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aapo lettinen

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  1. those bc183's are still sold, at least on ebay. replacement diode and cap should be easy to find when having the values nailed down
  2. it's a blown up capacitor, a broken zener diode and a fried transistor but nothing else broken? you should be able to get replacements relatively easily if getting the capacitor and diode exact values and a close enough replacement for the bc183 npn transistor if the original ones cannot be found anymore
  3. I got a lot of footage transferred to hd prores on Millenium2 some years ago by ReelOne. It is a great crt scanner and I remember Anssi said that it is possible to get 4k out of it by using a external recorder, the Cintel engineer who regularly serviced the machine had listed the adjustments needed for this (some ad clients tended to do transfers this way by bringing their own recorder. the scanner was normally set for hd transfers) . It is a great scanner color wise and the texture is quite unique compared to the solid state ccd/cmos scanners... it reproduces the grain texture very differently and you immediately see it. more like a painterly and blended grain compared to the razor sharp grain texture on other solid state scanners
  4. I cla the lower price cameras by myself because I need to be able to repair them in field conditions if needed. much easier that way though it might be required to purchase two camera bodies to get spare parts then. one can get great deals on Russian gear if having time to wait for the best deals. generally the straight viewfinder side latch models with the 6v rheostat motors are the way to go if wanting to get the most affordable and portable solution (though a 15epss to 24v wild motor modified Konvas 1M is pretty neat for mos shooting and has the orientable finder)
  5. I have lots of use for them! sent email
  6. my cheapest Konvas was 50 euros. The cheapest lens was something like 50 or 60 euros I think. They need some cla of course before one can use them but for such a low cost camera I am happy to take risks and cla them by myself. has worked fine so far 🙂
  7. I purchased mine something like 10 years ago and I think I shot one or two rolls with it total. Purchased a Konvas later and shot thousands of feets with it. The Lomokino is a cool toy but it was not very useful even for art projects. One can hand crank a Konvas much more easily and get very usable results even for cinema release of the camera is properly used and maintained. The Lomokino is more like, look how cool new toy I have, then getting bored to it and putting it into storage forgetting it even existed. It is a nice toy but not a real camera by my opinion and one could get real cameras with almost the same price
  8. there is cheap hdmi microscope cameras on ebay which can also be useful for experiments. I believe the gopro could be usable if you get the optics right so that you get full ground glass image to the sensor instead of a tiny image with lots of black area on sides. it can be challenging to find sensitive enough but at the same time small and cheap cameras with proper optics for this use. most cheap cameras are so noisy that it is hard to get good enough image out of them at such low light levels (which you get from the ground glass) to see any focus issues etc. and even framing can be hard with some of them
  9. A simpler option might be to hack the rec button itself on that remote controller so that you don't have to emulate the communication protocol but just need a circuit which closes the button contacts momentarily when starting or stopping. Looks ugly but way easier to make
  10. So you should start by finding a recorder with very simple and easily hackable wired remote button. Then continuing figuring out how to close the hacked button contacts with the camera. You may want to have the arduino between these if you need latching functions for example the camera contacts staying closed the whole take converted to simulated single short button push when starting or stopping the recording on the audio recorder and possibly the additional bleep sound on both start and stop but not in the middle of takes
  11. Sound like a fun project! If you can find a audio recorder with very simple single button cable remote you can probably hack it pretty easily . how the cameras remote port works, does it just close contacts or does it output any signal? If it just closes contacts then it should be a bit easier to start. One option for basic audio sync would be to just create some kind of bleeper marker system to the camera which outputs short beep sound when you start or stop the camera. Just like the 16 and 35 movie cameras and even digital cameras like arri can do Depending on the system you may need some very simple and easy arduino programming. That is fun and easy and we can help with simple programs if needed
  12. just purchase a larger lot of the old ones and sort them out to find the usable ones. the old ones are cheap https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=kodak+wratten+gelatin+filter&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=kodak+gelatin+filter&_osacat=0
  13. gelatin filter lots tend to pop up in eBay every now and then. they are pretty cheap when purchased this way (old stock or ones with small portion cut out of them previously) . I purchased all the gelatins I'll ever need this way couple of years ago, I think I got 30 or 40 or something for the same price than one new costs
  14. All krasnogorsks have a beamsplitter in the viewfinder optics next to the groundglass which splits some of the light to the light meter cell of the built in meter. One can use this beamsplitter for getting the image to the video tap, I tested this some 10 years ago and it works though one needs additional prism to get enough room for the tap to install it. But the beamsplitter is already there because the original internal exposure meter uses it
  15. So the low budget is probably faster route but you most likely will never end up in the highest level productions in your career. As long as you are happy and can manage financially it does not matter much if you shoot sub 3mil movies instead of the 50+ mil ones
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