How to turn on a Super 8 camera

[VincentD.]

Hey everybody,

 

I'm having trouble turning on my super 8 camera, if anybody can help me out and fill me in on how to turn this on, I would really appreciate it.

 

Here is a link to the camera: http://www.sk8scamera.com/NIZO1048.html

 

I already have the film loaded in, its just being a pain turning it on.

 

Thanks,

 

Vince.

Edited May 10, 2006 by VincentD.

[Guest santo]

On the bottom side of the handle should be a button of sorts that will do the trick. Push down on the trigger on top and move the button on the bottom side and it should work.

[Alessandro Machi]

On the bottom side of the handle should be a button of sorts that will do the trick. Push down on the trigger on top and move the button on the bottom side and it should work.

 

What type of batteries are you using?

[VincentD.]

Santo, I did exactly that but nothing happens. What should happen when the camera is running?

 

Alessandro, I'm using 6 AA batteries.

[Canney]

I would ask the people who sold u the camera how to turn it on but there could be another thing. If you camera has a little power safety switch that you must push in order to activate and run the camera, the wire that runs to it and the cameras main body could have become separated. This usually happens when it ages or snags when moving the handel between the postion for filming and storage. If so you should be able to detach the handel and resoilder it but this is only if it is an extreame case.

[Alessandro Machi]

Santo, I did exactly that but nothing happens. What should happen when the camera is running?

 

Alessandro, I'm using 6 AA batteries.

 

 

I know you're using AA batteries, but what kind are they? There are at least six kinds of batteires you could be using. NiCad rechargeables, Alkaline Rechargeables, NiMH rechargeables, alkaline non-rechargeables, Carbon zinc mix(non-alkaline), and lithium.

 

Which type of batteries were you using?

[Alessandro Machi]

I know you're using AA batteries, but what kind are they? There are at least six kinds of batteires you could be using. NiCad rechargeables, Alkaline Rechargeables, NiMH rechargeables, alkaline non-rechargeables, Carbon zinc mix(non-alkaline), and lithium.

 

Which type of batteries were you using?

 

Vincent, I bumped this thread to see if you had resolved the camera issue you were having.

[VincentD.]

Alessandro,

 

I have it all figured out now. Turns out my friend loaded the batteries the wrong way...lol.

 

Thanks for everybody's help!

[Alessandro Machi]

Alessandro,

 

I have it all figured out now. Turns out my friend loaded the batteries the wrong way...lol.

 

Thanks for everybody's help!

 

It would be useful to know which batteries you are using. You should also check the battery holder and inside the camera handle for information in regards to which type of batteries to use. Although there are six different types of double AA batteries you can put in there, you may be best off with Alkaline rechargeables.

[Guest santo]

you may be best off with Alkaline rechargeables.

 

Really? What manufacturers do you recommend, Alex??? I thought rechargeable Alkalines were discredited?

 

Why not NiCds or NiMh? I used NiMh in my former 3056 all the time with perfect results. Also in all three Leicina Specials I've had (down to two NOS ones now).

 

However, I do know that some electronic devices don't work with NiMh -- I'm writing this from a cordless keyboard and mouse combo that doesn't work properly with anything but Alkalines! Otherwise, the mouse flutters and skips on the screen and the keyboard misses strokes! I'm using Energizer Titaniums which are excellent, but I'm thinking of getting new keyboard/mouse because rechargeables kick ass and I want to use them.

 

But my Nizo 3056 worked great with NiMh.

[Alessandro Machi]

Really? What manufacturers do you recommend, Alex??? I thought rechargeable Alkalines were discredited?

 

Why not NiCds or NiMh? I used NiMh in my former 3056 all the time with perfect results. Also in all three Leicina Specials I've had (down to two NOS ones now).

 

However, I do know that some electronic devices don't work with NiMh -- I'm writing this from a cordless keyboard and mouse combo that doesn't work properly with anything but Alkalines! Otherwise, the mouse flutters and skips on the screen and the keyboard misses strokes! I'm using Energizer Titaniums which are excellent, but I'm thinking of getting new keyboard/mouse because rechargeables kick ass and I want to use them.

 

But my Nizo 3056 worked great with NiMh.

 

 

I have a Nizo 2056 and a Nizo 4056, NEITHER Nizo camera would run off of my rechargeable NiMH energizers. I tried over and over, including swapping battery compartments, the cameras would not run at all, then I put in the rechargeable alkalines that came with one of the cameras, and BOTH cameras worked.

