Iain Trimble Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Would you put some plus green over daylight kino tubes to match fluorescent light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Adrian Sierkowski Posted February 8, 2012 Premium Member Share Posted February 8, 2012 It depends on if the tubes need plus green. A color meter would be handy here.. You could also just get the same type of tubes used in the overheads and put them on your Kinos, then throw the appropriate minus green filter on the camera. Lots of ways to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Rosenbloom Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 I second Adrian's advice to just put matching tubes in your Kino's. The tough part, though, is if you've got light sources other than those Flo's. Anything that's not green will be captured magenta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew Maw Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 It depends on if the tubes need plus green. A color meter would be handy here.. You could also just get the same type of tubes used in the overheads and put them on your Kinos, then throw the appropriate minus green filter on the camera. Lots of ways to do it. But how do you deal with flicker? I was in a conversation just yesterday about this very thing: a DP used fluorescents and was able to avoid recording the infamous flicker lines. I know you can adjust shutter speed/angle to deal with it, but it never gets rid of it completely... Also, you can put standard fluorescent tubes in kino banks? Why would someone do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Parnell Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 If you are shooting in an office where there are 8 rows of 10 fluro fittings. Each fitting has two tubes. That's 160 fluro tubes you have to firstly acquire, secondly swap out and trouble shoot(there is always that one fitting with issues) then thirdly once you are done shooting you have to swap them back to the way they were. That's an awful lot of labour and cost. Or you could change the 12 tubes in your three 4'Quad kinos to the same tubes as the overheads to create a consistent colour bias across the whole image that can be corrected either using a filter on the camera, or in post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Parnell Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 As for the flicker it depends on the fittings. Some have the older style induction ballasts that operate at mains frequency, whereas others have high frequency electronic ballasts that are much more friendly. Given that it can be quite difficult to tell the two types apart, It's wise to just stick to the old Flicker Free Safe Speed charts. Some CMOS chip camera's rolling shutter issues can be painful, but that's the drawback of the tech. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew Maw Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 As for the flicker it depends on the fittings. Some have the older style induction ballasts that operate at mains frequency, whereas others have high frequency electronic ballasts that are much more friendly. Given that it can be quite difficult to tell the two types apart, It's wise to just stick to the old Flicker Free Safe Speed charts. Some CMOS chip camera's rolling shutter issues can be painful, but that's the drawback of the tech. Gotcha. So just shoot at 30p (29.97) and convert to 24p in post? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now