Jump to content

Mark Dunn

Basic Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Occupation
  • Location

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Recent Profile Visitors

43329 profile views
  1. No shortage of longer lenses, of course, but normal and wide angles are a problem. Even the ordinary ones are more expensive now they can be adapted for mirrorless.
  2. Not for a tungsten filament. Think about it- you wouldn't be able to use a torch if the bulb couldn't be in any orientation. But as the bulb is in a fixed bayonet fitting you can't adjust it anyway. It is important for some large halogen lamps, but not this one. I don't know how it's constructed- my Muray viewer has a plastic back and side moulding which comes off vertically- but looking at the photograph I think you're right. The transformer will probably be attached to the base so take care. I see it has only a twin-core cable which means it's not electrically earthed. I would want to check that the 220V wires are well away from the metal case. You would be unlikely to get a bad shock- if your house has modern wiring the circuit breakers would protect you- but I would want to make sure. Modern appliances tend to have plastic casings and extra insulation but this is a 60-year-old machine made when safety standards were different. Don't be concerned, however- most likely it will be fine.
  3. You can check it out yourself, it's very simple electrically- just a 220V transformer with a 6V output for the bulb- just make sure it's unplugged. Take the casing off and if there are any loose or burnt wires, find out why. The output is only a few watts and the transformer should not get very warm at all. Since the bulb works, it's very unlikely that there's a fault.
  4. There are some fisheyes, 8 and 16mm, I think, but otherwise it's very limited under 24mm. M42 was a stills format. There's a wide-angle adapter for the Meteor zoom, but the quality won't be brilliant. That would take you down to about 12 https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/626828-REG/Cavision_LWA07X77_LWA07X77_0_7x_Wide_Angle.html
  5. The second one is much sharper- is it possible the anamporphic was off vertical on the first one, or your focus was off (second shot is much closer). Your cat looks very concerned- had she just seen the first clip or something?😃
  6. The smell could just be years of accumulated dust on the transformer getting warm, it's harmless. Rollers. You're right to clean them but the only touch the film at the edges, not in the image area. I would be more concerned that the metal gate was as clean as possible. You should be able to get it out by removing the screws. I put small pieces of soft fabric on mine where the film is in contact, but if the metal is clean and well polished that may not be necessary. I wouldn't worry about the foam. It's not a halogen bulb as I said, so doesn't get very hot.
  7. I think that piece of foam is just to stop light from the bulb shining onto the screen so you can leave it. The bulb isn't a halogen type so it doesn't have to be completely clean. Halogen bulbs run much hotter.
  8. You are probably unlikely to have damaged your health permanently with one whiff of smoke, but if you're concerned, go to see your doctor. Be careful with the acetone as well. If you are very careful you might also be able to scrape the burnt foam off with a craft knife. As you have isopropyl alcohol, try that first, but it may not be very effective. If it's packing foam, and it looks old- and wasn't put there by your seller- the machine may never have been used. If you can't fix it, the bulbs are not difficult to replace.
  9. To me a cement splice is a step backwards. It overlaps the film so it effectively cuts two frames in half. It is very obvious on screen, especially at 18pps, and if you need to remake a splice, you lose two frames.
  10. I doubt you can divine much from a Youtube video viewed on a (dare I guess uncalibrated?) computer monitor. Not only do I think it was beautifully shot by Jack Hildyard, the Academy did too. It's useful to a lighting cameraman (that's English for DP) to be able to analyse a shot in great detail, but it's as well to remember the feeling of a scene. Here, for example, the contrast between the beauty of the sunset and the abject horror of the POW's plight on the Burma Railway. Who said counterpoint was only for music. They don't make 'em like that anymore. Lean hardly did again; after Kwai, he got slower that Kubrick.
  11. You can usually rack the flash out on a projector, but unfortunately it's inherent on the Super-8 CIR. Mine has it too and it's always been a bit annoying. I always assumed it was due to innacuracy in manufacture, but hearing that you have it as well, perhaps it's intended as it's preferable to having the ends overlap. If you do manage to get the ends closer together , the splice may jump on projection anyway because you've effectively shortened the perforation pitch. It will show on a scan because they're usually overscanned to include framelines and perfs, but you can persumably crop it in post. It's not much different from TV safe action and safe title (look them up)- you never put important action close to the edges of the frame. Some of the 16mm. splicers have an adjustable pin to eliminate the flash- it's meant for shrunken film- but it was never an option in S8. Incidentally mine cost the equivalent of about €10 in 1978- they sure got expensive!
  12. I haven't loaded a Bolex since 1980 but I'm sure there must be plenty of H16 loading videos on Youtube. I see that the Rex5 has automatic threading- have you disengaged the loop formers after threading? Your software isn't translating "loop former" properly. I can't help with that. Do you have instructions in Italian? How's this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF81ynqejeo
  13. You don't need to load daylight spools in the dark- just out of direct sunlight, preferably indoors, but it's not essential. Just keep the spool out of bright light. If the loops are touching the formers they're too big. Reduce them by one frame or whatever's necessary to get them clear.
  14. That's a BNC as well, with side finder offset more than usual for some reason. Something to do with the 'Scope lens hood?
  15. Yes. I've correlated stills with the call sheet on my last show and the fractions match- episode/scene number. "Take" is just that, the take number for the setup. ("Ipcress File". The scene with the Steenbeck was cut🙄)
  • Create New...