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Mark Dunn

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Posts posted by Mark Dunn

  1. I see there's a complete 16mm IB Tech of "Oklahoma!" on ebay starting at $100. Reckon that will go a bit higher.

    Only problem- it's being listed as flat. But some of the screenshots are squeezed. Could be just the titles. I don't think 'Scope was ever really much of a thing in 16.

    Speaking of B/W vs Technicolor- most of Technicolor was a B/W process. Three strips of monochrome neg.

     

    Now Kodachrome- that was complicated.

  2. 13 hours ago, Daniel D. Teoli Jr. said:

    You want to see some dye transfer prints...buy some on eBay. Not that pricey for 16mm shorts, like trailers. 

    16mm IB Tech for sale | eBay

    But you have to keep looking. I picked up a nice IB Tech trailer for $12+ shipping.

    35mm IB Tech is even cheaper sometimes.

    35mm IB Tech for sale | eBay

    But whether it is 16 or 35, hold out for a nice example to do the IB Tech process justice in your edification process. 

    DT just had a look all their own...

    Blue Skies Fred Astaire 1946 : D.D.Teoli Jr. A.C. : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

    Some of that stuff is almost reasonable. I might get a kick out of having some IB to show on the Steenbeck, just to be able to say I had it.

  3. You'll have my YT reply by now.

    You need two DR83 and one DR70 belt- if you're not interested in sepmag you can forego one DR83. Both sizes are listed on ebay at the moment in the UK. These are the surplus from a bulk purchase of belts from the Cinema Museum in London for servicing its own machines which I have been helping with.

    An alternative source would be Dwight Cody at Cutfilm in MA, USA. You could say I sent you.

    As you suspect the main drive and prism housings do need to be removed- fair to say it's complicated but not difficult and doesn't need any special tools. It's easy to lose the framing so try not to move the teeth on the main drive during the change.

  4. 11 hours ago, Gary Davis said:

    Interesting!  I understand that the late Queen also enjoyed the format... and I'll bet it didn't take her 6 weeks to get her film processed!

    Well if she used Kodachrome, I expect the film at least went to Box 14 in a limo..........or Kodak collected it.

    • Upvote 1
  5. The NAC won't get you anywhere without the matching recorder and camera control unit.

    We used the 200pps version 30+years ago. The camera was only part of the system, which came on its own trolley. The recording only plays on the special machine, it's not compatible with standard VHS, which is irrelevant now of course, but who knows how you'd transfer it to digital for editing.

    16mm. may be your best bet if you can find a Photosonics or a Redlake Locam, which runs to 500. There's one on ebay

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/254642287050

    but the listing doesn't include the control box and coax lead, which is essential. The NAC E-10 rotating prism cameras run up to 20k pps but the quality is quite a bit lower. No idea where you'd find one now.

  6. Bid up, I imagine, by production companies mining the archive.

    I wanted short bits of commag, comopt and sepmag for lineup for sound transcription on the Steenbeck but they were going for silly money. Fortunately I acquired them gratis from clients who didn't want odd trims. The comopt I harvested from junk film used by labs for telecine leader. I recognise some of the actors. I even have S16 footage of big wheels from the 90s but the only ones I can identify are Gerald Ford, Henry Kissinger and Michael Eisner.

  7. Well, the tuition element is about $5300US so somewhat more.. But it's in Budapest, so it may not be expecting US custom. I've been to LA and no offence but I'd rather spend a week in Budapest.

    I suppose you could get half-board for a week in LA for $1k?

  8. I cement spliced at first but dropped it like a hot brick when I was recommended the CIR. Cement splices cannot fail to be more visible as you literally cut a frame in half. If you want to make a new splice you have to cut out two frames, which on an original are gone forever. Even if my Super-8 days were not long over I would certainly never go back.

  9. 1 hour ago, Luuk Schröder said:

    Hi Mark,

    I assume you mean the 'Catozzo C.I.R. M.3 Super8-2T Special' as listed on the super8reversal website. I haven't seen them online yet, but I can imagine its durable and easy to use...

    Personally I use the smaller CIR super8 splicer, which is pretty ok but can leave a small gap in the splice if you are not careful. I find the fuji single 8 splicer with perforated tape the easiest to use.

    Yes, that's the Rolls-Royce version at about €600? which is why most people (and we) have the cheaper version. Unfortunately the pins are fixed so as you say you can get a gap, but you may be able to adjust the frameline on the projector so it doesn't show.

    I believe the 2T may have adjustable pins, but it's no longer listed on the CIR site. I've never seen one on eBay.

  10. Assuming it's the model of splicer with the wrap-around tape, I find (well, found, I haven't cut S8 for 20 years) that taping only one side of the film is sufficient. This reduces the visibility of the splice. You then trim off the excess tape flush with the film edge with sharp scissors.

    I can't remember which side to tape but it's the side that doesn't face the projector gate, so that the splice doesn't lift the film from the gate and put it out of focus. On a reversal original IIRC you would usually tape the emulsion side.

    The splice is weaker than one on both sides, sure, and the tape may eventually dry out, but I've never had one break and some of mine are over 40 years old.

    There was a professional Super-8 CIR which taped each side separately, as you would in 16mm., but they're rare and expensive.

  11. Non-expert here.

    When I pull it into Lightroom and white balance on the white pipe, it reads as not so much green as very deficient in blue- something like R66, G67, B42%. The original does look quite green but it's not so noticeable when corrected. Lightroom puts a substantial magenta tint on it.

    I wonder if it's an effect of the mixed daylight/gelled HMI. Or it just looks green beside the warm colour of the wood and her jumper.

  12. Were you to follow that advice you'd be tending to exaggerate the effect that the film-maker intended. There can be a bit of a wide-angle effect when you sit close to the screen, but if it's too pronounced I'd say the seats had been put too close.

    The projector lens can't have any influence on the perspective in the scene. The focal length is chosen to fill the screen at the prescribed distance, nothing more.

  13. 11 minutes ago, Stephen Perera said:

    Interesting to me in all this is the conversion of Hasselblad Zeiss lenses to use on 70mm cameras in general.....for example my 80mm Planar and 50mm Distagon and maybe even the 110mm.....maybe it's my imagination but I see the flavour of my lenses up there.....

    Quite impressive that the Hasselblad lenses cover what is effectively 6x7cm, territory they never trespassed on. Beside the Planar the Mamiya RB 90mm. is a bit of a brick- no-one seems to be converting them for 15/70 lol.

    My 500C has been in its box for over 20 years now.

  14. 5 hours ago, Benjamin Bosko said:

    Ok, thanks for the clarification. I'm new to shooting film, and I was just looking around for some different 16mm reversal stocks. Couldn't find any info on this stock that clearly stated if it was color or b/w. Thanks again.

     

    Stocks with the suffix "pan" (short for panchromatic, referring to the sensitivity to colour) are always B/W.

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