 

The battery compartment says to use 1.5 volt alkaline batteries, which would preclude using the Ni-Cads which are 1.25, and I recall years ago that Pro-8mm had problems when they used regular alkalines in these cameras, which could mean that a fresh non-rechargeable alkaline might have too much voltage for these cameras. So by process of elimination, it looks like the alkalkine rechargeables may be the way to go for these four digit model Nizo's, and ironically, that is what came with one of the cameras at the time of purchase.

 

This by the way, is opposite to how I feel about rechargeables for all other Super-8 cameras, in which I think the NiMH with the 2500 MAH maybe be a more logical choice because of their higher current capacity.

[Guest santo]

The battery compartment says to use 1.5 volt alkaline batteries

 

...

 

So by process of elimination, it looks like the alkalkine rechargeables may be the way to go for these four digit model Nizo's, and ironically, that is what came with one of the cameras at the time of purchase.

 

Isn't that strange. I remember first buying rechargeables for the Nizo 3056 because the battery box was marked NiCd with a recharge plug-in. Also, NiCd recharger (the Accu charger) was a Nizo accessory for the sound series and the Nizo Professional.

 

The box in my Nizo looked like this with the little plug in for the charger:

 

 

and the Accu charger for NiCd looks like this:

 

 

Plus you're the only person I've ever read on a webboard who had problems using NiMh in a sound Nizo. Maybe your cameras need servicing?

[Guest santo]

Plus, rechargeable alkalines were not available to the consumer until the early 90's! The four digit sound Nizos were from the late 70's to early 80's. They employed rechargeable NiCd's.

 

http://www.digital-camera-battery.net/history.htm

 

I looked at your website / board, Alex, and you're making no sense on there. I mean, really:

 

As soon as I switched to the alkaline rechargeables, the cameras worked perfectly.

I seem to recall that these Nizo Cameras are sensitive to higher voltages so that leads me to conclude that using RECHARGEABLE ALKALINES ONLY be the way to go.

 

One of the two cameras I purchased actually came with Alkaline rechargeables in them and perhaps this was one of those quirks that was well known 10 years ago but nobody bothered to post on any of the forums. I've never run across a discussion about what to actually use in these sound Nizo cameras and that's a shame because they may be finicky when it comes to what type of power they require.

 

My testing did not include NiCAD's, only NiMH and Alkaline rechargeables, but the labeling on the battery holder and inside the battery handle of ONE of the cameras states... "nur NC-akku only".

 

I posted extensively on this issue, as did others, and it was all made very clear dozens of times. OBVIOUSLY NC stands for Nickle Cadmium. It sure doesn't stand for Alkaline.

 

I expect higher standards from you, Alex, running a super 8 discussion board and all. You need to print a correction on your webboard to save face.

[Alessandro Machi]

Plus, rechargeable alkalines were not available to the consumer until the early 90's! The four digit sound Nizos were from the late 70's to early 80's. They employed rechargeable NiCd's.

 

http://www.digital-camera-battery.net/history.htm

 

I looked at your website / board, Alex, and you're making no sense on there. I mean, really:

I posted extensively on this issue, as did others, and it was all made very clear dozens of times. OBVIOUSLY NC stands for Nickle Cadmium. It sure doesn't stand for Alkaline.

 

I expect higher standards from you, Alex, running a super 8 discussion board and all. You need to print a correction on your webboard to save face.

 

If you're going to fly off the handle and make accusations about something I wrote (incorrect accusations), don't clip the quote you use that conveniently leaves out the next three sentences.

 

Santo, did you leave out the next three sentences from my post on purpose?

 

----------------------------------------------------

 

the next three sentences that Santo did not include were.........

 

.........."My testing did not include NiCAD's, only NiMH and Alkaline rechargeables, but the labeling on the battery holder and inside the battery handle of ONE of the cameras states... "nur NC-akku only".

 

I don't know what that means, but on the battery compartment it states... "Nur alkali - Mangan" followed by the English version... "Alkaline Manganese Batteries Recommended".

 

If nur means use, that would mean use NC-akku only.... but what does the "NC" mean, Nicads???"

 

-------------------------------------

 

Santo, in no way did I make a final conclusion in the post you are refering to, I was simply reporting what I had tested.

 

The Nizo battery holder has a imbossed message on the battery itself that states one should use 1.5 volt batteries. Nicads are not 1.5 volts, they are rated at 1.2 volts.

 

There is also an internal sticker on one of the Nizo cameras that states use "alkaline manganese batteries".

