't tell you the aperture. It only warns you if you're underexposed. I tried finding a shot that was just on the edge of underexposed to see if I could figure out what aperture was being selected but it was too imprecise. Thank you all for your replies!

To streamline my question above: Based on some further testing/examination I'm now fairly confident that the orange filter is engaged when I hit the daylight switch no matter what kind of cartridge is in there. It seems my camera is only smart enough to read the ASA notch (to tell the difference between 25D/40T and 100D/160T), but that it finds out if the cartridge is tungsten or daylight by manual switch only. It seems that the only way to have a cartridge rated at 40 or 100 is to turn on the daylight switch (which also turns on the orange filter). Assuming my logic above (in this comment and the last) is sound, my question is this: was the film rated at 100? Or did the camera subtract 2/3 stop from 100 because of the orange filter and rate it at ~67 ASA? Also please ignore my questions about filter thread, I was able to find the answer elsewhere. Thanks again!

So I'm looking at the film compartment and I'm not seeing the push switch you're describing which would shut off the orange filter. Here is an image of my compartment, and then an image with some tungsten film in there. I don't see any switch poking thru the filter notch on the tungsten roll. The only thing that sticks out other than the center gate is the ASA pin. I wonder if there might be multiple versions of the Nautica and perhaps mine doesn't have that push switch? Or perhaps a prior owner removed it? In the case that the camera may have allowed me to use the orange filter with Tri-X, would that mean it's rated at 160 - 2/3*80 = 107? In that case, I'm guessing it'd be best to pull it one stop? I also would like to be able to project this so prefer not to process as negative. But that's great to know, I may choose to do that for a future project! If I want to use an external ND filter or 85 filter with the nautica, do you know the thread size? Can't find that info anywhere. Also, will I have any problems screwing the PMA filter on top of an external filter? The thread seems deeper than your average filter. Is there anything special I have to do regarding water getting between the lens and the filter? THANK YOU for all these answers, this info is very helpful!

Hello! I shot a few rolls of Tri-X at the water (both above water and under water) using a Eumig Nautica for the first time. I'm pretty sure it'll be overexposed but some clarification would be helpful! 1. I switched on the orange filter (switched to sun icon) because I was hoping the orange filter would help with contrast while underwater. The Nautica can only do ASA speeds 25D, 100D, 40T or 160T. My understanding is that Tri-X would normally be rated at 160. But since I had it in daylight mode, does that mean it was rated at 100? 2. By how many stops does the orange filter darken the image? I've seen the number 2/3 used--does this mean my film (which normally would have been 200) was effectively a 133 speed? 3. Anyone have experience pulling Tri-X? Would you recommend that I pull it one stop when I get it developed? I'm reluctant to do this because I usually lean toward underexposing film and then pushing it--I did this with one roll of Tri-X with a different camera and I loved the deep blacks and the heavy grain. Am I better off pulling and then potentially having low contrast or processing normally and potentially having overexposure? Which is easier to work with in post? New to BW reversal so not very sure. I'm considering getting the least important roll processed normally and then waiting for the result before processing the rest but curious what others think. Thank you!

Thank you Joerg, this is very helpful!

Resurrecting this thread after some years! Martin, thank you for all this valuable info (both on this thread and the many other threads where your responses have helped me out!) I'm wondering about your comment about the folding grip being the achilles heels of these cameras. You mention that there are exceptions--do any models come to mind? I'm in the process of purchasing a super 8 camera and all the options I'm looking at (Canon 814 models, 1014 models, and Nizo Pro) all have retractable handles. Do all of these have that power supply problem? Another question about these handles: on the Canon 814 models, does it operate when the handle is retracted? Same question for the 1014 models. Finally, I notice that some 814XL models have a handle that retracts backwards (toward the viewfinder) while others have one that folds forwards (towards the lens). Do you know why that is or if it makes other differences? Thank you!