DIY: film processing: reversal: color

[Guest Glen Alexander]

i didn't see any 16mm poking around the fuji site

 

http://www.fujifilm.com/products/professio...100f/index.html

 

http://www.fujifilm.com/products/professio..._100/index.html

 

http://www.fujifilm.com/products/professio...100f/index.html

 

the only positive color cinematic film are these

 

F-CP TYPE3510

ETERNA-CP TYPE3513DI

ETERNA-CP 3521XD

[Richard Tuohy]

i didn't see any 16mm poking around the fuji site

 

http://www.fujifilm.com/products/professio...100f/index.html

 

http://www.fujifilm.com/products/professio..._100/index.html

 

http://www.fujifilm.com/products/professio...100f/index.html

 

the only positive color cinematic film are these

 

F-CP TYPE3510

ETERNA-CP TYPE3513DI

ETERNA-CP 3521XD

 

In fact I don't think Fuji sell ANY colour reversal film in 16mm or 35mm, just long length 35mm still film. However it is available in 16mm from various sources like: http://www.wittner-kinotechnik.de/katalog/...mm/16_filmm.php

They get unperforated 35mm stock slit and perforated into 16mm by a company in Germany.

[Chris Keth]

how sensitive? how much thermal mass is needed?

 

I've done E6 once and Kodak's recommendation is to keep both developers within one half degree of 100.4 degrees. The other baths can be anywhere from 95 to 104. All temperatures are in Fahrenheit.

[Aapo Lettinen]

I have done some E6 work with Tetenal kit using 7285 and Lomo tank.

I wasn't very precise during processing but I would say that about 2-3 ºC varies

in temperature can be definetely seen on film.

 

I think it's mostly an issue when you try to match different rolls together, it is very hard to keep

the process fully repeatable all the time.

And wet film can be scratched very easily, you have to be very precise when handling the film after prosessing.

 

I think it's quite impossible to get best possible results in the conditions you mentioned. But if you want, go for it.

[Guest Glen Alexander]

i'll probably shoot 35mm to do tests and then rip with the long rolls since the stock doesn't seem to have a lot of latitude.

 

those prices in Euro posted are a complete ripoff 200E for 100ft.

 

where can you buy the 3step kit near Paris?

[Chris Keth]

Why don't you just store your exposed negative until it can be processed properly and uniformly from roll-to-roll? It's not the best idea to project your originals as dailies, anyway. It just invites scratches.

[Aapo Lettinen]

...the stock doesn't seem to have a lot of latitude.

I don't know any reversal stock with tonal range more than 6 stops.

 

How about using Kodak Ektachrome? (5285)

It is much more easier to get in big rolls and it is

factory perforated to B&H.

 

 

edit. and it is also cheaper. and you can also get short ends of it.

http://www.tapesuperstore.com/ek52core.html

Edited November 21, 2008 by aapo lettinen

[Guest Glen Alexander]

Why don't you just store your exposed negative until it can be processed properly and uniformly from roll-to-roll? It's not the best idea to project your originals as dailies, anyway. It just invites scratches.

 

 

oh, i meant SLR 35mm rolls to develop in the field. i tend to shoot only at sunrise and sunset, so i want to shoot SLR in the morning, process, shoot cinema reels at sunset.

[Guest Glen Alexander]

I don't know any reversal stock with tonal range more than 6 stops.

 

How about using Kodak Ektachrome? (5285)

It is much more easier to get in big rolls and it is

factory perforated to B&H.

 

 

edit. and it is also cheaper. and you can also get short ends of it.

http://www.tapesuperstore.com/ek52core.html

 

well i could but i need the speed of the fuji provia 400x.

[jake harris]

I don't know yet but think of something Karl you're a smart guy.

 

...string, balloon, gun. done.

[K Borowski]

...string, balloon, gun. done.

 

Yeah?