Canon 512 XL repair help!

[Andy Barry]

Sorry for the terrible video, it's really hard to do this one handed. Anyway, the trigger on my canon 512XL is stuck. Every time i press it, no matter what it stays rolling. I found when opening it that I could push that little thing back in to stop it, but that obviously won't work in the long run. I tried getting under that PCB to see what's under it but I can't seem to do that without unsoldering a capacitor, something I am not confident in. Has anyone run into this issue or know what may be able to fix it? Thank you in advance!

I had posted this on reddit with a video but got no responses. This is a link with the video if it helps at all. 

 

[Mark Dunn]

If you can shoot some high-speed video (with the phone on a tripod!) you may get a better look at what's going on.

But that board may have to come off. Soldering isn't so scary, just practise a bit first.

[Andy Barry]

8 hours ago, Mark Dunn said:

If you can shoot some high-speed video (with the phone on a tripod!) you may get a better look at what's going on.

But that board may have to come off. Soldering isn't so scary, just practise a bit first.

Ya I think I might just have to but I'd rather not lol. I tried once in the past and it went OK but scary

[David Cremer]

One slightly unusual thing about the 512 is that if you have the lid off like that then it does get stuck on Run (as though the trigger is depressed). On the back side of the PCB (under the spider-shaped copper rotating piece at bottom right) there is a lever. The Run switch on the camera case moves both the copper rotating piece and the lever behind the PCB. When I have worked on 512s it is a bit annoying as when you go to test them you pull the trigger and it gets stuck on Run until you use a screwdriver to (from memory) move the lever up / counter clockwise.

So in summary it is normal for the camera to stay running if you pull the trigger with the side of the camera removed.

If it is also doing it with the side on then check that the little bar sticking out from the rear of the Run knob is not bent and is engaging both the copper spider and the lever under the PCB.

When replacing the side you also need to make sure that the Run knob bar is both going through the square gap in the copper piece, and is below the lever behind the PCB.