 

 

Isn't that strange. I remember first buying rechargeables for the Nizo 3056 because the battery box was marked NiCd with a recharge plug-in. Also, NiCd recharger (the Accu charger) was a Nizo accessory for the sound series and the Nizo Professional.

 

The box in my Nizo looked like this with the little plug in for the charger:

 

 

and the Accu charger for NiCd looks like this:

 

 

Plus you're the only person I've ever read on a webboard who had problems using NiMh in a sound Nizo. Maybe your cameras need servicing?

 

 

My battery holder does not have that small charging din like the one in your picture. Perhaps these Nizo cameras were made over a long enough period of time in which the camera design or manufacturing location changed.

[Tim Halloran]

the next three sentences that Santo did not list were.........

 

Yes, Trevor, what happened to those sentences?

 

 

What a sad clown.

 

Tim

[Guest santo]

If you're going to fly off the handle

 

Fly off what handle? Is there anything "frantic" in my posts? I don't think so... I'm just making sure the facts are correct here so that people aren't misled.

 

Santo, did you leave out the next three sentences from my post on purpose?

 

I make reference to them. I think their vagueness and strange pseudo-logic, point to the problem here. Exactly which camera is it that suggests "alkaline only" batteries, Alex? I can assure you, no Nizo 4080 has this written in its film compartment.

 

Santo, in no way did I make a final conclusion in the post you are refering to, I was simply reporting what I had tested.

 

You didn't make a final conclusion? Well gee whiz, why do you use capital letters and state: "so that leads me to conclude that using RECHARGEABLE ALKALINES ONLY be the way to go." ? you made your conclusion, leading a bunch of people towards crappy waste of money rechargeable alkalines potentially, when you were participant in a series of discussions which recognized that the sound Nizo series were designed for rechargeables of the era (AKA NiCd). And, in fact, suffer damage to their sensitive light meters when alkalines are used! What sort of perverse pleasure do you get screwing a bunch of people into wrecking their super 8 cameras with too much voltage, which their super 8 cameras (Nizo 3000 - 6000 series) were not designed for -- as is clearly indicated in the instruction manuals? Super 8 cameras with seperate 1.3v mercury batteries have different and more stable voltage batteries for reason, man! Light meters are sensitive to these things. Some extra safety electronics are required when using variable voltage Alkalines. For example, the Nikon R8 was a cheaper camera than the R10 not only because of its lens, but because cost cutting measures included a seperate light meter battery system for the R8, avoiding expensive extra electronics in its manufacture.

 

The Nizo battery holder has a imbossed message on the battery itself that states one should use 1.5 volt batteries. Nicads are not 1.5 volts, they are rated at 1.2 volts.

 

Sure. The battery holder from the silent Nizos which required a seperate 1.3 volt mercury cell for their light meter. Which is where your battery boxes are from.

 

There is also an internal sticker on one of the Nizo cameras that states use "alkaline manganese batteries".

My battery holder does not have that small charging din like the one in your picture.

 

Why don't you specify WHICH camera this is, Alex? Hmmm? Better yet, provide a photo illustration.

 

Oh, by the way, why not include a photo of your Menkel pin-registered super 8 camera?

 

You will be unable to provide either photograph, I bet.

 

Perhaps these Nizo cameras were made over a long enough period of time in which the camera design or manufacturing location changed.

 

No doubt that is true. Certainly they did not change the designation from 2056 to 4056 for nothing. Perhaps it is true that the 2056 was designed for Alkalines and their 1.5v designation for the function of their light meters as well as their motors? This would make them different from the 500 to 800 series silent cameras and the other 4 digit sound Nizos. It is possible. Why not be specific?

[Alessandro Machi]

I think the Alkaline rechargeables may be ideal for the NIzo cameras because even though they have 1.5 voltage, their current won't be as high as a NEW, NON-RECHARGEABLE alkaline.

 

These Nizo sound cameras could be susceptible to higher voltage and currents, so I haven't recommended a new non-rechargeable alkaline, only rechargeable alkalines. The caps were put in to differentiate between NEW NON-RECHARGEABLE alkalines versus RECHARGEABLE alkalines. If the camera requires 1.5 volts per battery, than a RECHARGEABLE alkaline becomes the obvious logical choice when compared to a NON-RECHARGEABLE alkaline because it will have less current AND a lower voltage output since NEW NON-RECHARGEABLE alkalines usually have 1.6 volts for a total of 9.6 volts when multipled by the six batteries whereas a RECHARGEABLE alkaline will be 1.5 volts.

