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Found 8 results

  1. Im am curious to gather some opinions. I plan on shooting a short in the near future on 16mm. Naturally my choice of stocks are limited to Kodak, and for production purposes 250D would be my best option. Now, really hate doing color correction and DI. I dont like doing it myself, and I dont want to pay to get a colorist to do it for me. I am wondering, how accurate are the colors of 250D, raw out of the stock? What sort of work would I have to do in post to make them accurate. Are there options for me in filtration to normalize the stock? My thought process is, that I want the stock to hav
  2. Originally posted in FILM STOCKS Im am curious to gather some opinions. I plan on shooting a short in the near future on 16mm. Naturally my choice of stocks are limited to Kodak, and for production purposes 250D would be my best option. Now, really hate doing color correction and DI. I dont like doing it myself, and I dont want to pay to get a colorist to do it for me. I am wondering, how accurate are the colors of 250D, raw out of the stock? What sort of work would I have to do in post to make them accurate. Are there options for me in filtration to normalize the stock? My thought proces
  3. Hello folks. I'm reading conflicting stuff about the rating of 16mm stock. Do you guys rate your stock a full stop over or 2/3 for day exterior? How about night exterior? I'll be shooting 250D and 50D mostly for now, on regular 16. I'm already compensating for the prism light loss on my Bolex Rex5 so I don't want to overexpose too much. What are your experiences? Thanks for your input!
  4. Hey, Ive got about 4000' of old fuji that I am planning on shooting a short on. Ive had it for about 6 years in my fridge. its half Eterna 250T 8553 and half Eterna 250D 8546. I just got the snip test back from fotokem and it looks like my layers are between .25 (red and green) and .70 (blue) off from what they should be. Im wondering if, for instance, I could add a yellow filter to my lens when I shoot to make the overall shift of my blue channel get back more in line with the other channels? Does it work that simply, or am I missing something. My thinking goes that if I add 1
  5. Hi, I have a couple of questions that I'd greatly appreciate any help or advice with regarding shooting with natural light. For an upcoming shoot, one of the scenes written is set on a beach and involves a simple conversation between two characters. The director would like it to be shot in overcast weather - he'd like it to look grey, miserable and "flat", but in an aesthetically pleasing (cinematic?) way. I'm concerned that shooting in overcast weather won't look good, and would love anyones input on how to go about this, or examples of films that have managed it well? The area I
  6. Hi, I'm a student cinematographer with a shoot coming up, on 16mm with the Arri SR3. I have a couple of shoots planned during the blue phase of magic hour (civil twilight and the blue hour), on a beach. I think I'm correct in saying that I need to shoot with daylight colour balance to match the blue tones in the sky as tungsten will make them even cooler? I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on the different aesthetics of 500T and 250D? (aside from the obvious sensitivity and colour balance differences). Is there any particular advantage (visual or otherwise) to shooting 500t wi
  7. Hey guys, I'm looking for a bit of advice, stock-wise. We're shooting the first ten minutes of our feature film this month and unfortunately my DP is as unfamiliar with film as I am. For outdoor scenes, I'm looking into the KODAK Vision 3 250D. One shot in particular, we transition from the roof of our building to the inside of our apartment. I dug up an article on Fuji's old 250. The tester claimed it would work very well under such a transition. I'm assuming that Kodak can achieve the same result? http://www.fujifilm.com/products/motion_picture/lineup/eterna_vivid250d/demo/ w
  8. Hey guys, anyone know the difference between the 200T and the 250D? I understand the 250D is for daylight. But for the 200T, its shot alot in daylight, so whats the advantage - AND its tungsten balanced....so it would make sense to shoot at night...with slow speed??? Doesnt make sense. Anyway, hopefully you guys will be able to explain. And please dumb down the technical lingo a tad lol Im not a cinematographer - just someone who wants to learn. I do storyboards, and i might direct in the future and knowing this may come in handy. Thanks! Also, how far can I underexpose with the 200T?? And
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