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Found 4 results

  1. Hey all! I'm doing a showreel shoot this August, and it will probably be really sunny and have a out door location coming up. Due to the limited budget and power available, the biggest light i can get is a off brand 2.5k HMI and a home made 6by diffusion from shower curtain. I was wonder if these are enough to make a impact? My indie rental house didn't tell me which model of HMI we are getting, but it's safe to assume it won't be as effective as the Arris (maybe matching output of M18 idf we're lucky) . I'm not diffusion the light, maybe a 1/4 or 1/8 cto max for some scenes. Any input will be appreciated as always. Jing
  2. Hi all. Excited to ask my very first question on this forum! For an upcoming short, I'm trying to achieve a pastel, somewhat low-contrast color palette in a bright daytime exterior, very much like the attached reference image from Vertigo. Being a micro budget project, I don't have the opportunity to pre test a bunch of filters or lenses. Any recommendations on filtration for this reduced contrast, slightly blooming look? For the project, I'm using the Ikonoskop A-Cam DII. I own this camera, and the colors from its Super16 Kodak CCD sensor feel inherently pure and dare I say film-like. I'm pairing it with oldish glass, the Cooke 9-50 Varokinetal (T2.5). I've rented this lens before and it is not only affordable but renders a very creamy three dimensional image. I've attached a sample I shot with this configuration, no filters. Just need to turn that into something less contrasty, more talcumy, more "vintage" for lack of a better word. Thank you! Jall
  3. Hello group, Just got my Sekonic L 398 A. The classic external light meter. I am browsing the web for weeks on external light metering and all I see is people measuring the incidental light with the white dome, pointing at the camera (hmmm....). That's all fine but I couldn't find anything about different methods - for example: landscapes, complex lighting with fill lights/reflectors, back lights, sunsets, beach scenes during sun set with complex lighting (light bouncing off the rocks, people moving, sun just out of the frame, etc.). Way too much "information" about staged, posed or studio situations in stills photography (a lot of it seems dead wrong BTW!) and way too few about cinematography where things are moving and one needs to decide what is the most important area (or find a good average exposure - I know: on neg film blown highlights are not as bad as crushed shadows, reversal is unforgiving on both sides....). I won't use the camera's internal meter at all (which will be way off anyway). So how do I measure the incoming (reflected) light and use some common sense (such as making up a stop or two for the sun, snow, exterior light coming through windows, the usual drill...). Do I hold the light meter with the white disc (instead of the dome) in front of my lens - to emulate an internal meter? Do I screw on the grid which also comes with the light meter? Any input where to get reliable and comprehensive/complete information (I'll study and learn - and practice, but obviously not right away on expensive, rare film stock, waiting for it to return!) highly appreciated. Christian
  4. I'm talking about the look of the sun synonomous with Terrence Malick films. It was all of The Tree of Life, showed up a few times in To the Wonder, and I'm pretty sure a similar technique was used in Mud. When the sun is in frame, it appears to have a circle of very defined lines portruding around it. How is this effect achieved? I know that Tree of Life shot using Ultra Primes, is this result achieved by stopping down the UPs? Or is this effect achieved using a filter? Let me know your thoughts! http://www.moviola.org/images/TreeofLife.png http://www.ropeofsilicon.com/american-society-of-cinematographers-award-the-tree-of-life-best-cinematography-of-2011/ (The effect can be seen in both these stills) Best, Drew
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