 

My ideal choice would have been the NiMH rechargeables, but they didn't power EITHER Nizo camera, why, I don't know, it might have something to do with the NiMH's only being rated at 1.2 volts instead of the 1.5 volts as required by the camera. When multiplied by 6 batteries we're talking a voltage difference of 7.5 volts for the rechargeable NiMH's versus 9.0 for the rechargeable alkalines.

 

However the mystery is that the rechargeable alkalines and the rechargeable NiMH's both were reading around 8 volts (not under load) when I did my test and only the rechargeable alkalines ran the camera. As I stated in a previous post, my cameras are the Nizo 2056 and the Nizo 4056.

[Guest santo]

However the mystery is that the rechargeable alkalines and the rechargeable NiMH's both were reading around 8 volts (not under load) when I did my test and only the rechargeable alkalines ran the camera.

 

There's no mystery. NiMh are 1.35v newly charged and settle to a really flat 1.2v very quickly and remain there during most of their lifespan. Which is why they are rated as such. Meanwhile Alkalines and Rechargeable Alkalines are all over the place, varying between 1.5v to 1.1v during their power cycle.

 

Voltage is what's important with batteries in super 8 cameras and most all devices, not current. That's why you can drop in batteries rated at 2500 Mah or 1500 Mah and it doesn't make a difference.

[Alessandro Machi]

There's no mystery. NiMh are 1.35v newly charged and settle to a really flat 1.2v very quickly and remain there during most of their lifespan. Which is why they are rated as such. Meanwhile Alkalines and Rechargeable Alkalines are all over the place, varying between 1.5v to 1.1v during their power cycle.

 

Voltage is what's important with batteries in super 8 cameras and most all devices, not current. That's why you can drop in batteries rated at 2500 Mah or 1500 Mah and it doesn't make a difference.

 

Tastes great, less filling, tastes great, less filling.

 

One of my tests revealed that used but new alkalines thats tested at 8.71 volts per six batteries produced less slow motion speed than the NiMH's that were producing approximately 8.14 volts, so current does matter, and it matters more so the older our cameras get.

[Guest santo]

One of my tests revealed that used but new alkalines thats tested at 8.71 volts per six batteries produced less slow motion speed than the NiMH's that were producing approximately 8.14 volts, so current does matter, and it matters more so the older our cameras get.

 

If you have a camera spinning on the flecks of 30 year old oil there's going to be extra friction not to original specs. Amps are related to torque in electric motors, not speed. Your alkalines probably didn't have enough juice to create enough torque to outweigh the servicing your super 8 camera tested very likely needs pretty badly to work properly.

 

I don't know about you, but I only use cameras that work properly because they've had a few drops of oil on the moving metal parts in the past year or two anyway.

[Alessandro Machi]

If you have a camera spinning on the flecks of 30 year old oil there's going to be extra friction not to original specs. Amps are related to torque in electric motors, not speed. Your alkalines probably didn't have enough juice to create enough torque to outweigh the servicing your super 8 camera tested very likely needs pretty badly to work properly.

 

I don't know about you, but I only use cameras that work properly because they've had a few drops of oil on the moving metal parts in the past year or two anyway.

 

Your changing the discussion now. I pointed out that the NiMH's produced greater power to the camera because of the current, not the voltage.

[Guest santo]

Your changing the discussion now. I pointed out that the NiMH's produced greater power to the camera because of the current, not the voltage.

 

No. Just pointing out why you likely got the test results you did. Your camera, in my opinion, is obviously not working properly because it needs servicing -- causing an artificially high drain on the batteries under load -- and you're basing all your assumptions and tests on a faulty foundation and can't hope to come to any valid conclusions with regards to battery type and super 8 camera compatibility.

[Robert Hughes]

I think their vagueness and strange pseudo-logic, point to the problem here.

What else would you expect - they "turned on" their cameras, those degenerates.

[Alessandro Machi]

No. Just pointing out why you likely got the test results you did. Your camera, in my opinion, is obviously not working properly because it needs servicing -- causing an artificially high drain on the batteries under load -- and you're basing all your assumptions and tests on a faulty foundation and can't hope to come to any valid conclusions with regards to battery type and super 8 camera compatibility.

 

Irrespective of your speculation, unless one wants to make the claim that higher current will burn out the wiring or the motor, it's better to have the higher current, especially when one factors in that Kodachrome cartridges in general seem to pass the film through easier than other film formats and Kodachrome is no longer available. So even a properly lubed and cleaned camera still would require additional current to advance potentially dodgy film cartridges.

 

So whether it's because a camera might need to be relubed, or the film carts are tight, or both, the higher current still seems like a logical option.