kelly tippett Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 I'm going to be using 16mm in a feature with a lot more than one location. (hope cam tests go good) I've done some reg 8 years back, and spr 8mm, but this time I'm going to need to understand lighting for 16mm. And I can control the fstops on this film camera- that freedom rocks. Are there any good light meters (inexpensive ones) out there that someone might suggest? And if so where at? Any other tips are very much welcome. If it helps, it Looks to be that I'll be using black and white, 7266. But color is not ruled out at this point plus maybe the next project will be color. The kodak url info on this b&w film is below. http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/products...8.8.4&lc=en Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Bowerbank Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 The Sekonic Studio Deluxe is a good beginners meter: http://www.sekonic.com/products/products.asp?ID=109 Be sure to check it against a higher end meter before using though, just to make sure it's accurate. If you got the dough, get the Dual Master, it rocks, and it has a reflective meter as well :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thanasis Diamantopoulos Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 I'm going to be using 16mm in a feature with a lot more than one location. (hope cam tests go good) I've done some reg 8 years back, and spr 8mm, but this time I'm going to need to understand lighting for 16mm. And I can control the fstops on this film camera- that freedom rocks. Are there any good light meters (inexpensive ones) out there that someone might suggest? And if so where at? Any other tips are very much welcome. If it helps, it Looks to be that I'll be using black and white, 7266. But color is not ruled out at this point plus maybe the next project will be color. The kodak url info on this b&w film is below. http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/products...8.8.4&lc=en HI SECONIC is a very good exposure meter also minolta and gossen are also good enouph. Why are you shooting reversal film and not negatif? Reversal is good for first timers to learn exposure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Bowerbank Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 I didn't notice before, but yeah. If you're shooting a feature why are you shooting Reversal film? Shoot negative, your post-production workflow will thank you for it :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelly tippett Posted November 7, 2006 Author Share Posted November 7, 2006 I'm going to mini dv and from what i understand negative has more grain. I'll take any advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Bringas Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 so you're shooting a feature lenght film, with little to no understanding of lighting/film itself? I recommend you start by shooting some shorts.. I think there is a misunderstanding and that is probably what you are doing. In that case reversal is great to start with. It is great as a way to first get your hands dirty without having to fork out the money in post processing. BTW- negative does not have more grain. Negative is the standard when it comes to shooting anything of professional quality (unless you're going for the revearsal look of course.) Are you shooting super 16 or just 16? What camera? I typically like to over expose about a stop as I find this more accurately depicts the true rating of the stock. Give us more info about the project! Exteriors, Interiors, day/night? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelly tippett Posted November 8, 2006 Author Share Posted November 8, 2006 (edited) so you're shooting a feature lenght film... Give us more info about the project! Exteriors, Interiors, day/night? Plenty of night scenes and interiors. Walking along street passing store fronts. A bar scene. Office shots, int. houses, Halls, apartments, hospital, police station (mock, really just a building with offices). And some day shots- doesn't matter if sunny or cloudy. I want it to look as if it was shot with available light not just clean lighting. Since it is black and white i will not have to worry too much about yellows and blues and white balance. That's not the reason I'm shooting black and white but that is the plus side of b&W. I've shot shorts with super 8, video, and I'm a still photographer. I used to develope my own black and white pics before the digital age became more practical. Now i use the nikon d1 digital. This is the first time using 16mm, very very first feature. I don't have a light meter anymore. I don't really need one now. I know how my still camera lights. Honestly, i don't like a light meter. I know one is needed, but that don't mean i have to like it. So its been a while since i've used one and I'm wondering since it is 16mm do i need to do anyhting different than if i was lighting for 35mm. And honestly any input at all will help. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v724/asa...gAnch=imgAnch60 <br>35mm still Edited November 8, 2006 by kelly tippett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timHealy Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 I'm going to mini dv and from what i understand negative has more grain. I'll take any advice. all film has grain, but the effects of it can be used creatively and controlled (reduced or increased) by exposure choices, film stock, and processing. if you are shooting reversal you should work on understanding how the look of reversal will contribute to the film and story you are capturing compared to shooting on negative. if you lack the experience then shoot some tests and compare. basically you can reduce grain by shooting on negative film with slower asa ratings and overexposing one half to one full f stop. but always test to see what works best for you. best tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thanasis Diamantopoulos Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Plenty of night scenes and interiors. Walking along street passing store fronts. A bar scene. Office shots, int. houses, Halls, apartments, hospital, police station (mock, really just a building with offices). And some day shots- doesn't matter if sunny or cloudy. I want it to look as if it was shot with available light not just clean lighting. Since it is black and white i will not have to worry too much about yellows and blues and white balance. That's not the reason I'm shooting black and white but that is the plus side of b&W. I've shot shorts with super 8, video, and I'm a still photographer. I used to develope my own black and white pics before the digital age became more practical. Now i use the nikon d1 digital. This is the first time using 16mm, very very first feature. I don't have a light meter anymore. I don't really need one now. I know how my still camera lights. Honestly, i don't like a light meter. I know one is needed, but that don't mean i have to like it. So its been a while since i've used one and I'm wondering since it is 16mm do i need to do anyhting different than if i was lighting for 35mm. And honestly any input at all will help. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v724/asa...gAnch=imgAnch60 <br>35mm still Hi You can use your still camera but its beter to use a lightmeter and specialy a spot meter any way reversal as i was told is the best way to learn but negatif while you dont have a light meter is best to correct at the post the exposure mistakes. Have a nice shooting and enjoy it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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