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I know of Cinelab Boston, and that's about it. Is that the only option on the market for development of E-6 35mm motion picture film?

I've been experimenting with B&W reversal developing recently using some DIY chemicals and I was wondering about the clearing bath. What exactly does it do? I've heard that it prevents your film from having a yellow cast (a problem I've been encountering), but how exactly does it do that? Where is the yellow coming from? Is it silver oxide? I've heard about three different clearing bath chemicals, sodium sulphite, sodium metabisulphite and potassium metabisulphite. Do they all do the the same thing or does it depend on which bleach you use?

Hi, Does anyone knows how to expose this film in the two configuration mentionned ? is it possible to have good result in low light by pushing in development ? (any experience with that ?) I am opened to any tips regarding reversal film treatment as a 1st AC (conservation, use and elese ...) For upcoming projects, i am wondering how it would look like. The first one is a low light / hangar / industrial environment with light coming from a dancefloor with 5 people on it (the aim would be to have color effect / aberration and dynamism like in the 'domino' movie, the dancefloor lights would help accomplishing this nighclub ambiance) The second one is more of a natural ambiance in bright daylight with characters in the frame running on a road and other narratives sequences in the city ... Thanks in advance ! cheers

Hello guys and gals, So, yesterday, while processing some Tri-X Super 8, something nightmareish happened during the second developpement after re-exposure : after 1 min in the 2nd developer (where the emulsion properly reacted and darkened), it slightly started to lift from the plastic and then it litteraly disloved into the developper : no floating gelatin flakes, just a plain black developer... The weird thing is that I already processed Tri-X this way, here is an example : https://vimeo.com/326184819 Here is my protocole, I have included as much info as I can : 1 – Soaking in a 25°C water bath. 2 – 1st Developer : Ilford Multigrad 1+9, 20min (continuous agitation on 1st minute, then 10sec each minute), 25°C. 3 – Hardening stop bath : Adox EcoStop 1+29 + 40ml/L of Tetenal Hardener. 6 min, 20°C, continuous agitation. (https://www.fotoimpex.com/chemistry/tetenal-hardener-to-be-added-to-the-fixer-or-stop-bath-1000-ml.html?cache=1564733928) 4 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. 5 – Bleach : Potassium permanganate 0,4% + Sulfuric Acid 10% equal part, 6 min, 20°C, continuous agitation. 6 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. 7 – Clearing bath, Sodium metabisulfite 6%, 2 min, 20°C, continous agitation. 8 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. 9 – Hardening stop bath : Adox EcoStop 1+29 + 40ml/L of Tetenal Hardener. 6 min, 20°C, continuous agitation. 10 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. RE-EXPOSURE : 2x1min 80W 1m in a white tank filled with water. 11 – 2nd Developer : Ilford Multigrad 1+9, 4min (stand), 25°C. The same solution I used as 1st developer. And that's where the emulsion dissolved.... Usually, after that, I use an hardening fixer for 5 minute, washing 10 min on runing water, rinse with distilled water, let it dry and digitalise with a Retroscann Universal. It's fastidious, but cheap ! Side notes : - Processing in Lomo Tank. - I know Ilford says not to use Ilford Multigrade for processing film (Universal PQ is recommanded instead), but through my test phase it was the only thing I had on hand, so I tried and it worked as you could see on vimeo. - I've never found any information about the shelf lif of the Tetenal hardener. As it is supposed to be mixed with Stop or Fix, I mixed it with the Adox Eco Stop to be sure I won't use an hardening bath tha is no longer working. Anyway, I mixed a new solution and it was still a disaster. - I use the hardener to compensate the softening of the emusion by the bleach. One bath before to strenghten, one bath after to reinforce. I thing the bleach isnt to blame, otherwise it the continous agitation in the clearing bath would have the same mechanical effect, so I guess it is a chemistery issue. The film is perfectly fine during re-exposure, bleaching is complete, after touching the film, the emulsion is normal. - I dont know why the developper is dissolving the emulsion on second use but work perfectly fine on the first one. So that's it, if anyone have an idea, i'm all ears ! Thanks ! Jérémy

Hi friends, I'm reversal processing Tri-X Super8 film using Dokumol (paper developer) and Dichromate/sulphuric acid bleach. My first attempts were good, but I mixed up a new batch of chemistry and now it seems that there is no shadow detail. The highlight areas are good, but the shadows all fall to complete black. I'm not sure what part of the process might be causing this. Maybe if the bleach is too strong, would that have this effect? I used a different source for the sulphuric acid, perhaps of a different concentration than previously.