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Mark Dunn

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Everything posted by Mark Dunn

  1. It's hard to tell as it's hand-held but the camera seems to have quite a bit of weave, because most of the perf movement is lateral. It's quite steady up-down. I believe that the point of the overscan is so that it can be stabilised later with reference to the perf.
  2. Presumably you have something in your contracts about disposal. Of course neg used to stay at labs for a while, but the scan is the equivalent of release printing now as far as you're concerned. So you should either be charging for storage or- out it goes. (I have 20 years of client still negs, and near 30 of my own scanned, neg and slide, but have I actually thrown any away? Of course not. We don't. Someone will do it for us, later.
  3. Something which happened recently pointed up to me that the current generation of film-makers who only occasionally use film just don't regard the OCN as sacred in the same way we do. I was hired for a 16mm. music video shoot with the Steenbeck. The performance had already been shot and scanned, so I was filmed actually running the neg on the Steenbeck. It was S16 and my machine is R16, so some scratching was guaranteed. Then there was the scene of my actually cutting and splicing the neg on a CIR. I asked the directors if they minded where I cut it- could have been at the slat. They didn't mind. As far as they were concerned the neg had done its job. The scan was holy writ. Things move on. I even had to grit my teeth when I cut up some old neg left by a client into loading rolls. He didn't need it anymore either.
  4. Adding on the fact that an SR1 is getting on for 50 years old (could be 1975) I get the feeling it's not a keeper.
  5. Well not running properly would be a deal-breaker for me if sold as a runner, unless it was very cheap. After all the board could be fried.
  6. Hope this isn't bad news- Kodak taking its eye off the ball.
  7. That's a bit tiresome. You'll have to get really expert at hearing when the film ends. Or just get a feeling for your shot length. A quarter of the cart is 50sec at 18, so not very helpful. How good is your exterior footage counter? The one on my old camera is marked off every 10 feet and the divisions are about 1/4" apart, so you can gauge the length remaining to a couple of feet. A foot is 4 seconds at 18. The sound should change quite a bit when the claw is no longer pulling on the perfs, but running fresh film just to listen to it is a bit expensive these days. Try listening on a projector if you have one. You can try to stop the drive dog rotating and listen to the change in sound as well.
  8. Does the indicator bar look any different, or behave differently, when the film ends? Can't think what it might do- a change in opacity, or movement, or something. There was always some way of indicating when the film ran out. I could always tell by the sound, but that would be something you have to get used to. There was always some visual way of indicating when the film ran out IME. But then I only ever used three or four cameras. I think a camera that actually stopped when the film ran out would have been very prone to stoppages. It would have had to detect the load on the drive clutch, and with a Super-8 cart that's quite variable.
  9. There should be a run flag in the viewfinder. One of my cameras had a little moving pointer, another, a green LED which stopped flashing when the film ran out. If there's some symbol or marker in there that's not doing anything, perhaps that's your problem. You can test it with no cartridge- it should be moving/flashing or whatever it's supposed to. It shouldn't cause any damage- there's a friction clutch to disconnect the mechanism from the drive dog when the cartridge spindle stops. Anyway you get an idea for how long a cartridge lasts- so many 5- or 10- second shots in a 200-second cartridge (at 18) or 150 at 24. Edit: I've just read the manual -this one? https://www.super8camera.com/manuals/leicina-super-rt1-manual.pdf it says the transport stops when the film runs out. I'm not sure if that means that the motor stops dead- that would be unusual. It doesn't mention a run indicator. But we've already had some imprecise language with the shutter angle, haven't we?
  10. Here's a spec for a 1000ft/minute machine, looks like 6kW for the drive, 6kW for the pump and another 8kW for the dryer. So you're not plugging it into your house supply. https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/38481322/specifications-for-negative-film-processor
  11. Well "<" does indeed mean "less than" in mathematics, but 180 was about standard for non-XL S8, IIRC, for a nominal exposure time of 1/36sec at 18fps. I can only think it's a casual use of the symbol in the manual because I can't imagine a German manufacturer being so vague as to give an approximate shutter angle for something that would have been made to very precise measurements.
  12. Just tape the black bag down inside the can. Label the can so they know it's not 35mm😉
  13. Well there you have it. Remember that 100' on a core, (in a black bag because the box is not lightproof) will not fit in the plastic Kodak box. If you don't need the whole 100' you could just discard the excess film. If you do, I would tell the lab it is short.
  14. Daylight spools scrape on the magazine lid in some cameras- IIRC they sometimes did in the ST. Reading what Baltasar says about spool locks, if you have them, probably not. But noise wouldn't matter for a test anyway.
  15. It's not- it's a variation on how we were told to do it at film school. Just blip the start button a few times until you see the flyback bar close to the top (or bottom) of the screen. The mirror and film are 180deg out of phase so the bar will record at the bottom (or top) of the screen.
  16. Too bad- you did have it all. Nearly. A pound to a penny it will be going for scrap, unfortunately. Unless, as you say.........
  17. I'm not sure the TRV will be a whole lot better than that, except for the convenience. For much less money you could probably rig a right-angle mirror and have the DV record the image directly. There used to be clip-on viewers for projectors that did this. $100....if you can spare it, maybe.
  18. You can't possibly have even an electronic shutter open wider than 360 degrees, so the limitation is the reciprocal of the frame rate. That sequence was of course shot on film- it's either step-printed- you see each frame more than once, hence the freeze-frame effect- or printed from non-adjacent frames. It may even have been shot on an SLR with a motor drive. You don't need to undercrank to get that effect- that's not how it was done. Undercranking speeds up action, it doesn't slow it down.
  19. Seems to be a composite NTSC output so you would need to convert that to digital to get it onto a PC. In fact in Australia you couldn't even record it on a PAL VCR without standards conversion. If it's a PAL version that would be a bit easier but you'd still have to digitize the signal. otherwise you would be limited to viewing on a monitor with the correct inputs. Manual here https://issuu.com/cinema62/docs/pdf-elmo_trv-16_user_manual_23_page Of course you can't project with it, the image goes straight into the camera. The resolution is pretty poor, lower even than SD. I would want to pay less than $370. About £200, right? It's not a very good way of getting a decent 16mm. image onto a computer. Seems to me that for testing only, an actual projector might suit you better. But they seem to cost more. There's one in NSW on ebay starting at $99 looks ok item number 334626547722
  20. If you don't know about it already, I'm using the "Video Tachometer" app on iPhone. It uses the camera. I got it to set the speed on the Steenbeck, but it might suit you for this job. I use it to freeze the motion of the sprocket teeth but I don't see why it wouldn't work on the shutter. Just shine a light through the lens mount and if you see the gate you have a rough guide. I could imagine drawing a wavy line on some junk film and seeing if the app shows it as stationary. You adjust the frequency on the app until the moving part is stationary, then you have the running speed. It's accurate to 0.1Hz- in our case, that's 0.1 fps of course. You use a torck for illumination, it doesn't use the camera's LED. It's also fun to check the mains frequency by looking at an LED bulb.
  21. The website doesn't mention cine processing at all, but anyway, the post is 12 years old and the OP has not been on the site for 5 years.
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