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Framing chart


Vincent Sweeney

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Can someone recommend a source for a cheap chart? I've tried to find one that was carried by one of the smaller camera shops but I can't remember who it was now. Searches have come up negative. I know filmtools and markertek has a fine selection but was hoping for the cheaper laminated one I recently saw. Was it SMS possibly? Their site shows no charts that I could find.

 

Maybe a downloadable, printable one would work for now.

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We've talked about this before, so try a search. It's easy to create and print your own chart(s). As long as you know the aspect ratios, or even better yet the precise film dimensions, you can draft it yourself in nearly any text or graphics program. Scale it to fill a standard sheet of paper for ease in shooting.

 

Or, better yet -- line up your camera perpendicular to a wall and while looking through the viewfinder, have an assistant help you mark one off on posterboard, with tape. Shoot this chart at the head of the first roll and you're guaranteed a reference for the framing you see in the viewfinder.

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We've talked about this before, so try a search. It's easy to create and print your own chart(s). As long as you know the aspect ratios, or even better yet the precise film dimensions, you can draft it yourself in nearly any text or graphics program. Scale it to fill a standard sheet of paper for ease in shooting.

 

Or, better yet -- line up your camera perpendicular to a wall and while looking through the viewfinder, have an assistant help you mark one off on posterboard, with tape. Shoot this chart at the head of the first roll and you're guaranteed a reference for the framing you see in the viewfinder.

 

You can do it easily without an assistant, I figured out. Line up like that to a wall, it doesn't really matter if you're perfectly perpendicular or anything. Move in near the close-focus (you have to be close for this to work well) of whatever lens you're on and focus on the wall. Open up full wide. Then shine a bright light from inside the viewfinder. It will project the groundglass markings on the wall for you to trace and add pointers-to.

Edited by Chris Keth
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You can do it easily without an assistant, I figured out. Line up like that to a wall, it doesn't really matter if you're perfectly perpendicular or anything. Move in near the close-focus (you have to be close for this to work well) of whatever lens you're on and focus on the wall. Open up full wide. Then shine a bright light from inside the viewfinder. It will project the groundglass markings on the wall for you to trace and add pointers-to.

 

Good idea, although I'd say it does matter if you're not perpendicular. If the "projection" is not perfectly square to the wall you'd be creating a chart that's keystoned.

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Good idea, although I'd say it does matter if you're not perpendicular. If the "projection" is not perfectly square to the wall you'd be creating a chart that's keystoned.

 

True, but it is exactly offset by the perspective of the viewpoint of the lens. From the viewpoint of the camera, the markings will always be perfect and square. Since the lines are coming from the groundglass itself, they can't help but perfectly coincide with them as you look through the finder.

 

It's easier to see then to explain. Try it with an SLR if you have one handy. It's exactly like the wildly distorted skulls in Bosch paintings. The idea is that they looked correct from the very off-axis viewpoint the painting was usually viewed from.

Edited by Chris Keth
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We've talked about this before, so try a search. It's easy to create and print your own chart(s). As long as you know the aspect ratios, or even better yet the precise film dimensions, you can draft it yourself in nearly any text or graphics program. Scale it to fill a standard sheet of paper for ease in shooting.

 

Or, better yet -- line up your camera perpendicular to a wall and while looking through the viewfinder, have an assistant help you mark one off on posterboard, with tape. Shoot this chart at the head of the first roll and you're guaranteed a reference for the framing you see in the viewfinder.

 

Thank you for responding but I did a search and I am aware of home test methods but for various reasons I need actual printed charts with known values.

 

 

Forum Admin: Sorry about the double post, I have no idea why that happened.

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You can do it easily without an assistant, I figured out. Line up like that to a wall, it doesn't really matter if you're perfectly perpendicular or anything. Move in near the close-focus (you have to be close for this to work well) of whatever lens you're on and focus on the wall. Open up full wide. Then shine a bright light from inside the viewfinder. It will project the groundglass markings on the wall for you to trace and add pointers-to.

 

We use to do something very similar to what you suggest. Except that first we put some SMPTE projector registration neg. in the gate and shined a light thru it and marked the corners and cross hair on the wall. Then we would project the light thru the ground glass to confirm alignment of it to the gate. Your method is fine if you are sure that the ground glass is in alignment to the gate to start with. This method is also handy when aligning up two cameras on a beam splitter 3D rig.

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True, but it is exactly offset by the perspective of the viewpoint of the lens. From the viewpoint of the camera, the markings will always be perfect and square. Since the lines are coming from the groundglass itself, they can't help but perfectly coincide with them as you look through the finder.

 

True, but I was thinking about making a chart that you could take with you to use again and again...

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Thank you for responding but I did a search and I am aware of home test methods but for various reasons I need actual printed charts with known values.

 

That's what I was trying to say-- with the known values available in the American Cinematographer Manual, Samuelson's Hands-On Manual and other places you can print it yourself. I've done it this way lots of times and never had any problems.

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We use to do something very similar to what you suggest. Except that first we put some SMPTE projector registration neg. in the gate and shined a light thru it and marked the corners and cross hair on the wall. Then we would project the light thru the ground glass to confirm alignment of it to the gate. Your method is fine if you are sure that the ground glass is in alignment to the gate to start with. This method is also handy when aligning up two cameras on a beam splitter 3D rig.

 

Isn't half the point of a framing chart to note and record any slight difference in that regustration between the groundglass and the negative?

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