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Stablizer Pressure Plate results are in.


John Adolfi

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As promised I said I would post my results on the German chrome stabilizer plate.

Here was the set up: I used two cameras 1.) Nikon R-10 2.) Elmo 1012XL-S

I set up the camera on a tripod and filmed outdoors. The subject was a close up of a film slate.

Each take was 9 seconds long with and without the plate using each of the two cameras.

I viewed the films on a white wall where the screne was about 18" across on a Bauer T-610. The projector as far as I know is fuctioning perfectly. As I played the film I turned the framing knob so as to see that frame line we normally do not like to see. My Wife was another witness to this experiment. Here is what we both agreed on. Yes there diffently was a noticable difference in picture stability.

After viewing it 3 times my Wife and I both thought there was an easy 50% reduction of line jitter. Was the jitter completely eliminated, no but the improvement was enough to make a believer out of me and as I continue to shoot super-8 this will most defineately be a tool I will consistantly use, enough said.

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Great to hear someone take the plunge and discover a new tool. I appreciate your response.

 

 

 

As promised I said I would post my results on the German chrome stabilizer plate. 

Here was the set up:  I used two cameras 1.) Nikon R-10 2.) Elmo 1012XL-S

I set up the camera on a tripod and filmed outdoors.  The subject was a close up of a film slate.

Each take was 9 seconds long with and without the plate using each of the two cameras.

I viewed the films on a white wall where the screne was about 18" across on a Bauer T-610.  The projector as far as I know is fuctioning perfectly.  As I played the film I turned the framing knob so as to see that frame line we normally do not like to see.  My Wife was another witness to this experiment.  Here is what we both agreed on.  Yes there diffently was a noticable difference in picture stability.

After viewing it 3 times my Wife and I both thought there was an easy 50% reduction of line jitter. Was the jitter completely eliminated, no but the improvement was enough to make a believer out of me and as I continue to shoot super-8 this will most defineately be a tool I will consistantly use, enough said.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Are we not supposed to use the pressure plate with a Nikon R-10 because it can damage some internal film gate component on the Nikon R-10?

 

It will not be damaged but there is a huge misfit (stop pin will not operate properly) and it may worsen the result.

 

I modified mine to allow the stop pin to operate properly and the result was amazingly good verified through a double exposure of a test image.

 

R

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Not bulletproof is that it could not help heavy jitter with the Provia 400F carts tested on more cams. However, bad PRO8 perfs may be one reason for this and it does not fit my Canon 1014 XLS very well. Causes occational jamming due to too tight tolerances.

 

Below you can check out a clip originally not intended for public use.

The jumpiness is a projector artifact. Used a non gate adjusted RUSS projector for trash transfer.

This is s double exposure with a slightly offset 2. take.

 

For steadiness examination the lines over lines steadiness will be the measure.

 

Severly underexposed but only made for own verification - not posting. Anyway here it is. It is a 5 sec clip repeated 4 times.

 

ftp://ftp.filmshooting.com/upload/video/mov/NR10s.mov 6+mb.

 

The mod made to allow full operation of the stop pin: Not actual plate but this is how it looks. Special steel colour marker is added to the stop pin prior to cart + PP insertion but no film should be in thie gate, The stop pin will "print" where it hits the plate and it is possible to make the mod. Ideally only a narrow slot or 2 holes (there are 2 pins - one for FW and one for RW operation) should/could have been made but I removed this entire section to ensure compability.

 

PP_mod.jpg

 

R

Edited by S8 Booster
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