Mark Dunn

Sounds right, Super-8 was always a bit less than a 135/36 process paid slide film, at least Agfachrome was, always somewhat cheaper than K40. Last time I bought K40 in 1996, it was £11.50.

As Brian says, even with your film-saving efforts, your film still has to be attached to the bulk roll for processing somehow, tape or staples. You can't avoid losing some film.

Yeah, probably the Lawrence of Arabia re-release in 1989 at the Odeon Leicester Square. The curtains closing over the 'Intermission' subtitle.

? I'm not convinced that you could rely on a splice to go through the mechanism without risking losing the loop. A splicer can cut into the perf and leave behind the sticky chads- you can't check for them in the dark. 100' loads have an allowance of a few feet either end for loading/unloading. I could be wrong, but I don't think splicing tape is resistant to processing chemicals. I think there's a good reason why lengths of raw stock are stapled for processing and not spliced.

That's some catch-up. Good luck.

Strictly speaking, shot on a Fries 5/65, blown up to 15/70.

Mine was near-mint when I collected it from Wardour Street in 2005 and it's just had its first rental since, so not a lot of wear and no missing chrome. The guide rails don't (or shouldn't) bear on the picture area or tracks, and a lot of the time the stock doesn't touch them anyway. If you do have problem areas, maybe some chrome polish. I think I filed smooth some of the countersunk screws that hold the guides in place. I wouldn't have thought the filament orientation makes much difference in a condenser lens setup. A pic-sync isn't IMAX- you just needs to be able to see the image. Fine detail and lighting you judge on a Steenbeck anyway. Edit: just had a look and mine has black painted aluminium on the picture track and plastic on the mags. It's a late model.

16mm? Mine takes a 12V 20W G4. I don't know what else to suggest. If it's a very old hand-cranked version it could be different, I don't know about those. Have you checked the pin spacing at the socket? Should be 4mm. of course. Can you put up a photo?

To be fair, that's just a thumbnail illustrating an archived piece of software.

Any chance of hosting somewhere else? Imgur isn't available in the UK as it won't comply with the online safety law here.

Looking at some instructions online, https://www.urbanskifilm.com/TCS_Public_PDF/TTL.pdf I'd say yours just has (or rather hasn't) missing knobs. I think the knobs just engage with the screw slots to make them simpler to turn. They probably hold on with a rubber ring and yours have just fallen out. If I'm right, a flat screwdriver will be fine, just not too tight.

Surely a walk-away sign, and if someone's been careless enough to chip the mirror presumably with a lens rear element, what else have they done?

This is 35mm. Once only.

Point being that the supply of metal spools has ended as of now. So if you have them, you need a way of hanging on to them. Labs are going to have to get used to returning them.

I bet it's different, but in case it isn't, here goes. Some of the coatings in our car interior went tacky and horrid. I cleaned it off with white spirit (or meths, can't remember which) on a kitchen scouring pad, the mylar type. Another time I would try IPA. The idea wasn't to strip it off with a solvent, just help it off with a light scrub. Had I had one I would have tried a Brillo pad.