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It is possible to convert the normal rheostat motors to crystal sync as well but that is lots of mechanical work so it makes the conversion a bit expensive and time consuming (I was developing a conversion like this last year and finished making the plans and everything but abandoned the project because no one was interested in it and it would have been thus too risky to start to order prototype circuit boards etc. for it if never getting any money back from the project)

Don't know though if venice has internal pulldown option to ruin the image but it does not sound practical at all (because you would lose all the benefits of the framerate alteration if playing back the shot at normal speed doing in camera pulldown. That would be just a stupid design flaw and you should just alter the shutter angle instead to get the same effect without the pulldown artifacts)

I don't know any current camera which would do pulldown processing in this type of situation. They will just store the captured image frames as is an mark the metadata info differently to the file. So for example you will get the same frames shot at 100fps sensor framerate whether the camera stores them to a "50fps" file or a "24fps" file. The files differ in that the 24fps file is marked as 24fps and the 50fps file marked as 50fps so that one knows in playback how it is played "correctly". If you would change the metadata later to say that the clip is now "25fps" it would not change the captu

it can become even weirder if one has flickering lights on different phases of the input power. it can fool flicker reduction and cause other interesting effects :) making a high speed pulse width modulation circuit to drive leds or tungsten lights is relatively simple. if using very high frequencies or high voltages it would become trickier but for example having a 12v light run at 50kHz or 100kHz at, say, 200w output is pretty easy to build from scratch (not that there would not be any eBay solution for this but just saying that it is easy to design a circuit like this from scra

don't know about documentation but this kind of Russian mirror shutter cameras (kiev16u is another example) are especially sensitive to the shutter's angle wormgear lubrication. you will notice it first and then the pulldown claw system. those are easy to get access to by just taking off the front of the camera (4 screws under the glued-on front cover) . the problematic ones are all the other mechanics which necessitate removing the whole "main plate" from the film chamber to get access to the rest of the mechanics. there is lots of gears and slide bearings inside which may not keep the lubric

the USSR stuff is totally fine as long as you are able to service them by yourself. The Bolexes are definitely more reliable but the K-cameras are pretty OK as long as they are very regularly serviced and lubricated. The M42 mount does not really solve any problems unless you want to shoot exclusively extreme telephoto shots like 400mm lenses and such. btw you can fit those lenses on Bolex very easily if needed. Personally I would take two of the Kransnogorsk cameras if wanting to replace a Bolex with them. this way you can wait for the film tests to come back after servicing them

I like to treat everything under -3 or 3.5 stops on film "potentially unusable so considered black even if there is information" . all Vision stocks including the 19. but that is a matter of personal taste based on experienced grain and flattening contrast on darkest tones so it is not scientific in any way. On the highlight side, it depends on the scanner you use and how much time you have to tweak it in scanning to get the best possible results. It has much more dynamic on the highlight side than 6 stops though. With a pretty good average scanner it should be more than 10 stops in any case (

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Nice to hear that people love to still use the Krasnogorsk cameras! I kind of abandoned all the Krasnogorsk crystal motor designs because it is too much mechanical work to adapt the electric motor to work with the cameras. Additionally the cameras need a complete overhaul to be able to work with any electric motor system and even if serviced, they are still mechanically unsuitable for running very large amounts of film through (that is just my opinion but for example the bearings of the camera need constant care if you are intending to shoot thousands of feets of film with it in a short p

if you want to do pinhole stuff on a PL camera it should be possible to purchase laser cut pinhole plates separately and glue or tape them to inexpensive PL adapters or various types of extension tubes (PL, M42, EF or other). https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=pinhole+laser&_sacat=0&_sop=15

the physical dimensions of the EF mount prevent installing it inside the PL mount deep enough to enable infinity focusing. If shooting macro stuff, almost anything could be done however. You can for example attach the taking lens to the PL adapter with tape or glue if that is the most practical way to do it. the lens just does not focus very far, probably only to couple of inches or so. You can get cheap macro bellows in M42 mount and attach them to PL camera using a simple and affordable M42 to PL adapter (the RafCamera ones or the Chinese ones for example) . You can use M42 extension tu

the described job is basically taking the sensor, the physical body and the optical parts from the original F35 and making most if not all of the camera electronics by yourself from ground up. Similarly demanding than purchasing a plain image sensor from Mouser and building your own digital cinema camera from it doing all the control and signal processing electronics and custom software by yourself. This is probably not a good solution for any cinematography related use... just wanted to say that it is possible and how it can roughly be done if one is experienced enough and has tons of spare t

3ccd tends to have different, more efficient way to handle colour separation (colour-reflecting dicroic coatings instead of traditional substractive filters) so if done well it should be even more efficient than the traditional single-chip system using "normal" filters. I have understood that the A/D conversion is the most challenging part on the CCD cameras. Is that F35 sensor handling anything on chip level or is the conversion external like in the traditional CCD? it should be theoretically possible to hack a sensor if having the documentation for it but it is extremely demanding

I would check the camera with a dummy roll of film to hear if there is any problem with the film transport or possible magazines. The lens should be checked to have functional focusing and aperture. the aperture checked for possible oil on the blades (one can manage with oily iris on a lens but it can show in reflections pretty easily so one should expect more flaring and uglier flares then) . If the camera is affordable you should look for stuff which is outright broken or missing or expensive to repair. you may need to arrange a CLA for the camera anyway before you use it for serious fi

I would try Resolve for the correction. or if wanting to use fcpx you could maybe make a correction LUT in Resolve for just the flicker removal and import it then to the FCPX and keyframe it there